rudypoochris

First off, sorry if this is in the wrong sub, it’s been 15+ years since I’ve been active here and not sure where this fits since it’s more than just motors/drivetrain. I have a Ford 5.0L Z that I got running, but never reliably, and am now looking to turn attention back to it since there’s a lot of good work on it (photos attached). What I am thinking to do is go electric and could use some feedback and thoughts from those who have either done this or thought about it. My desires: - Minimal hacking to subframe/body, keeping it longitudinal mount with the existing rear end (R200 3.7 CLSD) or swapping to a transverse setup only if there was something obvious/simple. - Target 50-65 kWh of battery and 225 kW or more (300hp to 450hp would be the sweet spot). - Try and keep the build under $20k and weight added under +200lbs vs current setup (Ford V8, T5, gas tank) - 120mph top speed or more These are the options that seem to be coming up highest on my list for motors: 1. Use the Lexus GS450H transmission. My understanding is this is 225 kW rated and can be bought for about $1500. Downside is the weight of the transmission is 250lbs+ and the gearing is a 2.29:1 with a 10,300rpm max. With my setup that would be around a 92mph top speed. This setup would also require welding MG1 and some other complexities. 2. Use a Cascadia Motion IM-225DX-D and Torque Trends 1.9:1 reducer. This setup would get 225 kW and a 128mph top speed, but the motor is $14k MSRP and the gear box another $4k. I’ve found a wholesale motor/inverter for $5k but it wouldn’t be warranted. This setup seems objectively better than the Lexus setup but is a minimum $9k to just get going period. Any thoughts for motors? For batteries: I am thinking either to go with: 1. VW ID4 12S modules with 9 of them which is about 400 volts total and 61.2 kWh. The modules are relatively cheap around $750/ea but they are LG Chem cells and those packs have always been surrounded with the possibility of recall and fire. I am not sure how to do the BMS at all, and the interactions with the VCU/inverter so that’s another issue. 2. Kore Power modules which are available in a 4S configuration. I would do 26 or so of them with chiller plates. Downside is cost close to $16k for the batteries, benefit is that there are integrations already for these packs and they’re meant to be used for kits. 3. Do something with Tesla packs or other… Any thoughts on batteries? Thanks for the input!

Looking for a 240z fiberglass/carbon hood and/or fiberglass bumpers. I am located in the San Francisco bay area. Thanks, Chris

Still looking...

Looking for a 240z ebrake handle. The plastic on mine has cracked. Thanks, Chris

Awesome, thanks!

Hello, Looking for a pair of window regulators (without glass). Would need to have unstripped splines for the window crank and be in general working order. Also looking for a drivers side door handle with the hardware down to the lock (push rod, handle, and hinge thing). Please send PM shipment or pickup would be in nor Cal. Thanks, Chris

Flat plane? That'd be new... they got a way to go on the specific output to hit that power.

That was before the bubble. $600 in 2010 isn't $600 now. I get the point though, and I do regret letting it go if for nothing more than the fact that its a hassle shipping that stuff around. Thoughts on the one piece version?

Yikes! $2200 a good deal? I regret selling my two piece gnose for $600. You can buy a one piece here for $650, but I don't like the flare out on the lower edges. Guess I could cut it and trim. http://zforceproductions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=50&Itemid=68

Want to buy a G nose for an S30. Please send PM. Thanks!

Yeah its been a while, thanks for the welcome!

Yeah. My 335i makes 500 crank horse off 3L 10:1 with stock cats, an intercooler, a tune, and 50% mix of E85. Can do more but the turbos wouldn't last as long. Direct injection is amazing.

That's awesome. We would need a FRPP stand alone for the DI also since very few standalones support that. I don't think this is the platform for it since the power would be too much, but a 5.0L DI with E85 and twin turbos would be... well into the 1,000 hp range on over 10:1 CR.

I just got my Ford 302 running and drove it for the first time this weekend. It was awesome, but got me thinking about the current gen of motors. I can't seem to figure out how to hyper link here, but there is a good article on Hotrod Magazine's website that talks about swapping the Coyote motor. I think it would fit being only 5" wider than an SBF. On my car I have already relocated the oil filter and put a U-Joints in the steering shaft. The oil pan may be a concern, but that is an easy fix. Very interesting indeed. Too bad it isn't direct injected though. If it had direct injection, that would be the icing on the cake.

