240playtoy

Depending on your engine year, you'll have to get either your ECU programmed or a PROM burned for a manual transmission. The connector for the auto and manual tranny are different. You'll need to get one for a manual tranny, I got mine from GM, I remember it being nearly $30.... bastards. TPI Parts on ebay has a lot of connectors that fit LT1's, I got a new '93 PROM from them.

Speedhut gave me a call and asked for the 0-160 speedo pictures for the 240z. They have them and I now have their gauge faces.

The people from Speedhut called me ~a week ago and asked me to send them pictures of the 0-160 Speedo. So I did and they've sent me my faces. I assume all is order then now.

By wire, I mean a wire coming from that 4th post on the coil.

my '93 LT1 also has the wire, along with something that lookes like a capacitor added in line on it's way to one of the harness connectors. But my tach cuts out when it approaches 3000 rpm. (have the 15k equivalent in line)

Thanks for the help guys. Off to get a new booster. I hope the pics help others figure out if they're missing their reaction disk. Maybe my Christmas present will be a 240z that will stop.

I'm wondering how boned I am here. I've searched and found tons of articles on the reaction disk slipping out and causing brakes to be either "on or off" (no real stopping power then locking up of the wheels). I've bled the living hell out of my lines after installing a 280zx master and 4x4 and 240sx calipers (living hells = > a gallon of brake fluid). So, I took my master off my booster and took a couple pictures. I think it appears I'm missing the reaction disk, but I have trouble visualizing the descriptions from previous postings. here's the plunger that presses on the MC. I'm guessing the inner ring is left from the reaction disk... or I may be dumb... both are possibilities. here's the inside of the booster. Again, I'm guessing I'm not supposed to see that metal ring there in the middle. So, dissassembly or new booster?? The brakes are the last thing keeping me off the road. And on the road is where I reeeeeeeaaaalllllllllllllllly want to be.

I got the Euro 7" 's from VB to replace the crap that put out less light on high as a small BBQ grill fire. Very nice, fit w/ no problem except the fact that my factory wiring was wrong for them. It was also wrong for the headlights that I was replacing.... thus the pitiful output. Good luck w/ your purchases and here's to blinding headlights

I was just curious what you guys (LT1 and LS1 swappers) had done for locations of SES lights and other assorted switches needed to run various parts of your cars. I was curious if anyone had used the old choke area for them. Here's what I came up with (71 240z '93 LT1 T-56)

I purchased this part.... yeah, it doesn't fit the stock harness of a 71 240z at all. granted the female ends that are to connect to the headlights would fit the headlight, it cannot be put into the headlight bucket w/o cutting the wiring and extending it. The ends for hooking to the headlight harness don't fit either. I ended up spending 1-2 hrs cutting, soldering and figuring out how to wire the thing properly. Ended up using the stock connectors from the harness and plugging the original headlight leads back into it. As for the reversing of the polarity, I wondered if that was why my old "high beams" were weaker than most cars lows. It wasn't a direct wire to wire ordeal, lots of testing w/ the multimeter to make sure my headlights lit up nice and bright.

I found a VATS bypass module on ebay. bakerelectronicmakes them and other items that are useful. The thing works great and is less than $30. You just give the thing 12V power and hook the 3rd wire to your fuel enable wire and voila, cheap easy VATS bypass. Much cheaper than buying the module and it's tiny too. May not be cheaper than reprogramming your computer, but if you don't have any need to reprogram other than VATS, don't have to worry about package deliverers drop kicking your PCM. They've got them for LT1's and LS1's. (I've got a 93 LT1).

not running power steering, "gutting" the pump like Tim240. That's the plan at least. So many things, so little time. Research, conferences, classes.... damn a grad student life. -Andrew

Bartman, it looks like you might have to rotate your MAF around. The current location of the hookup might just clear the coil in its location. If you were to put the coil back in the "original" location, it'd stick about ~1.5" further out, but might keep you from having to readjust your intake. If you look at the top down picture, the lip of the intake and intake elbow are just on the other side of the hose clamps. That's about an inch further out than it was originally to allow the coil to be placed in its new location.

Alright, here we go. It's a little hard to see the lines, I was retarded and should have put a piece of paper behind the pieces. here's a top view. It would seem I could relocate my coil to its original location w/o causing clearance issues. and finally, from the side: hope this helps. The back tab that's causing clearance issues can be ground. All in all, I'm still happy with the purchase. You may be able to talk to the guy and request that the back plate be ground to the connecting pipe prior to powdercoat. That'd easily double or triple the clearance.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=7986213757 That's the "original" sale. If you look at the questions, first one is if it runs on propane. I was curious why the original link you gave had pictures in it talking about propane run SBC's. The original sale filled in the rest. Perhaps it didn't actually sell and the deal was cancelled after the other person realized it was going to be useless to them.

