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Fuzzydicerule

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Posts posted by Fuzzydicerule

    What did you do to your Z today?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by Fuzzydicerule

    Not today but yesterday.

     

    Swapped out my 7/10 Clutch master (would not disengage the clutch on my T56) for a 3/4 that my buddy had, surprisingly that extra .05" made all the difference. I also got my false floor made with some aluminum, that i riveted in and seam sealed to keep the fumes out of the back of the car., kinda looks like ****, but it will work just fine...

     

    First REAL drive (i.e further than the 1/8th mile down my street and back) of my Z since October. Terrifyingly, one of my wheels was loose, but i caught it and got it tightened up before any damage could occur..

     

    Holy **** this thing is fast, i got on it from 2k-4500 in second and scurred me. Keep in mind this is with a very poor tune as well, since my FAST EzEFI still needs time to learn and make Air Fuel adjustments.

     

    http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/5439/73w.mp4

     

     

    Also now that shes being a good girl she gets the street parking again, my cobra is filthy...

    LS1 dual-single 3"

    in Exhaust

    Posted

    Hey all, now that my LS1 swap is running and driving i can finally focus on my exhaust.

     

    A few days ago i ordered the lot

     

    2x4' lengths of 3" tubing

    1x dual 3" -> Single 3" Magnaflow y pipe

    1x Moroso Spiral Flow

    1x 3" in, dual 2.5 out Thrush chambered muffler

    2x Cherrybomb Dual wall 3" outside, 2.5" inside Polished stainless tips

    3x 3" butt joint band clamps

     

    Annoyingly, everything but the band clamps showed up yesterday, otherwise the exhaust would be done and on the car right now, but in the down time i decided to do this

     

     

    Since i was going for the 432 style vertical tips, the spacing of the outlets on the muffler just wasnt going to do, it was way too far apart and the mockup looked rediculous

     

    WLK-17661_BK.jpg

     

    I determined that the side of the 2nd (top) pipe should be about even with the base of the cone at the end of the first,

     

    So i pulled out my trusty plasma cutter (after my bandsaw did little more than scratch the case) and i ruined my muffler.

    photo43.jpg

     

    and a quick mock up of the new spacing

    photo45.jpg

     

     

    and due to being distracted and the wonders of television, here is the finished project. Nothing really to see, just welding it in place and filling the holes.

     

    I also had to cut the tips quite a bit, which was a pain, but i cut the entire shank off of the top one, and about an inch past that on the bottom one to get them to stagger a bit.

    photo44.jpg

     

     

    Unfortunately that is it for now, more pics to come on my next day off when i get the exhaust built.

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by Fuzzydicerule

    Basically, with the clutch fully bled and functioning properly, pushing the pedal to the floor would not disengage the clutch (i.e engine running, trying to put it into gear didnt happen)

     

     

    LUCKILY, my friend, from whom i got both the LS1 and the Tilton box from had a 3/4 master cylinder that he had gotten for the car that was originally getting the LS1. and we did a straight trade,

    Also Luckily, i was a genius when i built the pedal box and left just barely enough room to get tho the fittings and the bolts, so changing them out was much easier than anticipated

     

     

    That yielded this result

     

    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v236/BANDGEEK234/?action=view&current=IMG_0266.mp4

     

    The 3/4 master cylinder is PERFECT, it engages about 1/2 way up pedal travel. I need to cut the rod down a bit to adjust where my pedal sits, and then i can fine tune my engagement point from there.

