rudypoochris
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Posts posted by rudypoochris
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more leverage is the reason that comes to mind....
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wow 78 u-joints are not removeable? maybe thats why it took us so long with no results...t hats weird though because we had the u-joint clips ont he r-200 and removed them... then we hit it with a sledge, tapped with nromal hammers, and basically beat bones gaianst it like monkeys in front of an obelisk... what are we doing wrong or are these simply permanent u-joints sorryf or post hi-jack
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ahha i bought from him too, and no 505 is correct will be 544 after everything... he raised his prices (i guess from weaker dollar) used to be 469 i think
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240z weighs about 2300 curb with a 225hp stock 302 from alot of 90's stangs you would pretty much be at 10lb/hp which is a good spot, note: i think the 302 is acctually lighter then the I-6 it is replacing so bonus on that.... tranny may be heavier...
plus the 302 got room to grow... gt-40 heads and x303 or e303 cam you will see 340hp and 305 lb/ft i think not positive. Also you can always buy a $1895 300hp, $2095 320hp, or a $2395 340 hp long block 302 from centralcoastmustang.net i have never bought any but they seem cheap for what they are.
So id say go with the 240z, first gen's have less amenities but if your drag racing.....
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im getting two 92' rear 240sx calipers one has a torn dust boot (i think thats what they are called.... the thing that keeps dust out of the piston....) so i think ill just buy a disc hardware kit from autozone for that and paint those red too.
then we willbe autobahnstormen -
ive been papering them... they are my babies... now onto the rears 240sx calipers but the problem is it seems damn hard to find a rear rebuild kit does anyone else have luck or is it okay to simply use them if the seals seem intact? also rebuilt ones cost like 65 a side :S plus 60 core
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uh are the wires yout alkign about the two metal clips seperating the pads int he picture...? and are you sure im missing something, if so please send me a picture.... if my slider pins are straight enough to fit threw but not perfectly straight is that okay or they should be changed any way? thanks!
also on autozone.com i found a "CALIPER BOLT/PIN" but no slider pin are these the same thing?
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can anyone answer my question about the pink highlighted pins i think they are called, what part are they? if they are not straight must they be replaced or are they okay as long as they are relatively straight and can fit in?
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hahaha maybe the same seller seems to have an infinaesupply just search s12w and they will always be there
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i think its more like 70 a piece lemme ccheckyou might be thinking 12-8
ok it is $40 per calipers but also a $70 core charge per caliper as well... so if you have no calipers to start with your looking at $220 to get rebuilt ones....
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Hey owen i was wondering if the dash cap from msa will cover a gouge that is 1/4 inch wide and sticks about an 1/8 of an inch up (plastic warped) to installt he cap i would simply sand the plastic flat? Thanks!
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"Dupli-Color" Red caliper paint kit... the brush on kind. the box for 14.99 came with: paint, paint brush, masking tape, brake cleaner, and a stick to stir the paint. It was cheap and the right color so far so good.
I got it at kragens -
I finished cleaning up my toyota 4 piston s12w:
to......
talk about matching the color to the tokico springs!!!! 5 hours of decreaser whew then painting... (yes i know i could of put it threw a parts washer shhhh!)
now im just wondering what parts i need to rebuild... i ordered the piston seals, boot retainers, and caliper dust boots, plus anti rattle clips... what else might i need? i have a feeling i will need new ones of these seeing as they were bent.... look in pic below:
the things i highlighted pink are called???? caliper pins? i wasn't sure so i didn't order these... so any way i was jsut wodnering other than what i have ordered what should i order? (already ordered: piston seals, boot reatiners, dust boots, and anti rattle clips)
thanks!
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will early 280z stub axels work (from a drum braked 280? around 76-77) cuz thats where i got the r200 from
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i found a z31 clsd to put into my r200 it is just the center.... will this bolt up to my u-joint style 240z half shafts? thanks!
(sorry if this is a repeat but i need to know fast and have to leave right now)
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i drive a tan ford explorer 92' xlt 5-speed
what izzz it. my datsun is a 240z though and i am thinking 17X8 wheels using the 4X4.5" pattern they are hard to find though... i liked a couple i saw from exel wheels and some from sportmax... thats "sportmaxwheel.com"... always could go for some reqinds too but lots of people got them. i would put them in 235 yokahama A046 or Parada Spec-2's -
If i know the car is going to sit for about a year before its done should i still rebuild the brakes right away? (they wont see fluid until the end of that year is up)? I heard people saying it is not good to leave brakes sitting but i think thats with fluid in them right?
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thanks man! do i need tow orry about getting the liquids on the seals and the pistons while the brake caliper is uninstalled (the pads will be changed and the seals will probably be changed any way)?
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I just got my s12w toyota 4x4 front brake upgrade in the mail and was simply wondering where to find a rebuild kit? call up toyota dealer? and does anyone know the cost for these things... ? thanks!
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does any one know what products should be used?
thanks!
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Just wondering is the MSA front 4 piston normal calliper upgrade is superior to the s12w or if it is worse? Same for the rears MSA uses 84 maxima callipers where MM uses 240sx. Which is better?
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yah i figured this much from looking at them...... the tread is amazing i could stare at it for hours.... so simple yet so efficent any way more info on the parada's in for dry stip and dry cornering?
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I was wondering the same thing as him but i was also considering Yokohama Parada Spec-2's any one else thinking about these/own these? I would really like to know how they perform. But other then that my friend who races honda CBR's (bikes) says euro rubber is the best. (ie metzler/pirelli)
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intrested but alas i dont have that money and i got a 1st gen..... o well the datsun is pretty enough as it is, right
then we willbe autobahnstormen
Can't get my u-joints out!
in Drivetrain
Posted
OMG i can't get the u joints out of the half shaft knuckles its on a r200 from a 76-78 280z can't remember the exact year, we got the clip ring things off and hit it with a rubber mallet till we were blue in the face, do we need to lube it up or is this a non-removable u-joint like ive been hearing about recently?