johnc

Every expatriate Iraqi that I've met has said that they are grateful for what the US has done (and is still doing) for the Iraqi people. There are also a lot of blogs out there from Iraqis in country that feel the same way. http://healingiraq.blogspot.com Maybe the reason's we went into the country are a bit muddled now but removing another genocidal dictator is always a good thing. We forget that too often when looking at things from a US political perspective.

Stuck valve?

I would be willing to do this swap for someone. Looks interesting. $35 per hour plus materials. http://www.betamotorsports.com

An invaluable resource! http://www.auto-ware.com/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=knowledgebase

I'm running 16 x 10s with 5" backspace and ZG flares and you WILL have to cut and re-weld fenders significantly if your car is lowered to a ride height of 5". With 11" wide Hoosiers (275/45-16) clearance is also tight up front by the end of the front bumper, especially on the passenger side.

As a devoted NA guy (turbos are for lazy engine builders ) I would love to see that come true.

My last set was $700 from JE, but then I got a real good guy price 'cuz I seem to be going through a lot of them. What kind of power is Kameari Engine Works geting from their NA L6 engines using the two valve head? The upper limit here in the US is around 340hp SAE corrected at 8,500 rpm. The rpm (and thus horsepower) limits Rebello and Sunbelt hit are set by the crank and the rods, not cam timing or chain issues. If Kameari is getting more horsepower at higher rpms as a result of their cam chain system, then I'll happily eat my words and buy their setup. A caveat, I'm not an engine guy so I'm just parroting what I've been told after spending tens of thousands of dollars on a 7400 rpm 320 hp NA L6. (note the new numbers).

I'm sure everything you've listed is true. I just look at $440 + shipping and figure that's almost of a set of forged pistons or a turbo or a Nissan Comp header and Borla XR-1 muffler or a non-exclusive test day at Buttonwillow. All of which will make me and my car faster around a race track, which the 13,000 rpm chain thingy won't. But, then my perspective has always been a bit warped...

Well, all the rods, the crank, some pistons, the flywheel, and the harmonic balancer will have all left the engine compartment at a tick over 9,000 rpm, but you'll be able to proudly point to your 13,000 rpm chain tensioner and impress your friends. FYI... got a call from Sunbelt today and my 3L NA motor is now making double digits north of my original 305 hp and 257 ft lbs numbers.

OK, time to get out my little soapbox. There's no such thing as a best combination for street and road racing. You're going to compromise each and end up with something that's not a good street car and not a good track car. As long as you realize this, let's get on with the project. First, a basically stock block and head, stock brakes, coil overs, etc. 240Z in SCCA ITS trim on 14 x 7 wheels will run 1:34s all day long at Willow Spring big track without any drama or brake fade. I have yet to see ANY V8 powered 240Z match that time. It sounds like you want to run with either the Shelby, SVTOA, or Cobra clubs. If you can run mid 1:30s you'll beat 95% of those guys. What will get you to those times is NOT the car, its your own skill. Spend you money making the car reliable and safe. Then spend the rest of your money on driving instruction and track time. Inspect your chassis and fix all the rust. Replace your original suspension and chassis fasteners with new OEM or AN/MS. Install front and rear strut tower braces, a roll bar of some kind, 5 point race harness, and an FIA race seat for safety. Do all of this FIRST. Once you've got the chassis sound, talk with Ross Corrigan at Modern Motorsports about a setup with camber plates, 175 front and 200 rear springs, and Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable shocks. You'll also need a 1" front and 3/4" rear anti-roll bars. Replace all the suspension bushings with poly (except the TC rods). Also, talk with him about a brake setup with vented front and solid rear rotors, the appropirate calipers, new master cylinder and brake booser, and pads. Start looking for some 15 x 7 or 15 x 8 rims and run 225/50-15 Kumho V700s for the track. And then spend hours and hours on seat time because you're not going to beat those guys until you know how to drive. And once you think you know, let me know and I'll give you some tips for getting around WSIR quickly.

Which Koni insert?

Here's a list of some nearby reasonably priced hotels and motels: Beach-La Habra Motel 770 S. Beach, LH (562) 691-7796 Holiday Inn Express 118 E. Orangethorpe, Placentia (714) 528-2500 Brea Hyland Motel 727 S. Breal Blvd, Brea (714) 990-6867 La Habra Motel 200 E. Whittier Blvd, LH (562) 697-0714 The Fullerton Inn 2601 W. Orangethorpe, Ful (714) 773-4900 I can't vouch for any of them because I've never stayed there. There's only one known prostitute hotel in La Habra and that's the Oasis Motel. If you're interested in staying there I can give you the number and they have rates down to the 1/2 hour.

The prediction from Jim Thompson at Sunbelt: Hopefully this really lights a fire under Javier's ass.

A lot of folks would be very impressed if this happened. He needs to generate the numbers on a SAE calibrated engine dyno if he wants anyone like Dave and Jim to believe him.

Get out your digital calipers and measure the base circle on each cam lobe and then measure the maximum diamter at the highest lobe lift. Do some math and you should be ale to figure out if there are any lift differences.

400 hp? What is Javier building for you Hiten? 4 speeds Jerico RR4 $3200 Jerico WC4 $3100 Jerico WC4-4 $4200 Hewland MVE NC500 $7500 5 speeds Jerico 5S-RR $5500 Weismann $10500 Quaife Rocketbox $5500 Hewland MVE STA 200 - $12700

Tim would know, BTW... Tamika says you still owe her $20 Tim.

Global West seems to be the tuner of choice for a lot of the A Sedan and autocross Camaro racers here on the west coast. http://www.globalwest.net

The photos above are not of a cage. That's a roll bar with forward braces.

Another reason to run high pressures is to reduce the chance of localized boiling in the head. Sometimes you'll get hot spots that create small steam pockets. A higher overall system pressure will reduce the chance of the steam pockets forming.

Do you want a cheap hotel or a nice hotel. Pick one.

I have yet to find any shop that shaves tires willing to risk their expensive blades on tires that have touched pavement. One little rock and the blade is junk.

Lots of extra unsprung weight. Haven't had a fade problem yet with my little 4 piston Outlaw 2800s, vented 11" front rotor, and solid rear. Most folks overbuild their brake systems.

The Fox chassis Mustang's 4-link rear suspension consists of a live rear axle held in position by upper and lower control arms, coil springs, and gas-filled shock absorbers. On a Mustang GT you also get quad shocks and a rear anti-roll bar. The upper arms locate the axle side-to-side and prevent pinion angle changes. The lower arms locate the axle front-to-back and transmit acceleration loads to the chassis. FYI... none of the control arms are parallel to each other. As designed, when the Mustang rolls in a turn, one side of the chassis moves up relative to the rear axle, the other side moves down. The non-parallel control arms must twist and change length axially to allow the axle to articulate, which they can't do. This causes the rear suspension to bind (no more movment). If this bind becomes excessive, it can raise the rear wheel rate and produce sudden snap oversteer. Ford "fixed" this problem in later model Mustangs by using soft rubber bushings in both the upper and lower control arms. The rubber bushings allow more motion of the control arms during body roll and turns. Bind is reduced, but the rubber bushings are a "soft" mounting for the axle. That softness produces wheel hop on hard launches and braking, and horizontal axle movement in turns. Its a Catch 22 if you're trying to modify the stock 4 link on a Mustang. Increase bushing stiffness and you get bind. Reduce bushing stiffness and you get wheel hop and lateral location problems (rear steer). The correct fixe involves a complete redesign (ie: Griggs 3 link, Steeda 5 link).

Probably not, but there's only one way to find out...