     

    My friend was in the drivers seat and started it after i swapped MC's, it was a brilliant feeling seeing him shift through the gears with the engine on, but then i backed it out of the garage and it ran out of gas >_<

     

     

     

     

    Also, my exhaust came in, again, annoyingly, MY CLAMPS DIDNT ( band style, i was going to do vbands but they be expensive)

     

    My decided upon exhaust setup will be a dual 3" from the collectors, combining to a single 3" after the crossmember, into a Moroso spiral flow, and the into a Single 3" in, dual 2.5" Thrush muffler at the ass end. VERY similar to KTM's setup

     

     

    So i took the time that i wasnt installing my full exhaust to do this

     

    I decided that the Thrush muffler had the outlets set too far apart, as my goal was the classic 432 tips

     

    WLK-17661_BK.jpg

     

    So this happened

     

    photo43.jpg

     

    photo45.jpg

     

     

    Add in some cherry bomb Dual wall 2.5" tips, and then you get yourself one schmexy exhaust

    photo44.jpg

     

     

    290010_3862028905902_1560940068_o.jpg

     

    Got my wiring mostly sorted out as well

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    yeah i guess with that other guy where he has them exit out the hood that doesnt have the issue of the exhaust bouncing and resonating either.

     

    Thanks rebekah, to be fair, as far as im concerned this is still a 9 month project, as i havent driven the car really since october when i took it apart for the ET swap, although the fact that the actual LS1 portion has only been a month and some change has been nice.

     

     

    Heres to hoping giving the master a bit more slack will do the trick (somehow i doubt it), luckily, it seems like its holding pressure just fine, and nobodys chimed in saying that there was something i needed to do to the slave, so i guess i get to do something equally as annoying as a transmission removal...

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by Fuzzydicerule

    AS many qualms as i have about you people knowing who i am IRL, i am just so damn excited

     

    This is the vid of the 2nd start, sadly cameras werent rolling for the 1st... but it will do, the plan was to back it out and drive down the street, but obviously that doesnt happen without a functioning clutch. Ignore the banter at the beginning, we were being (almost) kind neighbors and letting a woman with a couple small dogs walk past. and my friends are idiots... Also enjoy the startup scaring the **** out of my mother.

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=2189739000136

     

    This was after we moved it back, i was letting the car warm up to temp to ensure the fans kicked in (they do... Awesome) and i wanted to get the exhaust as far out of the garage as possible, the fumes still got to me a bit though, lol... Again, ignore the banter, i had just commented on how loud the thing was, and my buddy was explaining stuff about videos and had mention they are one of the loudest motors open header next to a rotary, at which point i yelled at my friend neil (who drives an FB RX7) that we need to do battle, hence me yelling "NEIL, BATTLE!. Funny enough his car is my baseline run for how fast this thing is compared to stock (i just barely (and i mean by my headlight buckets) edged him out with the L24, so we will see how much more rape this is now...) The vid ended after it shot a fireball out the passenger header.

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=2189730599926

     

     

    These are probably on my friend Jeffs wall, not mine, I am one of the Sam's that is tagged

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Yeah i am using a Tilton Floor mount pedal set. and unfortunatly that puts my Masters in a box in the fender well, so changing them isnt strictly easy...

     

    im going to try to adjust the input rod tomorrow, if that yields no results, i will purchase a 7/8 or a 1" master and then have no fun replacing it.

     

     

     

     

    Thanks, it was a good feeling. After all ive been through with this car, i was very worried that it wouldnt start, and when it fired right up and idled i was ecstatic, sadly the day ended bittersweet with the clutch, i was much looking forward to a romp around the neighborhood...

     

    That being said.. how on earth were you able to drive your car basically open header... its deafening..., my exhaust that i ordered should be here at the end of the week and that will be going on ASAP...

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    SHE LIVES!

     

    Sadly, she does not drive =(

     

    Quick overview of my day. I spent it finishing all the small wiring bits for the ECU and whatnot, once i was done with that, we primed the fuel pump only to find out those STUPID F-ING Ferrule Fuel line ends decided to leak, as 3 of the 4 fittings had the ferrule get cocked in the line, and therefore, not seal. So i took a page from the ghetto handbook and just hose clamped the 3 hoses over the flares on the tubing, and it all seals just fine now...

     

    After setting up the base tune on the ez-EFI, on push of the button and she fired right up... it was pretty damn cool, and it warmed up and stayed right at 195 degrees.. Annoyingly, it then promptly proceeded to not want to move... It seems i have a dilemma...

     

     

    Now for question time... I am using a 7/10 Master cylinder on my pedal box. I am 90% sure im using the full travel of the MC, but even on the floor, the clutch does not disengage.

