djz

Did you put the rubber isolators back in place? Have a look at this diagram, part number 7. http://www.xenons130.com/4C05.html

Why only 260 degrees? Has the head been notched for high lift cams? You'll need thicker buckets at that lift too probably.

Ross Racing/Raw Brokerage have a few different oil pump mounts, including an under alternator one I just spied. http://www.rawbrokerage.com/oil-pumprb26/?sort=featured&page=2 http://www.rawbrokerage.com/ross-tuffbond-single-stage-external-oil-pump-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30/

It's been certed here in NZ with no problems, I gusseted the two L brackets in the corners, it's bolted to the floor with 3 x 10mm bolts each side and 2 x 8mm bolts on each side of the flat piece the mount sits on. The L brackets are 50x5mm steel and there are 50x5 plates on the inside of the car too.

I chopped both the ears off and made a mount similar to the JTR V8 mount that bolts through the tunnel. Like so:

Probably what matters more is how good your manifold is for wastegate flow.

Hey, your engine mounts might be a little different to mine, I've got a reasonable amount of room above the head but not a lot between the sump and the crossmember. You should post up some pictures of yours, I'd like to see it. I'm actually keen on doing a low mount single turbo, I think that'd be pretty cool.

I'm not sure what you mean "piece by piece", but buy either motor, fit something like a GT3582R and possibly some bigger injectors (to the RB25) and you'll be in your power range.

I'm pretty sure that calculator has the wrong rod length for L20A rods, they are the same as L24 rods, apart from the odd ball late L20As that have smaller journals etc.

Check the rocker cover gasket and head gasket at the back too, the highest up place you can find oil is probably where it's coming from.

49.961 + 49.974 / 2 = 49.9675 49.9675 - 49.657 = 0.3105, that's pretty close to 0.25mm I wouldn't be relying too much on measuring a journal that rooted.

0.25 or 0.025? ACL make both. I'll think you'll find they are in millimetres as well, not imperial. How long did you "cruise" for while it was knocking?

You know that "torque" isn't actually a unit of measurement and the abbreviation TQ as a suffix to a set of numbers means absolutely nothing?

If you rotate the hub so the stud is at the 6 o'clock position standard length studs should clear the control arm. I managed to get extra long studs in mine by grinding a small notch (maybe 1 - 2mm) in the control arm where they were just touching.

Front turbo or rear turbo?