johnc

Disassemble, clean, and rebuild your master cylinders. Spend some time going through your calipers to make sure the seals are new, the pistons fit correctly in the bores, the calipers are centered over the rotor, and are square to the rotor faces. Rebuild your rear wheel cylinders and make sure the bores are not pitted, the pistons move freely, and the seals are new. Have your drums turned so that both have the same ID. Run the pads and shoes Jon mentions above. Get REAL racing stainless steel brake lines (forget the DOT approved SS stuff - most of that is chrome plated brass fittings). Bench bleed the master, thoroughly bleed the system using a good brake fluid like Motul 600, ATE Super Blue, Ford HD, Castrol SRF, etc. Adust the rear brake drums until they drag slightly while spun.

Then this is NOT the Fastest Six Cylinder Shootout (FSCS). Its the ALMOST BUT NOT QUITE Fastest Six Cylinder Shootout (ABNQFSCS). How would Andy Flagg fit in? I think he has about the fastest Z aorund at over 175mph or is this just a drag racing thing?

As I've always said, the rest of the country should thank us "normal" Californians for running the asylum here. If you start pissing us off, we'll just open the gates and let them loose. Then they're YOUR problem...

I looked up the halfshaft assemblies on the parts microfiche. Here's the listings (with most duplicates removed): Nissan Halfshaft Assemblies for the US HLS30 series 39600-E4150 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 00/00 To: 06/72 ALL 39600-E4110 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 07/72 To: 04/73 ALL Replaces: 39800-E4150 39600-N3751 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 05/73 To: 04/74 MANUAL 39600-N3756 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 05/74 To: 08/74 MANUAL Replaces: 39800-N3751 39600-N4251 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 09/74 To: 07/76 MANUAL Replaces: 39800-E3756 39600-N3851 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 08/73 To: 04/74 AUTO 39600-N3856 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 05/74 To: 08/74 AUTO Replaces: 39800-N3851 39600-N4151 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 09/74 To: 11/74 AUTO Replaces: 39800-N3856 39600-N4156 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 11/74 To: 99/99 AUTO Replaces: 39800-E4151 39600-N4251 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 12/74 To: 07/76 ALL 39600-N4251 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 08/76 To: 07/77 MANUAL 39800-N4256 ASSY-DRIVE SHAFT From: 08/77 To: 99/99 MANUAL Nissan basically had 10 different halfshaft assemblies for the 240/260/ and 280Z. There's a lot of overlap on the time periods so its hard to identify when exactly the R200 specific halfshafts came into use. Was the R200 immediately available on the manual transmisison 280Zs?

No need to re-measure, you did it right. So far, no one's been able to find the supposed shorter R200 specific halfshafts. Hopefully they exist and we can get some parts numbers. Tony D is going to look through his pile of stuff and measure a set of known R200 280Z halfshafts when he gets time.

I'm not a good case study of how to spend money on a head. Jim made three custom cam grinds doing the R&D on my N42 cylinder head. As an example, I'm running valve springs that have 25% less seat pressure then stock Nissan springs but my engine's soft redline is 7,500rpm. I'm not sure if Jim is putting that R&D knowledge into customer cylinder heads yet. You'll know if you have single valve springs on the head you get back from Sunbelt and the 3 & 4 exhaust ports look "funny". I wish my headwork only cost $3K...

Its pretty tough to do that here in CA. It took a complete out-of-touch idiot like Davis to get a moderate Republican into office. CA is a really big state and the conservative rural areas are hugely out numbered by the more liberal urban counties. If you look at voting patterns by counties, the vast majority of then (something like 85% of the counties) vote conservative, but because of the huge population concentrations in a couple bay area and SoCal counties, CA votes nationaly as a liberal state. The trend is towards more moderate or conservative, but its a slow trend and may not sustain.

Those are even longer, fully compressed, then the four I measured which were consistently at 12.185" (12 3/16 or 309.5mm). Did you measure the center-to-center distance of the u-joint holes in the halfsafts? There's an example of how I measured on the web page linked at the firs tpost in this topic.

I think we should all run over the sensors that we see setup on the freeway. Say you were distracted, apologize, and have your insurance company pay for it. It will take months for the insurance settlement and by then, if we all do our part, the state may run out of the sensor units.

Horsepower has nothing to do with the brakes. Momentum and mass are what the brakes have to deal with. A 150hp, 2,500lb car going 100mph requires the same rate of heat conversion under hard braking as a 500hp, 2,500lb car going 100mph. For a street car that will occur one time with a long cooling off period before the next hard brake application. Mass in the rotors and calipers help with this type of brake usage.

A number of people have said that but no one has come up with any measurements or put one in my hand.

I gave up on Porterfields for the reason's you cite above. Bryan Lampe and Erik messley lost the 2001 Cal Club Enduro precisely because he ran the Porterfield R4 pads. He had a two lap lead on Frank H and Mark Jones in E2 but we had to stop and do a front pad swap which took 5 minutes longer then the mandated 10 minute pit stop. One of the pad backing plates had warped and we had to pull the right caliper to get it out. Burnt the crap out of my hands through the thick leather gloves I was wearing. In 2002 Bryan ran Hawk Blues and the pads lasted the entire 3 hours without a swap. Unfortunately, his fuel pump didn't. Checmically burned my arms this time 'cuz I was elbow deep in the full fuel cell making sure the pickups hadn't come off.

