Gigantor

I need the plug off of the wiring harness that fits into the underside of the dizzy. From my understanding the plug on the Z31 turbo will also work as well. I can pay via Paypal. Email me at airtalkva@gmail.com or post here. Thanks! -Sam

Need to replace the head gasket on my L28et, I am having trouble finding any besides the cheap Fel-Pro ones. Ideally, I would like to find a 2mm gasket. Not looking for a used one (duh). Let me know what you have. - Sam

I found This post, and I went through it and tried every suggestion put forward in it; checked the voltage on the proper pins, tried unplugging at X time, etc etc. Is it possible the daughter card that came in my DIYAutoTune kit was just a lemon? Are there any simple tests I can do to check the daughter card?

Nope.. Same exact error.

Just attempted the install using a standard db9 cable and... The same error. This is getting quite frustrating.

1. Turn off Megasquirt . . Press any key to continue . . . 2. ! ! W A R N I N G ! ! . !!!Ensure ALL Direct Driven Coils Are UNPLUGGED from MS ECU!!! . . If in doubt unplug all ignition coils from system! . Damage to the MS ECU will result if you leave . coils driven from the MS plugged in . Press any key to continue . . . 3. Install Boot jumper. (marked B/LD on the MS2 plug-in card itself.) . . Press any key to continue . . . 4. Turn on Megasquirt . . Press any key to continue . . . . ms2dl.exe -c4 bootstrap.s19 MegaSquirt Download 1.05 Reading bootstrap.s19: bootstrap.s19 Detected MS-II (HCS12) code. Entry point: 0xc000 Code range : 0x4000-0xfff0 File read successfully. Opened comm port 4 at 115200. Erasing main FLASH: Erased. Writing: Write complete, 213 records, 3392 bytes. Verifying: Verification succeeded, 213 records total (8 skipped). Bootstrap loaded... . . 5. Turn off Megasquirt Press any key to continue . . . . . 6. Remove Boot jumper Press any key to continue . . . . . NOTE! If you experience problems in the next phase then you might have a problem with your computer's serial system. One possible workaround for the normal step 7 is as follows. 7A Unplug the serial cable 7B Turn on the Megasquirt 7C Plug the serial cable in again . . 7. Turn on Megasquirt Press any key to continue . . . . . ms2dl.exe -c4 ms2_extra.s19 MegaSquirt Download 1.05 Reading ms2_extra.s19: ms2_extra.s19 Detected MS-II (HCS12) code. Entry point: 0xc000 Code range : 0x4000-0x3dbfc0 File read successfully. Opened comm port 4 at 115200. Erasing main FLASH: Erased. Writing: Setting page register 0x38: Page set. Erasing page 0x38: Erased. ERROR: Timed out reading response, 0xE0 Press any key to continue . . . Note: I performed a, b, and c upon reaching step #7.

I ended up giving up on trying to follow the standard MS2 install manual, and instead switched over to following the MS2-e manual. I have completed the board, and am now attempting to load firmware to the device. However now whenever I go to try and install any "extra" firmware I get a Timed Out: 0xE0 message. Looking over the MSe forums, that appears to be a serial/comm issue. I am using a Radioshack brand adapter, which others appear to have had success with. I have the baud rate set to "1" for recieve and transmission, and port checker verifies that an MS device is present, and that no firmware is loaded. My stim is powered by a 12v 500ma charger, and I have all the right voltage in all the right places across the MS. This is getting quite frustrating, as I have spent over 10 hours today trying to resolve this issue. I have attempted it on 3 seperate windows computers (2x W7, 1X XP) computers, with all possible combinations. (Debug, no debug, etc). Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to borrow a friends laptop that has a db9 port. But if that does not work does anyone have any suggestions as to what I could try next? Thank you Jacob for your link, as well as to Noddle for the suggestion of a 12v charger. EDIT: Also, further confounding, is that the bootstrap will load just fine.

Much appreciated. I will attempt that this evening.

I am working on assembling my MS2 v3 board and have reached the section where you connect the pcb with stimulator to tunerstudio for the first time. The goal is to then see the clock gauge count up. I follow the steps as far as setting the COM port and "setting the ecu" under General. And nothing. I am using the proper INI file when starting the project, however Tunerstudio states that it "detects a controller in X port, however no firmware is installed" when I move forward. I have installed firmware v2.905 using the downloader and jumping b/ld on the daughter card per the Megamanual's instruction, and running "verify" on the downloader program confirms the firmware is installed. I have verified all of my solder connects, and proper +/- orientation. I am using a 9v battery to power the stim, and my meter confirms the battery has a full 9 volts. Would using a 12v power supply potentially solve the tunerstudio connection issue? Or is there something else I can check. I have spent countless hours researching this, and I have not found a topic with this same issue at this point in assembly.

