DavyZ
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Posts posted by DavyZ
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I'm a "carb" and "analog" guy myself--just can't seem to get in to all of the EFI stuff right now. There is something raw and primal about gas sucking carbs, big&loud torquey motors and analog gauges...Gets the blood flowing, know what I mean?
I guess at the very most I would go with a Jacobs ignition system. That's about as complex as I would want it for now.
David
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Guys, I don't know if I have the "right" to answer for Terry, but he's not been in the forum for a few days. So, I'll let you know what I know about his ride from emailing him about 6 months ago:
His car body is his own creation--it's awesome! He did it in fiberglass over florist foam (the green stuff) that was shaped by sanding I believe. He encouraged me to do the same--nice guy!
The hood started as a fiberglass unit he found cheap and he went from there, designing the "GT-40" style hood. Awesome work, I'm telling you.
With all due respect to Terry, this information was from memory and is 6 months old. Sorry if I goofed, but me thinks me gots it all right.
David
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My advice is to pass them off on some unsuspecting person on one of the more "purist" Z sites. I know it's mean, but I honestly believe many of those guys don't care how bad Webers can be.
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Morgan, do you have the dual downdraft Webers or the side draft kind? I have dual downdrafts, but do not know how big they are. I would possibly sell them to you, but need to understand what you are looking for (I don't know much about Webers).
David
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By the way, the V8 and T5 should fit fine--getting it right is the hard part!
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KamakaZZi,
I do not want to discourage anyone from doing an engine swap, especially if it's your dream to do one. So, let's take a brief look at what you are about to do:
1) you are about to perform an engine swap from an American vehicle to a Japanese one. You must ask yourself if you have the time, money, and expertise to do it. Why? The swap you are contemplating has not, to my knowledge, been documented anywhere. Unless you are very good at fabricating you must have the money to pay someone to do it. Swaps are very expensive (typically) if you pay someone else to do it. Shops around here charge at least $70-$100/hr to do custom work.
2) Have you purchased and read (at least twice) the JTR book? This book is invaluable to put things in the proper perspective and forewarn you of the difficulties involved. This book documents the Chevy V8 swap for the 240/260/280Z's only, but it is a must read.
3) You will need to gather information on dimensions of the engine you are using, the dimensions of the car and its engine bay, the electrics and how the are compatible, the cooling system, its adequacy, if it will fit, etc.. This is not an easy task due to a lack of a "kit" or printed material.
Please realize that you are asking an open ended question on a subject that has many dimensions and categories. Most of us have done 1-2 swaps, maybe more, but mostly with the 1st generation Z's--there are kits, manuals, information, and people available. Ask yourself: Am I prepared to blaze the way for a new swap? Mega time and bucks in my opinion. Too many headaches for me. Maybe you are a mechanic, or an engineer, or wealthy. Cool! Go for it! Otherwise, get a Z that they make a kit for and go from there. It will save you from abandoning the heap in the middle of the project (no lost time, money, or embarrassment).
Please understand me, I AM NOT TRYING TO DISCOURAGE YOU! If this is your dream, forge ahead! And this is a very good place to ask questions. The pool of knowledge (an opinions) here in this forum is huge and friendly too. Before you leap, take a good look first. The research you do will help!
With all due respect,
David
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I am also doing a V8 Z conversion and I will probably go for an aftermarket harness soon. In addition to the companies mentioned, try looking in the street rodding magazines (the ones that deal with very old cars) and look for a system that covers each accessory you want to incorporate in your ride. I have heard good things about Painless, although I have heard they are pricey. If you do find a significant price range between companies, please post them.
Thank you!
David
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Dan, in my neck of the woods there did not seem to be a lack of Camaro radiators. I pulled mine out about a year ago, because I freaked when I found one, and then every time I go to the yard now I find 1980's Camaro's with the radiators in them! All the "pick-yur-part" type places are stripped, but the smaller less chaotic places seem have them. There are yards in Hayward and Fremont/Newark. I paid about $70 for mine--perhaps too much, but what the hey.
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Gerald, unless I'm mistaken, there is no formal documented swap for your year of Z. There was, however, a thread several weeks back with a URL of couple of guys doing such a swap--just pictures right now and a brief description--but no drawings of motor mounts or anything. Sorry.
Maybe there is someone else on this site that can help.
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Terry, I have a question for you. Assuming I have a cracked dash (very poor condition) and wanted to use something like carbon fiber to overlay the whole thing (for looks mostly) what would you use to smooth out the dash low spots like holes or wide cracks?
I know you have done fantastic fiberglass work on your cars, but I'm posing this question to you in hopes that you may know about the carbon fiber. Fiberglass and carbon fiber appear to be somewhat similar in the set up process, but carbon fiber is oh so much prettier.
