AnTmanS130T

I have a similar problem that sounds like a massive air leak or the actual blow off valve leaking ( Type Crap ) blow off valve.. I tried to feel for it leak on the dyno and couldn't really feel it.. I am going to try and move my boost signal line around as if it makes any difference. I am thinking it could also be turbo surge from a weak wastegate actuator ( So I will soon put the heavy duty one on) If you find out what it is or anyone has any idea .. please post it. I am thinking it could also be the blow off valve leaking. I've had many people tell me they have had bad type-s b.o.v. even when they were new.

Well today was the day I put the car on the dyno. I will update the thread when I have time to scan all 5 pulls. The best results out of all the runs were 270rwhp / 322 ft lbs torque.(All pulls were preformed in 4th gear) Just curious what everyone thinks of the results .. I am pretty happy with many mods still available and more tuning to do. Air fuel was about 11.53 straight across. Timing at idle is 20 degrees and in boost about 16-17 degrees. (All runs ranged from 15-17 lbs ) Note: All runs were on 93 octane. Mods: Rebuilt 83 turbo motor bored out .20 over with new pistons P90a head rebuilt with 3 angle valve job NPR intercooler with 2.25 mandrel bent hotside piping / 2.5 inch coldside Greddy type-s (Junk) blow off valve ACT heavy duty pressure plate w / modified disk (T-5 Transmission) Garret T3/T4 hybrid turbo (57 trim compressor , .63 A/R with stage 3 exhaust) 3 inch mandrel downpipe / 3 inch straight through piping with Dynomax straight through muffler 8.5 mm MSD plug wires Ngk bpr7es11 plugs Crane performance coil 89 turbo z31 ecu Bosch 420cc injectors Walbro 255lph fuel pump 75' intake manifold w/ 60mm throttle body 93 Cobra AFM with K&N cone filter - I think this is all of it.

Sounds like compressor surge.. that extra air is being pushed on your turbine wheel causing it to put a lot of wear on it and slow it down. Buy a b.o.v. and weld it on the cold side pipe. The only thing that is going to happen is the life of your turbo will decrease.

No I do not have any clearance issues nor rubbing. That route works just fine to be honest with you That was an older pic when the motor was just put in and we still had a ways to go. It is actually pretty nice and clutterless now. Soon it will be running full potential ...

Thanks for your help. Did you use windshield whiper fluid or 100% methanol with purified water for all this? Sorry for all the questions but it seems like you made a pretty nice kit

The bottom tabs were grinded off. The intercooler sits almost exactly where the top of the lips starts. Sorry for the blurry pic but I hope that helps. I have a bunch of other pics if you have AIM or Yahoo hit me up AIM / Hallucinationed1 and Yahoo / ant_feelgud I can help you out with any info you need or more pictures.

Here is a picture of the beam. This is plenty sturdy especially if you have some nice couplings and T-bolt clamps that can be purchased from your local Napa auto part store.

As you can see I just used the mount that is on the top of the intercooler and ran a bracked from there to the actual car. I also put a metal beam under the intercooler so it sits it up a little higher than the lip in case of running into anything such as a curb so it will just damage the lip and not smash the intercooler. I drilled a hole on each side of the beam and then attached it to something underneath.

Thanks for the good info. If you don't mind me asking, where did you purchase your parts for the kit at?

A good friend of mine converted his Arc welder into a Tig. It works great on many things especially exhaust piping / intercooler stuff. I would say go that route and be happy =-)

Has anyone had any good experiences with a certain home made kit, what method did you use as far as controlling the injection, and how were the gains? Any information appreciated. I am just want to see who has done what and experienced what kit / ways work better than others.