How was this request at all irrational?

Well, my girlfriend has gotten bit by the Z-Bug and is in need of a car as her last one (an old volvo) bit the dust. She loved my '83 280zx when it was on the road, and is also looking for something she can learn stick on (luckily, ive got a spare oem clutch laying around). Her budget is $1300-$1500, so non-structural body and paint condition are not an issue. If you would like I have 2 Z parts cars you could look through ( 280zx, complete minus driveline, and '78 280zx completely stripped) to make a partial trade. Let me know. I am located in Northern VA, but we would be willing to travel a few hours for the right car. MUST be able to pass inspection and VA emmissions. Give me a call or text at 540-454-9354. Email airtalkva@gmail.com. Thanks!

I have one in Virginia. It would cost roughly $90 or so to ship it. Email me if interested. Airtalkva@gmail.com

Do you have an email I can reach you at directly? I have quite a few pictures of the car and it will be much easier for me to email them all. I can be reached at airtalkva@gmail.com

Do you have an email I can reach you at directly? I have quite a few pictures of the car and it will be much easier for me to email them all. I can be reached at airtalkva@gmail.com

1983 280zx with 138k miles. Car runs (though a little hot) has a clean interior with Pioneer radio and speakers. Car is missing muffler (was completly rusted out), but is not overly loud as the pipe does a good job of keeping it down. Dent in drivers side door, pass. side fender, and hood. I have replacement body parts for all of these which would be included (just need painting)Car has small amounts of rust, primarily by tail light corner on pass. side, and the spare tire well. Car is definetly a project, but would not take much to be a great driver. Car is also missing the front bumper accent on the drivers side (as seen in pic). I am located in Northern VA (20187). Price is $750. Let me know.

Replaced the fuel pump with a cheap Autozone one putting out 2-3.5 psi, and it no longer "bogs" out. Thank you all for your help!

I did the swap, the car has never ran perfectly since then. I added the electric pump as sort of a "while im at it" thing, so for no real particular reason other than I could. It is being run at the stock rear location. I do not have a regulator, so could the 5-6 psi be to much for the carbs? I plan on installing a fuel pressure guage today to answer Tony D's question.

I have a 1970 240z with an L28 (N42 block/head with flattop pistons)and the original SU carbs. I also have added an electric fuel pump which is suppose to pump at around 5-6 psi. Ever since completing the swap I have been unable to drive any farther than 9-10 miles without having to pull over and stop. The engine begins to "bog" out almost as if it is not getting fuel. I can delay this by keeping at low rpm. However I'm sure it is not vapor lock because almost immediatly after stopping I can restart the car and go another 8-9 miles. I have the timing set to 10' from TDC (I plan on trying to retard it tomorrow, see if that makes a difference) , and the points at .0020. I have replaced the condensor, points, rotor, resistor, and coil. I am really fed up with this issue. Does anyone have any other ideas as to what else I should check? The car runs FLAWLESSLY for those first 9 miles.

Still looking!

Need a nice pair of SU carbs for my 1970 240z. I have a pair of 4 screw SUs , but the throttle bushings need to be replaced. I could do a partial trade (my carbs plus cash) if seller was interested. I am located in Warrenton, VA and can be reached at airtalkva @ gmail. Com or 540 454 9354. Thanks- Sam

Got it taken care of! Went back, and while I originally had led myself to believe I had installed the "elbow" style mount on the left side as required, I infact had it on the driver's side. Got them switched around today pretty quickly (It's funny how much easier things go in when installed the correct way). Thanks for your help!

The elbow shaped one belongs on the pass. Side correct?

I recently swapped an L28 block with a late 280z 5 speed transmission into my 1970 240z. I knew I had to remove an inch or so of material around the shifter to allow proper space to shift. But peeering through the hole the shifter comes out of, the transmission is prominetly off-set towards the drivers side at angle. "\" somehwat like that (I will post a picture later. I noticied when I pulled my engine block there was a spacer on the passenger side motor mount, which I reinstalled with the new engine. My question is would this spacer possibly be the cause of the transmission being angled towards the drivers side of the car? Or did I somehow screw something else up? No where in my research on L28 swaps has anyone mentioned a spacer, could this be a Series 1 only thing?

Location?

Condition?