DavyZ
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Posts posted by DavyZ
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This is supposed to be a bolt-on operation. There was a thread a while back and someone had done this with no problems whatsoever.
Ah, here is what the JTR manual has to say:
"The power brake booster from a 280Z 2+2 is larger than the 2 passenger Z car and offers about 30% more hydraulic pressure for a given pedal pressure. This unit will not fit in the earlier 240Z cars because the clutch master cylinder is positioned too close to the power brake booster. If you are using an automatic transmission, there is no clearance problem."
So, if you can even do this depends on which tranny you use. Hope this helps
David
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Evan is right! There was an article in Overboost.com in which they did a pretty extensive job of investigating the new "blue lights." The results were that the blue bulbs are a cheap rip off and even the so called "quality" ones like the PIAA's DO NOT actually put out more light. They do, in fact, put out a little less!! It's a simple law of physics, there is no free lunch and never will be!
Now, other than the possible legal aspects of these lights (they are NOT legal in CA or in most other states, period) if one upgrades to halogen lights with these blue bulbs, as opposed to running the original ones, then yes, there will be "more" light. They have a unique visual effect and on a Z they are interesting, but still illegal even though it's legal to sell them in stores! Kinda like, "Hey it's ok to own a gun, but illegal to fire it within the city limits or show it in public or conceal it while carrying it" (stupid laws in CA).
I don't have the link, but that article was from Overboost.com
I personally think HID (high intensity discharge) lights are awesome because they use the same light, apparently, as what happens when a flashbuld goes off--that bluish white light. Real ones run on VERY high voltage and are $$$. I'll have to settle for the fake ones if I do it at all, but I'll stick to "regular yellow" halogens from Hella or PIAA. That will be on the "finished" car. I'm happy at the moment to have Kragen Auto Sylvanias right now David
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Owen brings up a good point: do any trans tunnel work and undercoating work BEFORE doing the interior! I'll probably do it all at once anyway...
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Looking good, Chuck!
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quote:
Originally posted by zfan:This sucks,I guess im stuck with sanderson block huggersfor now.
Mike, what is it that you don't like about the Sanderson units? I was at a show last week and saw their stuff--looks like top quality IMO--pricey though.
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If you like the price on the Z, by all means purchase the car!!!!! The JTR method is not very expensive and you can even fabricate the parts yourself for cheap. Buy the car first, then the manual, then go to it!
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Eastwood makes "UnderGone" (no, not for underwear) which is a chemical undercoat removal product. It's not cheap like turpentine, but should work well. Part# 31130Z.
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Thank you, Joe, for making us all look slow
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Isn't the shifter in some funky place like coming out of the dash? Pretty weird, but then again, that's why I'm here...One of the car magazines this month has a slew of Corvairs in it (as Pete alluded to) with V8s. The one with a removable top is fabulous and some of them look pretty mean all fixed up, lowered with wide tires, etc.
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Evan, those Montes look better IMO than your other wheels! They are so much cleaner looking and really add to that clean Datsun 240Z design. We want more pics!!!!!!
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I'll do fine with the 160mph unit, thank you very much! I like the looks of the new guages and now I know which way to go!!!
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WOW! I can appreciate this, but I'm not sure I completely understand it. Bottom line is, 0-60mph under 5 secs is fast, and under 4 is insane! You are in the low 3's!!! You may need a neck restraint or something at the track, Scottie.
If I can get my Z to do 0-60mph in under 5 secs, I'll do a Snoopy dance of joy and then blow away every riceboy in town.
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You will do much better if you buy a car that is not advertised by some specialty car place--we have a few around here in the SF Bay Area and they are ALWAYS over priced IMO. Myron's car looked to be every bit as nice as that and his was faster (I think) before the recent engine swap. Be patient and keep looking, or build it yourself.
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Good advice, Scottie, and I have to agree with you on that. There certainly needs to be an upgrade with respect to the brakes, even if it's the Toyota 4X4 upgrade. Not too expensive and seems to work well!
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And you only paid how much for those wheels???? Man, they look good!
David
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If you can get $17K for the car, do it! First buy the JTR V8 conversion manual and read it cover to cover at least twice. As Morgan pointed out, you can easily purchase a V8Z for much less than $17K ($3000-$7000) and still have money left over. Or, you could build one yourself. One thing many guys do is drop too much engine in their project before ever riding in a "mild" V8Z in the first place. There are quite a few V8Z cars out there in TX; see if you can hook up with someone first to get a good idea of the direction you want to go.