Chet Whittle was pretty happy with the brakes on his ARRC winning ITS 240Z. Bryan Lampe's happy with the brakes on his Cal Club ITS winning 240Z. Yes, you can improve on them and most people do (including myself) if the rules allow, but the stock Datsun brakes don't suck. For a street car, which isn't very hard on the brakes, the stock setup works fine if properly maintained. But, as I sometimes forget, this is HybridZ and brake mods are part of the hybridization process. For reference, I'm runnign the following: Outlaw 2800 4 piston calipers all around - 1.75" pistons front and 1.25" pistons rear. Hawk Black or Performance Friction pads. Coleman 11.25" diameter vented .810 thick front rotors. Brembo solid rear rotors. Tilton master cylinders and balance bar. Tilton prop valve. Stainless lines with AN 37 degree fittings. Air ducting (coming soon).

Stop posting in multiple forums.

But, they don't. Lots and lots of road racers use the stock Datsun brake system with great success on tracks across the country. EDIT: I can't type...

If you take the driveline (engine, trans, diff, halfshafts) out of the Z, replacing the brake lines is easy. For a car that's been sitting for 15 years, a driveline inspection/refresh is a given, so that stuff is coming out anyway. You'll have to make the brake lines yourself and the cost is totally dependent on whether you go with steel or stainless line, SAE 45 degree double flare or AN 37 degree single flare, the brake upgrades you're doing, etc. We can't make those decisions for you.

It just reduces the airflow through the IC. Using some small needle nose pliers you should be able to striaghten the bent fins.

Well... my 300+ hp 240Z was still pulling well at 135 mph but my gearing limited me to 143mph and turn 9 at Willow Springs got in the way of any further progress. That was with a .87 overdrive 5th, a 4:38 rear gear, and 25.2" tall tires. With a 4:11 gear I can get 153 mph and swapping in a 3:90 would get me to 161 mph at a 7,400rpm redline but I don't think the car can pull a 3:90 in 5th. FYI... with a 3:36 rear gear the chart says I can go 187mph! FYI2... My 240Z, in its earlier BSP configuration (front air dam, no rear spoiler) and an honest 200hp engine couldn't go faster then 135 mph with the stock 4 speed, a 3:54 rear, and 23" tall tires.

Why don't you go here: http://www.car-videos.com/tools/speedrpm.asp and plug in tire size, rear end ratio (try 3:54, 3:90, and 4:11), and transmission gears. It will spit out speed and rpm numbers so you can figure out what rear end ratio you need based on your target engine rpm for highway cruise. Once you have the ideal ratio for whatever engine/trans combo you're building you can determine if an "off the shelf" R200, R230, etc. is a solution.

Couldn't be, I spelled Heroin wrong....

Well... yes and no. You're correct in the assertion that a liquid cannot be compressed (at least at the pressure's we're talking about) but liquids are compressable and pressure does build up in a liquid if force is applied to it. That's how boats float, that's why submarines implode when the pass crush depth, that's why Herion flows from the syringe into the arm, and its why a full liter bottle of Pepsi explodes so nicely when shot with a 30-06. Not true. http://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae15.cfm http://www.mpcfaculty.net/mbamate_rovcontest/canyon%20floor/activities/Pressure_in_the_Deep_Sea.pdf http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/eng99/eng99234.htm http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=chemistry;action=display;num=1073282775

I went back and read Roggaman's first post and am confused by the setup. The general design is sound and is used often because most high pressure FI fuel pumps don't draw well, they are much better at pushing fuel. But I don't know why you would route the return line to the catch can and then back to the fuel tank. I've plumbed a few of these systems on race cars and here's the routing: Fuel Tank > feed line > high volume/low pressure pump > fuel pressure regualtor (2 to 5 psi) > feed line > surge tank > feed line > high volume/high pressure fuel pump > feed line > fuel rail > fuel pressure regulator (43 psi) > return line > fuel tank. No restriction is needed in the return line. FYI... most surge tank installations exist to solve fuel pickup problems in drag and road racing.

MSA has a lead time of 4 to 8 weeks for their fiberglass and CF body parts. Because they only buy in small quantities they are stuck with a supplier's manufacturing schedule that optimizes the manufacturers profits, not customer service. MSA doesn't normally stock the bigger body parts because they get damaged while sitting on the shelf and, here int he great state of California, the county taxes you on the retail value of the inventory you carry. I'm not making excuses for them, just letting you know how the process works.

Oh Geez! I do remember the yip, yips but someone is trying REALLY hard to tie them into some government/alien conspiracy. While I do believe there's life on other planets, I'm not so arrogant to think that Earth or the life on it would be of any interest to a society that has developed interplanetary travel. Douglas Adams had it right in the Hitchhicker's Guide to the Galaxy. Our first contact with life that has developed interplanetary travel will be when the Earth gets destroyed to make way for an Interstellar Bypass.

The fabrication work to move the diff wouldn't be that big a deal, but then you'll have to move the transmission and engine 3/8" to the right to maintain the correct driveline angles.