DavyZ
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Posts posted by DavyZ
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Mike Kelly, correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm assuming that these wheels cannot fit within the stock wheel wells? Yes, no? I'm wondering if they are too wide and if they actually require flares or not. Depending on the width and offset of the wheel, then the adapter/spacer becomes all important!
David
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32000 cfm?!?! WOW! that is something of B-17 proportions!! Seriously, Sean, 3200 cfm is even more than the Black Magic fan. What did you pay for it? I'm personally going with the Taurus fan due to cost, but the fan is supposed to be effective. The Black Magic fan is nice and has a great cowl, but a bit pricey next to good junk...yard stuff.
David
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Andrew, that looks pretty tough! What are the wheel and tire size dimensions?
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Frank, if the oilpan is the extended type (sump is lower than stock) then you have got worries. If this is the type that extends out horizontally, it should fit fine wit no ground clearance issues. The only thing you want to make sure of is that your exhaust system will clear it on the sides--I'm 99% sure it will. Exhaust system already done, yes, no? When you change the pan make sure everything is spotlessly clean and use some Permatex sealer or something on the gasket. Also call up Moroso and ask them about the size of the end seals. Some pans feature the late types or the early types and if you get the wrong one, it will leak like a sieve!(sp?) or it won't fit and you could end up hurting the pan. Just be careful and everything will turn out fine. I swear by the gasket sealer...
David
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Well, nothing wrong with the MSA stuff, but you can do MUCH better. I don't have the urls, but definitely look at S&W race cars and also Chris Alston Chassis Works. Look for the threads in the archives and you'll find what you're looking for regarding opinions--eg. Craig (I think it was him) had put in a 6 point cage and was astonished at how much it stiffened up everything. I'm going with an 8 point cage myself with removable side bars. Maybe for your car a 6 point might be enough. From the sound of it, you are starting with a good solid chassis and that will make a world of difference at the beginning: no surprises! You'll want to call these places and talk to someone about your particular application, but these guys know what they are doing and should give you sound advice. Hopefully RossC will see this thread and chime in!
David
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Lone, I know what you mean, but the difference here is factory vs who knows what? Don't get me wrong, I'm not Mexico bashing and I totally agree with you. Factory stuff seems to be pretty good. I do hope that things have changed for the better regarding some of these rebuild places and that they are doing things in house. In my mind, it's easier to hold them accountable for an engine job if THEY did it themselves. Because I'll show up on their doorstep if I'm not happy.
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Mike, Welcome to the Forum! You will find this one of the friendliest places on the web for V8Z information.
With regard to your questions, here it goes:
The brakes on the ZX are o.k. but not great. Since you won't be running a lot of horsepower, maybe the only thing you'll need to upgrade are the pads. But then again, there are those who believe you can never have enough brakes--well, it's your butt to be sure! It sounds like you are going through the car system by system and upgrading the important things first. If you do go with larger brakes on the front (not a bad idea), look up one of the recent posts with scca (Mike) and plug in to his url--he most likely can help you.
Next, as far as stiffening the chassis, the question remains: are you installing a roll cage or at least a 6 point bar? If you are and you won't be racing it, then no, probably not. The ZX is better, IMHO, in terms of stiffness then the 1st gen cars and will not likely need stiffening. If the car is rusty and you are doing a wopping amount of work on it anyway, then take the extra time and do more. Hopefully others will chime in as well.
David
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Don't know about their reputation, but the price is right! Especially for 350 hp!
One problem we have around this part of the country is many of the remanufactured engines come from Mexico. My neighbor bought a Ford engine that ended up having to be rebuilt in a short period of time. He found things like that some of the valves were too long and someone had ground them down to make them fit. Amazing that the engine even ran well for a while despite that kind of Tom Foolery. Make sure they assemble the engines in house and ask for references. I would think any reputable shop could provide that.
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Good to have to you back, Chuck! Hope you're having fun with the car after all that work! Your car build up was one of the very first I read about when I became web savvy!
David
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We had this same thread about a month ago. It seems that members that used the system by Painless wiring were very happy with the results. Also, Ron Francis Wire Works was mentioned. Search the archives, etc. and you'll pull up the thread. Hope this helps!
David
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You might try posting this in the "Misc Tech" topics--you'll get better responses...
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The 750 gives you great bragging rights!!
A local engine builder here told me if I used anything larger than a 650 on anything under 383 cubic inches, I would actually hurt the performance of the motor I was using. He stated 650 is plenty of carb for up to 383 cubic inches. However, if I had a 12.5:1 drag racing motor...
David
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Perfect! Thanks, Long!
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I would pay the reserve for that car...good deal! Those are IMSA racing flares I believe, which are excessive, but with an engine to match....