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I want to find out if the Naphtha is as good as it's supposed to be. Although, I do have plenty of carb cleaner around if the need to use the stuff ever arises...Fortunately, none of my cars has window tint and they never will!
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Finally, I can comment on something I know a bit about. Mike, there are 3 ways of getting off window tint--I personally hate the stuff, because glass is not commonly smoked from the factory anymore and all ghetto cars seem to have the stuff which now looks cheap and longer classy...
1) The Razorblade Method. This is what our car dealership employs to get the stuff off. Use only the flat part of the blade, never a corner, to get it off. Get a special handle from the hardware store or tool store to get more leverage. This is a long and tedious process, but if you have decent glass, it should clean up nicely.
2) The "Easy-Off" Method. This is potentially harmful to your car and your health, but was employed by some of my "smarter" collegues at UCD. Take masking tape and tape off all surfaces around the window. Spray oven cleaner on the tint and let sit for a while until film bubbles or shows signs of comming off. Take a razor blade and scrape of residual plastic film tint. Don't ever breathe this stuff when spraying and use gloves! Although I have not employed this method, it apparently works.
3) The Car Craft Method. Yes, the magazine actually had a good article on removing the stuff, and the procedure goes as follows: (try to follow me here) On a very sunny day or the summer, take soapy water and wet down the tint inside the car. Immediately take 1 layer of a black trash bag and squeegy it over the tint so that it sticks with no or very little air pockets. After doing this keep the car closed and in the full sunlight. The heat of the sun on the closed car is supposed to make the tint adhere to the trash bag after 2 hours(?) and should be easily removed! I'm almost sure I remember this all, but anyone else is free to comment.
Hope this helps you. Just judge what will work best for you. Anyone else?
David
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Darius, did your PermaCool fan have a shroud or not? I know that the Black Magic fan has one which makes it very effective...
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Lone: you crack me up, man!
Pete: I have to agree with you. The more I thought about what John said, the more it did not make sense. If force is translated from the main hoop forward, then down the side bar, it will continue down toward the "kink," and down from there to the front footwell area AND to the bar going down back to the base of the main hoop. Yes? If it doesn't work in reality, I'm going back to UC Davis and demand a refund!
David
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You will certainly need a lot of information on the electrics of both the donor and recipient vehicles. First thing I would do is purchase a factory manual for the RX7, in addition to having a Haynes manual etc. Also I would measure, measure, measure, and fully document everything. You have great intestinal fortitude for going to where few have ventured before...
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Craig, I somehow remember having this very conversation about three months ago?
The "kinked" sidebar is a very interesting idea; I have seen a Porsche 914 with a "kinked" sidebar and was impressed with the amount of room it afforded the owner to get in and out of the car for daily driving. As has been stated by Pete, if you tie into the loop base from the kinked part with another tube, there should be minimal loss of rigidity. Now, whether this is up to competition spec or not, who knows? I have decided to go with a "swing-out sister" bar, but I'm making mine removable. I will only put it in when in competition (like every nite) driving. Do you know if you are going with S&W or Chassis Works or what? At this juncture, I'm probably going with Chassis Works even though they are more expensive...what am I saying?!? I'll call them and find out which is the best for the money and for what I want to do and then make a decision.
David
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Dude, you can just overlay it with carbon fiber...and yes, that would look great. Go to www.bryanf.com and go through his site. You'll end up seeing the most awesome 510 buildup and also a great page on making carbon fiber interior panels. One of the pictures shows a carbon fiber dash. Wow! I emailed Bryan and let him know it almost looked like the stock dash had a layer of carbon fiber on it. He said, "exactly." I don't see why this couldn't be done with the rear exterior panel as well
David
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YEAH, BUT WE'RE GOOD TOO, BABY!!!!
Great idea, Craig, about the POR-15! Another good product is Eastwood's Caroless(sp?). I think the POR-15 is great because it spreads very easily as some have stated previously.
started coilovers, scca mike is the man!
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Welcome to the forum Kent! I like your website, too! I was wondering when we would get some bruddas from the islands. Bummer about the speed limit though. At least on Kauai there is that looong highway that goes far around the island--too many tourists to do real racing, but what the hey...
David