The thing also runs on propane...

standard JTR mounts, nothing special that should have altered my engine location. I haven't looked to see what direction my engine torques towards, I'm really hoping it's towards the passenger side... but I'm pretty sure it'll be driver's side because that would cause me the most trouble and that's how this build has been going.

I don't have MAF, have a 93 firebird LT1 and a trick flow intake elbow and still barely cleared the coil in the new location. I'll get pics up tomorrow, damned school making me do stuff other than work on my car. -Andrew

Bought the thing, installed it... less than 1/8" clearance with my drivers side strut tower. It seems it'd be possible to just do a little grinding to increase that. I'll try to get some pics soon. Other than the extremely close tolerance, the thing looks great and installs amazingly easily, granted I haven't checked yet to see if my coil wire reaches..... Also, it was necessary to extend my intake elbow as far as possible away from the intake to clear the new coil location. Now all I have to do is figure out why my engine won't crank over anymore. -Andrew

md77, I've got similar issues. I get a click with a simultaneous power drain (ammeter shoot to -45 amps and radio turns off). My key has to be jiggled in and out and all around on occasion to get the right spot to allow me to get to the start position as well as to get it to the off position (is this the same as your wiggle?). The key can also be pulled out from any location on the ignition switch. As for the not starting but clicking, I got a brand new ungodly high-amp rated, fully-charged battery, overkill 2 gauge battery cables to block and starter. I even went to autozone and got a "conditional" starter hoping I had a bad solenoid. And all I got for this money was a frustration/anger and a long string of expletives. As for the clicking sound, I too thought it was coming from the fusebox area, but it was actually my starter. It throws out but doesn't retract. slightly turning the crank by hand releases it. I've tried shimming and everything but I'm thinking, after much reading of posts here and on LT1tech.com that my solenoid isn't seeing all 12.xx volts from my batt. Long story short: starter circuit thru ignition switch may have too high of a voltage drop to allow full throw of the starter solenoid. Full throw seems necessary for cranking.

22 orders now

I'll post some pics when I'm proud of the way it looks right now stuff's all over. Stupid grad school taking up my time..... grrr.

running engine... that's all. Baby steps. Next up is the serp. belt system and installing the 7/8" tilton clutch MC and slave and brake booster and MC. Still soooo much to do

After excessive study, profuse cussing then use of a multimeter and wiring diagram, connection of a few extra pink wires to switched power, she let loose a roar. Talk about putting a smile on my face. Lessons learned to date: 1. Getting sand out of engines blows. 2. My engine doesn't post oil pressure until it starts. 3. If it's pink, give it power 4. Several others I've forgotten already Thanks for the help and the forum. Good luck to all those who are still trying, and also to my sucker roomie who's putting a crate 350 into his 280z. I've now taken the lpassed him on the road to grins, smiles and squalling tires.

I've got a 95 Cop Caprice harness and ECU and am slowly going thru it. Got some Alldata for the thing but nearly impossible to locate the Wiring diagrams there. Anyway, bank 1 and bank 2 (if like the F-body's) are left and right O2's respectively. I ran into the mystery connector as well w/ a 93 harness. If I remember right, there's an ECT (the ECM coolant sensor) and a temp sensor (to the instrument cluster). The mystery box, if it's like mine, holds fan , A/C and AIR relays, ECU and A/C fuses and a few other things I can't remember. Again, all wiring is from my Caprice wiring diagrams. So, your "Red" grey and black may be the A/C pressure sensor if the red wire is infact red/black (according to wiring diagrams) The TP sensor should be dk blue, black and grey and the black and grey wires should go to other sensors, grey to the A/C press. sensor and black to IAT and A/C press sen. Knock sensors should be dk blue. AS for your light blue, the only wires I came across that were that color had white or black striping and went to the Idle air control. Ignition control, most likely your ignition coil module 4 pins, white, white/black, pink/black and black/white. If they are a pair of connectors (black and grey) each with a pair of pins (wires might be pink and something? and pink/black and white/black respectively) then it's your coil connector. If I remember right, the ignition coil should have 3 places to plug things in, the pair side by side and the 4 pin. I hope this was of some help, if you still needed it....