Thanks,
David
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Al, it is I who should be more clear: I understand what you are trying to do, I looked at the door assemblies last year, asking myself, "could I just swap the doors from one car to the other?" At the time they appeared to be too different and had different latch assemblies. As Fast Frog said, you could possibly swap doors, but would have to also swap the latch mechanism from the parent car at the very least. And to make a long answer even longer, the only way to tell if the 280Z door fits in its external dimensions is to measure and compare each door. Sorry I can't give you the direct answer you are looking for--its been too long.
David
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike kZ:I don't know if you've driven a car with a vent like a Zcar, That you have to pull open? When you open it with the windows shut, very little air comes in, but if you crack open the window, it will blow in. So that's what that vent hole does, it eliminates the need to crack open the window. Which is nice when it's raining, or you don't want your hair messed up.
Mike kZ, yes I have a '74 260Z now with the same kind of vents (I shoulda made that clear from the get go) and was hoping to smooth the body at some point--no badges, no drip rail, no vent on b-pillar, etc.
Thanks for answering the question, though, I knew it was there for a reason, but wasn't too sure exactly what it did. Now I must rethink what to do with it...
Craig, it sounds like you have a nice idea and all, but since I'm such a cheapie, it makes sense to leave that part alone or eliminate it. I'll ponder it some more then decide. If I do the mod (and I may) I post what the results were.
DOH! Sorry, but the caffeine just kicked in and so has my brain: DUH! I'll duct tape the holes closed and make notes as to what the difference is in comfort, etc, and then decide what to do! I amaze myself sometimes...
David (the sleep deprived caffeine addict)
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Al, I tried switching window mechanisms last year with a 280Z door (I have an early 260Z) and as I remember, the door was different in several respects. The latch was different and so were all the internal guts. Better quality though...
Unless I am completely off here, they are not compatible. Anyone else care to post an opinion?
David
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Here's one for a few of you that have done this:
Is there any consequence to eliminating the round side (B-pillar?) vents on the 240Z?
I live in a typically warm, dry climate and have seen Terry Oxandale and a few others glass over or weld shut those holes. My car will spend most of its time on the street. Thanks guys!
David
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O.K. the 7 wasn't THAT bad, admittedly, and it was the one I owned. After contemplating a Chevy or Buick V6 swap for it from John's Cars, I decided that a Datsun Z V8 swap from JTR would be the way to go with all things considered.
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Not that one! My friend back in high school broke the u-joints in his Spit with a mildly stock motor. I once owned a miserable Triumph myself. Will not do it again!
Unless you are a dyed-in-the-wool British car fan, I can say from experience: RUN AWAY! LEAVE AS FAST AS POSSIBLE! JUST GO! GET OUT WHILE YOU CAN!
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Zfan,
I have an MSA full dash cover in my 260Z. I must say that overall, I am very happy with it and it has improved the appearance 100% over the old, ugly, cracked dash. I followed the instructions and hey, it worked like a charm.
The only thing I don't like about it is the fact that there is too little clearance for the dash light dimmer switch to rotate properly. This is not a problem, however, in that the stupid dash lights are too dim anyway even when fully illuminated! Just my $.02
David
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4.11 gears? Ouch! Hopefully they will have a (slightly) higher set and the low 4.11--not all of us want a drag strip car...
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WHOA! The side bars didn't help as much as you though they would? That blows me away -- when I think about how a chassis would bend under hard acceleration, I would expect the side bars to increase rigidity to the point that such a difference would make them them mandatory, in theory at least. Well, it looks like if I go the side bar route, then I'll put in a clevis joint to make the bars removable.
Thanks, Andy, for the archive story since it used real world experience to pass along helpful info.
David
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$300 is a reasonable sum. I want to see more info when this comes out. I'll be game for something like this for sure!
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Perhaps I missed it in this long thread, but what is the year of MR2 I should use for the strut carts? I remember sometime earlier some part #s, but what is the correct one?Don't mean to be a PITA, but I gots to know!
David
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Mike, doesn't your car have a relatively "stock" interior with the panels in place? Minor trimming or even major cutting doesn't bother me, it's exposed areas that do. Noise comes in, it's unsightly, etc. My goal is a car that is fun AND comfortable. Why? I have to sell my wifey on the concept of this V8 Z as well. "Sweetie, we can go to the wine country in the Z--think of the romance: just you and I (and Z makes 3)." See my point? A stripped interior is not for me. O.K. I'm a wimp, but we all want something different.
So, keeping as much of the interior intact appeals to me.
David
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Seems to me you could also stop a crack in your front windshield by drilling at the end of the crack...It would at least buy you some time before the whole thing falls apart.
CONVERTING SCARAB TO JTR?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Nah, your website is great! Love the pictures too! I need to download it and add it to my V8Z collection. You did a great job and you have the unique (or fairly unique) position of having had a Scarab Z converted to a JTR Z. Cool! I prefer not to make the Scarab mistake at all and go JTR ALL THE WAY BABY!!!!!!!!
Congrats on a cool site. All from this forum should peruse it.
David