johnc
-
Posts
9842 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
53
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by johnc
-
-
You can make that bottom hole bigger. You don't want the adjuster to bottom out in the housing.
-
Same as I recommended before. Compression damping is more about vehicle weight, weight distribution, unsprung weight, tire grip,etc. then spring rate.
A simple example of working with compression and rebound damping is softening front rebound and rear compression will allow a quicker weight transfer to the rear giving better rear grip out of a corner - you can get on the throttle more. If turn-in is an issue you do the opposite, soften rear rebound and front compression. If the car gets on the bump stops (front or rear) and you don't want that to happen, increase compression on that end. If the car stays on the bump stops, reduce rebound on that end.
Always remember that shock damping controls the rate at which something happens (load transfer, unsprung weight movement, sprung weight movement).
-
Huh? You're talking about removing the camber plate, spring, bump stop, gland nut, and shock on both sides. That's not the same as removing the four bolts holding both steering arms and one bolt holding a sway bar end link.
-
You can adjust the fronts in about 1/2 hour by disconnecting one anti-roll bar end link, removing the steering arm bolts, pulling the strut off the steering arm, make the adjustment through a hole you drilled in the bottom of the strut tube, and reassembling. The rears are even easier, you just need a short flat blade screwdriver to make the adjustment through a hole you made in the bottom of the strut tube.
-
-
I echo what Litman has posted. These are for tire changing only, no working under the car. I've been a pit crew for two Vipers running air jacks and they can be a serious safety issue. The system I used allowed the air hose to be removed after the car was up and then a handle pulled to drop the car. Its for professional use only IMHO.
-
Call Stan at Benchmark Composites: http://benchmarkcomposites.com/contact/index.html
-
The same 720 4x4 pickups mentioned above also came with a 4.38 front R180 diff in the "1 ton" version. They are less common then the 4.11 but they are out there.
-
Probably not. IIRC, the 240SX R&P is for the short nose R200. Your Datsun used the long nose R&P. There are kits available that will let you install the short nose R200 into your Datsun if you want to go that route.
-
"... because they found the steering to be crisper.
... because they found the chassis to be stiffer.
... because they lost the bolts one Sat afternoon."
Yes.
-
The stock crossmember is held in by 4 bolts. I can't think of a way to do it properly with fewer bolts.
-
It's much better to weld the engine crossmember to the frame. Old ITS racer cheater trick.
Why would you need quick access to the insides of the engine?
-
1
-
-
The PG is a piece of crap and generally just screws up the diff.
-
Snap-On sells a complete line of plastic coated sockets and box wrenches.
-
Float levels are too low. Way too low.
-
I don't know what Dave recommends for an inspection, but on my race engine I pulled the rod bearings after 25 hours and they looked perfect. I reinstalled new Nissan bearings and ran 50 hours before the next inspection, which was still good (leakdown was 2%). Sold the engine at 80 total hours and it was still at 2% leakdown.
-
I don't do that work anymore, you'll have to find your own machinist if you have to go that route.
-
I would never run that engine below 4,500 rpm on the track. Redline would be 7,500 with the shift light coming on at 7,300 rpm. A rough starting point on trans gearing would give you a 2,000 rpm drop from first to second, 1,750 second to third, and 1,500 rpm or less for every subsequent shift. The engine has a broad enough torque band to handle that.
You should be able to keep the rpms up with your current gearing. In the video you are short shifting for some reason.
Starting with the rear end gear is a good idea.
-
No info.
-
Based on the video you are geared way wrong. You appear to never go beyond about 6,000rpm. Based on your induction and claimed horsepower numbers you should running the motor to 7500 rpm or more.
-
The site is fine. The sources for the gears have been posted here for 14 years. Please search.
-
Having spend $8K on a Quaife Sierra dog box sequential from Taylor Race Engineering I suggest you call and talk with them. A $5,000 budget will probably get you a Jerico or a modified BW T5. But, be forewarned, you better know your rear gear ratios, tire OD, engine peak torque rpm, peak horsepower rpm, rpm limit, car weight, clutch, etc. before you call Taylor. They are going to ask you all of hose questions and more. And your car is undertired given your horsepower numbers.
A 3:36, 3:54, or a 3.90 rear gear is completely wrong given your tire size, engine power, and rpm limits. You should be running at least 4:11 or 4:38 and probably a 4:64. Gear the car for a top speed of 150mph which will be about your limit on any track in the US except Road America and Road Atlanta. A 2.25 first gear would be a good starting point for your ratio selection.
-
For a customer in Copenhagen I've taken the Toyota S12W calipers and machined the outer caliper to look remarkably close to the FIA calipers. They were accepted by the local European FIA vintage racing association for competition use. That might be an alternative for you.
-
Thanks Chris. Yes we do some pretty amazing stuff with old Porsches. We also have two S30s in the shop right now. One is a full restoration on a 11/69 build and the other is a 2016 Peking to Paris Endurance Rally car for a father and son team.
Complete floor/subframe/firewall transplant to pre-smog Datsun
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Weight, the work involved, and the resulting car will be less stiff then a reinforced S30 chassis without the old style ladder frame from the S10. Search this site and read. There are at least a couple dozen 10 second or quicker S30s built here that do not use a pickup truck frame.