     

    Does anybody know what the stock MC size was on the LS1 cars? I dont want to have to get a new cylinder, but thats looking like a possibility., unfortunately, the other possibilities (improper slave adjustment, or a leaking line at the slave) require the removal of the trans...

     

     

    The other option was, maybe i missed an adjustment on the slave cylinder? i have bled the thing multiple times and it feels fairly soft, i was just hoping that was the feel of the clutch...

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    I bought an eBay special 3 row aluminum radiator with twin electric fans and johns hoses. The upper hose from John fit great, the lower fit like **** so I made a wire shape and went shopping at my old sore (O'reillys) and found one thy had the right have(in the middle) an cut te ends off and it fits like a glove, As far as getting **** done its going way slower than if like tbh

     

    Infidel. Keep in mind that literally just tossed the wiring on te motor, I haven't had a chance to do anything with it yet

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    aight, do you still have my number, text me first.

     

     

     

    anywho, i had a fairly productive day. My headers are now built and installed, and my driveshaft is in, and the car is no longer on jack stands!

     

    I didnt take any pics when i was building the passenger side, as my buddy was helping me, and we got **** done very quickly, the other side was alot more brainstorming on my part, so i took the time to snap a few. The passenger side is a block hugger, exiting near straight down in front of the starter like you would expect, and the drivers is a normal shorty with lots of weird kinks to avoid ****, like you would expect.

     

    photo39.jpg

    Drivers side mid fabrication, this was right after i got all the tubes cut and test fit, just before i took it apart to finish weld it.

     

    photo38.jpg

    after welding and a coat of paint, i then realized i forgot the o2 bung, so i welded that in after this pic was taken

     

    photo36.jpg

    passenger side front, so you can see the collector

     

    photo35.jpg

    From the top

     

    photo34.jpg

     

    photo37.jpg

    my engine with its rats nest, that will be consolodated a bit to make it look a bit nicer once i get the car running.

     

    photo42.jpg

     

     

    photo40.jpg

    first time my cars been on the ground in a month, it sits a bit better with the LS1 and T56 in there too...

     

     

    Thats it for today, thanks guys

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    I'm trying I make it look nice but I'm not gonna jump through hoops to hide it, I just drilled a new firewall hole and ran em next to the old wiring harness firewall hole. I should actually be able to have it done tonight or tomorrow as its pretty damn straightforward... Both of y ecu modules are in and the wires are run to the engine, now it's just a matter of getting the other wires hooked up and everything installed

     

    The driveshaft is gonna cost me about 170 to get the old one shortened, I'm a bit weary of having the z size rear u joint but I figure I'll blow the r200 or axles before that, when I actually get around to getting th r230 in I'll get a beefy ds made

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Yeah seriously, unfortunately, my drivers side inner fender is taken up with cabin space so thats a no go... mehbeh if i decide to ditch the floor mounts later on...

     

    Ive been slowly sorting out my wiring in my after work time. Hopefully tomorrow night i can have it all buttoned up and ready for the headers.

     

    Im gonna take my driveshafts down to a shop to try and have them frankensteined tomorrow morning as well, however it looks like im going to have to go with JCI's driveshaft, everyone i have talked to has told me that all components will need to be replaced due to the non serviceable nature of the U joints.. hopefully it will be cheap, but i doubt it...

    1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Thank man, I'm trying

     

     

     

    Yesterday I got all the mounts cinched up, and got a measurement for the driveshaft, sadly I didn't have time to go talk to a driveshaft shop but I'm gonna try tomorrow...

     

    Good news is, the diff is in, and the starter and alternator are both wired. I started getting my ems installe last night but that got as far as mounting my xim box , I need a bigger hole saw to fit that crap through the firewall...

     

    Starter is working and I have the engine and trans fille with fluid..

     

     

    Header wise, I am drastically re thinking my idea to go with long tubes, mostly because of the starter clearance, I think I may build some shorties or maybe even some tri y's. I just dont want to have to remove the header to get to the starter...

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