dead2me

just take pictures if you need to, and keep all parts arranged as you remove them, shims etc.... replacing a carrier is easy as you aren't having to set the pinion depth, only the backlash.... take your time, and post any questions... any of us are happy to help I am sure... I know I am....

perhaps some of us are old-school, but so many wheels now look like christmas ornaments to me.. no definition, just rolling blobs of chrome.... a polished lip with satin or black spokes just seems to stand out more and give a clint eastwood look to your ride... do you feel lucky punk? well do ya?

I have not priced that kind of work in a while... I am too stubborn to pay someone else to do it as I usually prefer buying the tools to accomplish such a task resulting in an expansion of not only my tool collection, but my vocabulary as well. I think though that even though it may not be necessary, there's something to the visual value of looking under a car and seeing the cooling fins on the LSD-only rear cover., kind of like a girl with nifty cleavage Do you need all of it? nah... do you want to see it? of course you do........ If I had it to do over though, I would probably just buy the brand-spanking-new power brute... Have not set up one of these R200's yet, but I will let you know as I will be going through the pair that I bought..... nothing like installing something just to find out that you have to pull it back out because something wasn't right..... So the only down sides to the power brute are 1. having to install it and set the backlash, which isn't a big deal on other diffs, which you were going to check as well as breakaway torque settings on a new or used diff, weren't you? and 2. not having the spiffy finned diff cover.... it's all a matter of preference.. I don't think anyone will be checking our your diff cover though as you are pulling away from them........ and besides, your exhaust system will likely be obscuring the view of it anyway....

http://www.precisiongear.com/powerbrute.htm bargain at 505.00 unless you can find a nice R200 LSD in good shape..... phantom grip may work temporarily, but seems like a baling wire and duct tape solution..... and yes, this has all been discussed in the forums before...

are you running a ballast resistor? most point sets will not endure long bouts of 12 volts applied to them, so they use a ballast resistor that cuts the voltage down to a lower level.. If you don't run one your points normally won't live that long.... just a thought..... A fresh set of points should last longer than 15 minutes before flaking on you but if you are buying chun-king parts, one never knows... Do you have good ground straps running from the engine to the frame or body of the vehicle? Improper or inadequate grounding can cause strange issues with electrical and ignition systems.... just some things to check as you have changed everything else.... What kind of carb are you using? Assuming it is a holley, but which model? Also, are you using a mechanical or electric fuel pump? I had a walbro pump years ago that would get hot and the pressure would droo off completely or at the very least, down to 1-2 psi when it got hot..... didn't take too long for it to get hot either... If you have a guage on it you can get it hot and then check the pressure to see.... What kind of a coil did you replace it with, and do you have it wired correctly? Some coils will operate when you connect the leads backwards, but won't operate very well... hopefully you will get it figured out...

Yes, angle plugs can make more power, as long as they are moving the plug's firing tip closer to the exhaust valve, and yes, they can cause fitment issues with some styles of headers Like anything else, it can be give and take. On most of my engines, the angled plugs make it easier to get to the plugs for changes etc.... with block-hugger headers, you normally have to ensure that they will fit properly ahead of time, depending on the design of the tubes for the end cylinders 1,7,2 and 8. for the center cylinders, it make it easier because the plug is angled away from the primary tubes..... all a matter of preference really... If a straight-plug head has the plugs moved closer to the exhaust valve, then it will realize the same performance benefit as an angled plug, but then you are getting the plugs closer to the center tubes which can make plug changes more interesting as well as increasing the likelihood that you may barbecue a wire boot.... Also keep in mind that if you are wanting to run larger tube headers, especially block-hugger style, the angle plug design will do a better job of keeping the plugs on the center cylinders clear of the header tubes, but may increase the likelihood that you will have interference on the end cylinders.....

When the first angle plug heads were introduced by Chevrolet, there was no real difference. Then, engineers moved the location of the plug towards the exhaust valve, which improved flame propagation. By moving the position of the spark plug in “straight†heads, similar gains were realized. It was easier to move the spark plug closer to the exhaust valve via an angled plug, than by a straight plug.

not an urban legend here... lost a flywheel and clutch and it came through the floor on a first gen camaro. It sheared the rod in two that the accelerator pedal connects to about 1 inch above the pedal itself while my foot had it on the floor.. those rods are about 3/8 in diameter, nothing plastic there... ripped holes in the firewall that cats could, and did, jump through... spread the headers out against the frame on both sides and pushed the steering shaft over into the driver's side frame rail. Another large piece came through the heater box and turned it into scrap metal ripping right through the heater core. When I opened the hood, there was absolutely nothing between the back of the block and the front of the doug nash 5 speed, it had even sheared the input shaft and bearing retainer clean off, and it had also sheared off every bolt that held the flywheel to the crank as well as breaking off the back of the block where each of the top two bellhousing bolts went into it. Suffice it to say, I will never use a factory bellhousing again unless I am just commuting in the car... Very expensive lesson. The worst part was that I had my scattershield out assembling everything with a new engine combo, so the accident didn't really have to happen. Lakewood makes good bellhousings, but they don't make good replacement legs and feet... I feel pretty fortunate to still have my right foot. The piece that took out the acc. pedal rod went straight up cutting a hole in the firewall until it hit the master cylinder, and it left some impressive toothmarks in that from the teeth on the ring gear. You should have seen the pavement under the car where it went off.. .Nice chunk blown out that you can still see 13 years later... dont become known as stumpy, spend the money on a good bellhousing.

Precision Gear makes a PowerBrute 4 Pinion Clutch-Type LSD carrier for the R200 with 12mm ring gear bolts... 603 plus shipping... Brand new.. http://www.precisiongear.com/powerbrute.htm LOM59-12 R200 W/12MM BOLTS ALL 29

Maybe you guys could double-check the functionality of the search engine. I too have searched many times and received no results on that very question. Don't forget guys, nothing works perfectly every time, and you were new once too... tolerance and a little bit of guidance can go a long way... just wait until you start your new job and no one has patience to show you things you need or want to know.... >