Wow. Terrible news. Bought the first parts for my car from him when I was 15 now 10 years ago (coil overs) and for the first time this past weekend we drove it. Really saddened to hear this. Rest in peace.

I am in. I have the JSK rears and stupidly got rid of my parking brake mechanicals under the car. What would I need cable wise to get this to work? Can you confirm those are 12.2"x0.81" disks (my calipers are Forged Billet Superlites and look different than yours)? Thanks for taking the lead on this. 1. Rudypoochris 2. 3. 4. 5.

Ill take it. PM sent!

Looking for a complete functioning lock set with matching keys (ignition switch, doors, hatch). Thank you, Chris

Hey Guys, I know I have a 302 240z, but am actually asking about WAI (water/alcohol injection) as it pertains to my other car - an N54 335i. I hope you guys will help me out with this non-hybrid. I just got this built and running and my results were not really what I expected. I think the information here will be applicable to HybridZ as well. At least that's what I hope. Base setup: 2008 335i N54 Coupe Compression 10:1 with direct injection running 50-50 E85/91 mix Boost set to 17.5 psi (stock is 7.5 or so) so way off the map making 430whp After market intercooler and tune, no other modifications (stock DPs) Currently limiting boost to save turbos. I am NOT octane limited at this time and could probably hit 19-20psi without losing significant timing Turbo Tout is probably in the 350F range Adding WAI: I went with a Wannaspeed kit I modified. Two nozzles one in each cone filter injecting into 60mm intake tubes which have bends and such for about 2 feet before entering the turbos. The 50% meth/water mix is driven from a trunk mount tank with a check valve on the air line. Flow is measured using an Aquamist sensor with 100-1500ml/min scale (half graph is 750ml/min or so). Preturbo meth is triggered by boost switch at probably 8psi (just setup last night). Pictures: First Results: I ran the car with and without the meth water running last night. I used the exact same map and ran within 5 minutes of eachother. On the no meth run I was going downhill, on the meth run I was going up hill. The intercooler is heat soaking way quicker with meth on presumably since the specific heat of the meth air mix is much greater than air only. No meth: Meth: The curve to look at specifically (at least I believe) is "PWM". PWM refers to the duty cycle of the wastegate as controlled by the car. More PWM means the wastegate is held more shut. You can see PWM spike during spool up and rise the RPMs increase and the turbo is working harder to supply the required boost. In both logs, PWM is nearly identical. That is to say despite pouring 600-700 ml/min of meth water into the intake, the amount of work the compressor is doing has not dropped. I thought it would since the WA mix should be sucking up heat during compression leading to more air out of the compressor per turn (higher efficiency). Am I thinking about this wrong? Am I set up wrong? Should I try biasing more water or more meth? Maybe the mix has completely atomized before the compressor due to my long intake tract? Thanks guys, Chris

Are there just no gold wheels available or something? After seeing the black and gold I have kind of decided to hang onto them. Haha. If you guys are serious I can ask Kim to order them?

What tires would you run? I chose 17" so that we could fit street and track tires. I am not aware of street tires for that width in 15".

We want it to be running by end of November. We have made significant progress. Everything is done for it to run minus the engine/dash electrical. Once it is running I will finish the interior/exterior out here in the Bay. My E92 335i is doing 430whp though btw. Gotta love that.

I did not realize RK-R existed. I wish I could see the two next to each other. I think the RK-R look is closer to the Watanabe and represents what I was going for back when I started this group buy. I am waiting to hear back from Rota on a forged wheel. I think if new molds are being made it makes sense to make them in RK-R and not RB-R. Anyone have pictures of a 17" RK-R on a small car like the Z? My only real reservation is that it would look out of place at sizes past 16".

With the aftermarket fiberglass dash? Do you have links to pictures? Thanks

Out of curiosity, has anyone had reliability issues with this wheel? Cracking or otherwise? Also, what kind of interest is there in a forged version of this?