David
Too bad its being auctioned off. Otherwise I could go down to the dealer and pound them for several hours and drive away in that thing for maybe less. What sickens me is that they probably gave some person a "wholesale" price for that car which may only be $1000. I wish had that car!
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WELL ALRIGHT!!!! Congrats on a job well done! If you had no problems when driving it to work, then you did good! Post pics when you can, I wanna see!
David
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The weight of a V8 should add maybe 100 lbs or so to the front of the car, which will not affect the difficulty in turning that much. What DOES affect it is tire width. Every car I have owned with wider tires and no PS has been increasingly difficult to turn the wheel while going slow or stopped. Or you could just do several months of intense steroid cycles and lots of weights to increase muscle mass on your arms
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Long,
I have been thinking what the best spring rate would be for a mostly street driven Z and I think you have answered my question. From your website it looks like your car is at the stock height, yes? Have you changed this? I'm wondering that if you have lowered the car more, are you scraping over any bumps in the road or ever bottoming out? I want the best of both worlds--handling as well as reasonable ride comfort.
Thanks, man.
David
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As long as you can mount it, you can keep it. Might require a bit of fabrication to keep the Nissan pump, but it should be ok. Another option would be to get a Chevy PS pump and have lines made to fit. Anyone else?
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Dave, are you using a Flowmaster Y-pipe for the junction? I think they are less than $40 at Summit.
David
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Kevin, I'm sure that bare minimum figure would be just keeping everything on the car bone stock...of course who can resist just some slight modifications...it's not too much more expensive for this one more mod, just one more mod, just one more...BOOM, there goes another $100, $200, $500...
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It's not the name!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have you had the opportunity to grab a good Italian made steering wheel? I'm in the car business and I get to drive lots and lots of cars--stock, modified, etc. Guys at work here have the sig series Grant wheels in their pick ups and Dusters, etc. Having been around both, and having owned the Italian one, I'll pay a bit extra to go with the euro-made wheels; they feel better and look better to me. I'm done.
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Kevin, you scare me....
Mike Kelly said he estimates a possibility of doing a conversion for as little as $2500. But can I, for example, just keep things simple? NO! I had to mess with the motor I bought; new cam & lifters, new intake, new carb, etc...Soon I was building a motor when I should have been building a car.
To answer your question, you must ask yourself "what do I want to accomplish?" If you keep everything as stock as possible here are some estimates:
1) Car--could be good buy, could be a heap. Get one with a bad motor and for $500-$1000 your good to go. If it comes along...
2) Engine--stock Chevy V8 from 1970s maybe $500-$700
3) Tranny--T5 or 700R4 maybe $500-$1000
4) JTR kit $300, radiator from yard $75, hoses from yard (yes used) $50, etc etc.
5) Fabbed exhaust $300-$500; driveshaft $100
6) Now you could be in the whole thing for $2000 to $4000 pretty quickly without taking into account all of those little odds and ends that just start to add up. Apply the basic rule that you will spend double what the given estimate is an you're there...
Go to Dave Booths website and see what his costs are...
I'm doing things on a very moderate budget and I look for deals. I'm cheap because I have to be, yet I will still build this car. This site gives me constant motivation and I'm glad for all the great guys and 1 gal that participate.
Just pursue the dream, but do it with a plan!
David
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I'm not dumping on the Grant steering wheels! Like I said, they have come a long way--and you are right, the signature series is beautiful, but when compared to some of the Momo wheels(with price taken out of the picture), I just can't help but choose the Momos.
David
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Please DON'T use the Grant wheel (no offence to those that have them), but I think they are much better suited to domestic product, not foreign cars. To be fair, Grant has come a long way, but the connotation of lesser quality still lingers in my mind--maybe yours too.
My nicest steering wheel was an all black Personal wheel on my Datsun 510. Perfect size, shape, looks, etc. The Momo wheels look good, especially the Momo "Race" steering wheel. The "Monte Carlo" is one of the cheapest Momos and looks OK, but their other wheels look better. You could also try looking at Italvolante steering wheels. The riceboy magazines like Sport Compact Car and the like are great places for these things. Nopi sells the stuff at good prices too.
David
PS Pete, I'm sure you know that the steering wheel in your car is the centerpiece of the interior. I was always happy with my expensive Personal steering wheel and never had any lack of compliments.
Please Help, Won't Start!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Love that sticky diesel fuel! Coats everything with an oily type stuff...
To start a stubborn engine, I use fast starting fluid from a spray can and let it go sraight into the open carb. Works great unless you get a backfire and blow out a power valve or singe your eyebrows. I use the stuff and it works quite well, but I'm definitely heads up when I use it, though. If you have cleaned your fuel lines and cleaned out the carb, there should be ignition.