stinky

ive got one that looks identical to that...no problems so far. I've very happy with it for the price. There really isnt too much that i can see going wrong with it anyway.

I've built two 3" systems with a single Ultraflo and both sound good. One was an 87t z31 and the other is Ant's 280zxt. I also made a 3" system for my 88t z31 with an extra Ultraflo where the cat usually goes. The car sounds real quiet (sleeper) but the exhaust flows just as good as any 3" could. I would also recommend the Ultraflo. Can't beat the sound/performance/price.

Just use the stock z32 ecu. With the purchase of a $180 emulator and a cheap consult connector ($50 i think) you can have a basically fully programmable ecu. That is unless you want a map based system for some reason.

Pin 9- is the start signal. Might not be a bad idea to hook it up for better starts. Pin 15- dont think you need it. pin 16- fuel temp..dont need it pin 21 - knock sensor. dont need it pin 22- ac condensor - probably used to kick in high idle - dont really need it pin 23- CHTS (cylinder head temp sensor) you NEED this one pin 29- speed sensor. use it if you have the right speedo and want the afm clean function to work pin 115- heater power source for NA o2 sensor. Not used on the turbo ecu. If the E-manage has some way to modify the timing then it might work. The problem with most piggyback systems is that they alter the afm signal to the ecu. That in turn changes where the ecu goes on the fuel and timing maps. It's great because you can adjust for larger injectors but it sucks in that your timing is way off from stock and you ahve to somehow compensate.

Interesting....So when your car goes in to closed loop does the voltage fluctuate as it should including going below .3v or does it always stay above .3v like mine does? Also, I remember looking real quick and on my Z31 there is no wire in for pin 115.

I'm aware of that. My problem is that with the sensor disconnected the ecu still has .3v coming from pin 24 (should be input pin from o2 sensor). With the o2 sensor plugged in it does sweep back and forth but it never goes below .3v which i know is not correct because I'm watching my AFR on my wideband and it goes extremely lean. With the turbo ecu connected all is well.

I believe the titania sensor will work just fine. From what I can see in the wiring diagrams of my 300zx and my experience with my 280zxt z31 ecu conversion the nissan sensor uses a 12v supply, ground, and the signal wire to the ecu. Just hook up a switched 12v signal to the red wire, ground the white wire, and run the black wire to pin 24 on the ecu. You should be all set.

I'm wiring in a chipped na ecu into a 280zxt and have hit a bit of a snag. I'm just wondering if any of you guys have any experience with this or might have some specific ideas about this problem. I'm tired and I dont want to retype everything so here is a paste.... With an NA ecu in the 280 the af guage will read .3v with no O2 sensor. That is to say the .3v is coming out of the ecu at pin 24. Now with the o2 sensor connected, the guage will swing back and forth with the mixture but it never goes below .3v on the guage. I’ve verified the outputs with a voltmeter so I know its not the guage. Now if I plug in my buddies turbo ecu everything is great. The meter goes full lean and full rich and it acts as it should. I would say that this is all caused by the ecu but it makes no sense because I can plug the na ecu in to my 300zx (which is using the identical sensor) and it reads as it should. So anyway I’m stumped. I’m going to have to check the wiring on my 300 to see if anything is obviously different. The only codes I get on the ecu when on the 280 is fuel pump (I’m not using pin 108 and fuel temp sensor (not used or required). It’s got to be something to do with the wiring. Any ideas?

Do some thorough searching on z31.com. There is a lot of information contained there including a writeup on the conversion.

You might consider using a large dynomax ultraflo muffler. They are straight through, no baffles. I just welded up a full mandrel bent 3" exhaust with a large ultraflo on the back for a 280zxt I'm working on and it sounds nice. It idles with a nice growl but not loud. Havent had a chance to take it on the road yet but a buddy with a 300zx has the same setup and its not that loud at all. Certainly not a ricey sound. If you really want it to be quiet you can do like I did on my z31 and use two straight throughs. I have 14" where the cat would normally go and a 19" in the stock location. My electric fan makes more noise at idle than my exhaust. Under load it sounds nice but not at all loud. Its more of a whoosh than anything else.

I'd try plugging at it a little longer. Keep in mind that you will have to do the same thing with the haltech. I just went through the same task myself. I had a little extra fun because the car I did it to was an NA which has different wiring than the turbo. I would suggest starting with the most important thing, the CAS. You said you were'nt getting any spark but I didnt see if you mentioned getting the injectors to fire. When you manually turn the CAS do you hear them clicking? If thats working then its just a matter of getting the coil wires right and figuring out what went wrong with the fuel pump. Also, if you need the FSM for the z31 you can download a few at the following address thanks to THE BIG ONE from z31.com. http://tboz.no-ip.com:10000/images/Nissan%20300ZX%20FSM%20%5b84-86%5d/