I have the large NPR on my 82' ZX. You do not have to cut any supports. I ended up cutting off the end tanks and repositioning them a little and welded it back on with a tig welder. The front lip will have to be cut away quite a bit until it fits in there nice. I ran my pipe just like ratedZ did and have had no problems. I am using a 90" silicone elbow off the turbo compressor side and Vibrant couplings all around. The cold side pipe will pretty much be straight on when you reposition the end tanks. Here is a pic when it was finished and welded. Of course I made it look nice but that's the easy part. Goodluck

I know of a few local guys running the alky control systems. I live in Tampa and hear nothing but good about these kits. I was looking into the kits a while ago, undecided.. if I had the money I would go with the alky control kit but for now I think I will just make my own kit. Any tips or recommendations for any specific DIY kits or the best way to do things?

I had a similiar problem with my z31 ecu setup. Everytime I would come to a stop the car would die. Don't forget that the z31 base idle timing is different than the 280's. I put my base idle at 20 degrees and raised my idle to about 900-1000. Now it runs great without any idle / shutting off issues.

Very nice! I am trying to figure out how you set up this external, I am trying to figure out how I will be doing mine. Right now my turbo is internally gated and I was thinking about buying the block off flange and cut into the manifold but the only room seems to be the number 6 runner which wont vent all the cylinder pressure. Some people say use the existing internal wastegate hole and just port match it to the external wastegate port size. From the looks was this turbo internal and you used the block off flange or what? Any info appreciated.

Just so everyone knows the motor probably has 4,000 miles on it. It's a 83 turbo motor with a 83 hydraulic p90a head. I have heard good things about seafoam and have a few friends that run it without any problems. I am going to pull the valve cover off and make sure everything is okay and torqued down properly. Change the oil and possible do a seafoam treatment just to see if this ticking goes away. I have ran engine flush in the motor that was in the car before ( non turbo L28 and it was fine. I am just getting other peoples input on things. This motor has a good ammount of money into it as well as a nice new turbo. I rather take precautions then to have a nightmare..

Well I tried searching and really didn't find much out. Tomorrow I want to change the oil ( It's due, and I also believe I have a lifter ticking) I am just thinking it's gummed up. The motor / head wasn't rebuilt long ago. I pulled the plugs and put a light up to each cylinder trying to see the pistons, it appears their is quite a bit of buildup. What type of engine flush has anyone used that parts stores usually stock? Any luck with a certain type / problems that were noticed? I am just trying to get an insight on this. I have not run Synthetic oil in the motor at all, been debating whether or not to. I run synthetic in the r200 diff and BW T-5 tranny though.

Where is the dumb tube located? All I can see is how it comes out of the exhaust manifold.. Do you have any problems at all coming off of runner 6? I wouldn't mind doing mine like that but I was told to do it as close as possible to the turbo inlet.

Thanks. If anyone has any good pictures, please post them.

I was told that the wastegate being as close as possible to the turbo inlet will allow for all cylinders to vent instead of venting one or two with it being placed anywhere on the manifold, Is this true at all? Does anyone have any pictures of their external wastegate setup? How did you set it all up as far as drilling in the manifold etc? Is there any advantage of dumping the external wastegate back into the downpipe or venting it to the ground (Atmosphere?) Any help appreciated!

I am running a Garrett T3/TO4E Hybrid, 57 trim compressor .63 a/r with a stage 3 wheel. Stock exhaust manifold that has been ceramic coated inside and out (2,300 degrees) Also, I have a one inch spacer on the exhaust manifold flange where the turbo bolts up to. It is not needed but it doesn't touch at all and sets the turbo a little further out.

I am also planning on going external soon. Tial would be my choice of course. I understand the spring pressures / max boost fine, what I do not understand is what does a larger MM do? MM meaning the actual hole size on the external gate? A smaller one with the same spring pressure as a larger one does what?

Damn those look SWEET! Nice tires too. What car is this going on? Is this just a 4 bolt 114.3 offset? I wonder if they would work on a 280zx 81-83. I think they are a bit wide though - lol. Btw what type of rims are those?

Anyone have anything else to add? I don't know if Stinky has figured it out or not yet but if anyone else has any info or suggestions post up!