dragoontwo

it seems that Kameari parts are going to be available to us here at last. Their site is still under a bit of construction, but you can contact them. they have a few things listed so far. http://www.kameariusa.com/main.htm

is there going to be any support to be able to attach .xls files to posts? The reason I ask is for datalog sharing for us MegaSquirt users. Mike

can you provide reference material for others interested in doing the same?

I can't answer your question directly, but I can offer you a cheap, quick and easy solution to your problem. you can use the stock 3 row pulley, and using napa part # CSS304, some longer bolts, and spacers, attach a 36-1 wheel to the outside of your current pulley. I've attached pics to help. basically, take off the third pulley, it just bolts on. set your engine to TDC and figure out where you need to drill the holes on the wheel, drill the holes, and attach to the front of the damper with some longer bolts and spacers. I'm also using napa part # CSS411 as my VR sensor. what do you think about that? edit: the wheel is 23.49 + tax and the sensor is 27.99 + tax.

Well, I've finally got my '82 Turbo up and running on MS V3 board running MSExtra 029v with the wheel decoder doing DIS. I have a single groove BHJ damper on the crank, with a custom laser cut 36-1 wheel. I also made my own sheilded cable for the VR sensor. at the moment, I'm running on metro's fuel map, and Forrest's spark map. I get resets under full load, but I'm going to try to add a few more ground wires to the ms box, and the vb921's.

I think I've got it.... after being away from the problem for a bit, and talking to tonyd, my problem isn't really a problem. I did not realize where the battery voltage went to to power everything, and I should be straight now. I've moved the fusable link box to the good car, and everything should now be ok.

I'm in the process of squirting a '82 zxt, but here's the catch.... the car I had bought has very little wiring in it. it doesn't even have the wires for the battery terminals. I have an '82 zxt parts car with everything in it. now my question is, what wiring do I actually need to transfer? I'm going to build my harness for the ms on the car, so I just need to know what I need to get power from the key to the ms. I'm going to wire the fuel pump in with the relay board, and I'm going to be using the wheel decoder for edis directly instead of using the ford unit. thanks, Mike

I drove to L.A. and back from TN. also totaled Frontier #2 in the process, but the drive was not hindered. all for a $500 good body 280ZX.

will there be a possibility for the turbo ducts on either hood?

if you went through megasquirt.info, you should have seen the assembly instructions. the building of the harness should be in there also. and if you don't feel that you can build everything yourself, there are people that will build the boxes and the harness for you. the only thing that would really be left is the harness to your engine.

1. Digi-Key is the place they reccomend you buy your components for the board from. 2. The Stimulator is a diagnostic tool for the ms. you can use it to check the function of the ms through the building process, or off of the car with this. 3. Either through a harness you build, if you know the wiring layout, you can connect most of the factory harness wires to it..... 4. any sensors that you want. you can run gm sensors if you don't want to mess around with easytherm, which will allow you to use the stock sensors. 5. I would try to find someone using a similar sized engine over on the MSefi Forums

as to my previous comment on pressure, I was wrong. a good minimum hot idle pressure is 5psi. and a good minimum max load pressure is 25 psi. if you exceed 65-70 psi however, you may start to push oil pass the seals. remember these are minimums, and were taken from the book Maximum boost.

Iirc, you don't want more oil pressure than you have pressure in the turbo.

as long as you know at least 3 resistances at specified temps, yes.

also looks like an adel clamp on the firewall...and the tb.... looks like some aviation grade parts.........

you use a thermocouple to read egt's. there are different types of these as well. for example a "K" type thermocouple is made of 2 different metals. Alumel and Chromel. the temp. is read by reading the resistance between the 2.

you can't just drop an N/A dizzy into that engine. you would also have to change the distributor drive shaft as well. the '81 turbo had the cas on the crank, and the '82-'83 turbo have the cas built into the dizzy itself. are you doing a full stock swap (ecu, harness, engine), or are you doing something else? I don't think the '82 ecu would run with an N/A dizzy.

Gimmie my foot back!

the shafts are different. the n/a shaft has one offset slot, while the turbo dizzy has more slots.

the only one I have seen is roostmonkey's car, but he's not using MS. the only hard part looks like it will be mounting a wheel and sensor. I'm also looking at different coil packs to use with the setup than just the ford pack. something like 3 RX-7 leading edge coil packs or so.

I just searched the forum and found that it should be 1,5,3,6,2,4. (someone correct me if I'm wrong here) and I also plan to go with EDIS when I get to install mine.

can anyone tell me why I shouldn't try to do the 'N EDIS? I think it will clean up the engine bay a bit more, and clean up the plug wires. it will be for my turbo zx.

have you checked your connectors for corrosion? have you checked the tps adjustment?