johnc
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Posts posted by johnc
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Coilover refers to a suspension setup where the coil spring encircles a shock or strut tube and the lower spring perch is part of the shock or strut tube. Technically its just the spring and the upper and lower spring perches. JDM marketing now sometimes uses the term to describe a parts package that also includes the shock or a fully assembled strut/shock combination or just the spring and perches. Make sure you know what you're buying.
Take your stock gland nut and slip it over the 3016. If it fits over the shaft, does not rub on the shaft, and seats squarely on the shock body you can probably use it in place of the Tokico specific gland nut. You can make a spacer out of an 1.5" OD length of tube of pipe.
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My Boss: We have a guy here, John Coffey, that knows a lot about Datsuns.
Guy Selling a 510: John Coffey? He's a dick!
Boss: Really? He seems to be a pretty good guy to me.
Guy: He's a cock! A new guy asks a question on a forum and he jumps all over his ass.
Boss: New guys deserve that.
My plan to become known as a curmudgeon on the Internet is progressing well...
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Alternately, I may go coilover since the tokico line is hard to come by. So, if anyone as a set of coilovers laying around they're not using let's talk.
You do know that you still need shocks when you buy "coilovers."
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$5,000 for a new bare head is a great price.
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The mods here have deleted or moved a few of your questions because they are too vague or they have been answered here many times over the last decade.
Please read the rules, which we asked you to do when you signed up. Also, please search this site for answers to your questions. If you do have a question after searching, make it very specific with plenty of background information so we can give you the correct answer(s).
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The basic shock is the same as the 3013. You will need the correct 280z size gland nut and a longer spacer.
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FYI.... the part needs to be welded into the car. You should not powder coat it or paint it before welding. I always left that to the customer because its important to get a good weld to the frame rails and you have no idea what color they want to paint the engine compartment.
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You might just be at the material strength limit for the hub, the steel wheels might be flexing too much, or the wheel might be incorrectly seated against the hub face. I ran 16 x 10 Kodiak wheels with 275/45-16 with Hoosier A6 and R6 on the Rusty Old Datsun (2,150 lbs without driver). Never had a problem and those same hubs had 10+ years of autocross and track days with 15 x 8 Monocoque wheels and various DOT-R 225/50-15s. Car weighed anywhere from 2,290 to 2,410 during that time period and pulled from 1 to 1.6G lateral for the 14 years it raced on those same hubs.
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My 3L ran a diesel crank.
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At least here in the USA, I don't know if even the LY head is legal with SCCA, VARA, HSR, SVRA, etc. The rule sets are generally restricted to USA specific or FIA Group 3 except, maybe, for some IMSA categories. There are a lot of so called "outlaw" series here like Redline Time Attack, etc. but I checked for the TC24B engine and it would be classed with essentially unlimited turbo cars.
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Cool! Big props!
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On my 3L is ran a Quatermaster 5.5" carbon/carbon double disk clutch and a Nissan Comp 8qt. oil pan. Oil cooler was a water/oil Niagara unit built into the radiator. Timing was controlled by the Motec and the initial setting was straight up (0 advance). After 25 hours we pulled the rod bearings and they looked fine. Put in new ones and set the next inspection at 100 hours. Sold the car and engine before then.
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Well... I disagree with the idea that an R180 is reliable and can safely handle more then the torque numbers I listed above. I road raced for years and my racing L6 made 275 ft. lbs. in a 2,100 lb. car with 275 width Hoosiers. Running a Quaife ATB, a welded diff, and a OSG Super Lock. In all cases the diff got too hot to touch after a 30 minute session even with a 5 row Mocal cooler. Fluid tests showed that even Redline 75W/-140 was losing is additive package after a weekend of use. There is a metallurgical limit to what a 7" ring gear can handle. I also know that Ken Block's STi had its rear diff swapped out after every event (and sometimes between event sessions) with a new unit from Subaru.
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300 ft. lbs. is about the limit for an R180 driven hard. That requires a good 4 pinion LSD and frequent fluid changes. Hard dragstrip style launches are risky at over 250 ft. lbs. of torque.
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You will have to fabricate your own mounting.
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All S30s have rust. The question is, how much. Here in SoCal 5 to 7k will get you a good driver with no AC and some rust in the floor pans.
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Hybridz is about hands on car builds. Part of that hands on approach is doing the research yourself and determining the correct approach, specs, products, methods, and costs. From your post (and the duplicate one I tossed in the tool shed) it appears you want us to give you the answers. In your last couple posts you're somewhat demanding of answers.
That's not how this site works. Take a lot more time to do the research and come to your own conclusions. Since you are new to these cars, you've got a few weeks of reading to do. Good luck.
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My post above is an old one before I got my hands on the 1437 and before Koni sent me the shock dyno. The 1437 and 1149 are essentially the same for our purposes.
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Let me know what airplanes he's welded on. I won't set foot on them.
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That's bad, that's really bad. You cannot pie cut and piece a structural member like that. Find a fab shop and have them bend 10 tubes to the template I provided. Should cost you $200 at most.
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Yeah, probably not worth cutting out. I would drill a 1" hole in that frame box and try to inspect inside.
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If everything goes right then yes, you don't need the bushings. If something is not exactly right, you will be very grateful to have the bushings in place.
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Because I don't have time. I work, a lot.
And this isn't a good answer here.
How-To's = T-Bolt Clamp / Hanger, Cutting Aluminum, Devilish Stainless
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Thanks!