goodoldjam
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Posts posted by goodoldjam
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thats a compliment!!
That was actually a question I had on my mind. I would like to know clearance between the quarter.
Obviously a 3 piece would need the closest fitment. Looking at the one piece I do have it does have some clearance built into it. Things flex and body lines vary.
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the forgotten thread....anyone with any new findings or pics?
Only thing I found was it would be just as easy to weld a separate wastegate flange to the manifold. Still need a spacer for the T4 cold side though. The flange on the adapter had my wastegate dumping towards the DP, made it a pain to make a screamer pipe, would work well if you wanted to return it to the exhaust.
Not much to talk about, you have to weld the adapter to the manifold. I think just a spacer and adding a separate flange would probably cost about the same and wouldn't be much harder.
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I was told by John C. that certain events call for certain wheel size and he mentioned that SCCA ITS calls for a 15x7 size wheel. I also do not want to roll the fenders, so the decrease in width will help me accomplish that.
Makes sense, definitely helpful knowledge.
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The backspacing will be a little more than 3.5" since your measuring to the outside of the rim. I haven't really measured for wheel fitment but with those 8" wide rims you may have been able to get something with a slightly positive offset and cleared it just fine. Like a +13mm would move the wheel a 1/2" in, that's if you have enough clearance behind it.
Why do you want to go 7" for the track?
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Yeah you could get a tire stretched on, that may give you some extra room. I always thought that was a little goofy, when people take it to far.
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I'll have have a dyno tuned map pretty soon, using cygnusx1's map right now which is dang good.
I wont be pushing more than 8psi on this map though, kind of a waste but hey I want to take it slow. I have so many other things I need to do before I go farther. That's going to include DDing it a bit, I need to get used to the late boost. Wont help you much because I'm running the stock cam.
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I been using some phosphate but only for ultra fine pitting then I sand it back off the clean metal. I try to get everything down to clean metal if I can.
I do have some Epoxy etching primer, it isn't buildable at all. I would still need to put something buidable on top of it.
I don't trust the primer to take care of the rust but at the same time I don't want to spray it over the top of a car covered with the spray on Phosphate. The job of the primer is to adhere to metal.
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Yeah, positive or negative from center of the rim.
This should get you going on how to figure out backspacing.
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6k isn't bad, the tail lights don't fit into its valuation.
I seen a original, probably as close to perfect as you can find going for 13k about 5 years ago.
I don't put much into what the book value is, No matter what it says people will only pay so much.
There are always plenty of project Z's for a quarter of the price.
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The offset doesn't look right. Looks like it would be better suited for a FWD, +42.
I'm sure someone has used TE37's with something like a Zero offset.
They don't seem to list a 16" that would be right for a Z http://www.upgrademotoring.com/wheels/te37.htm
These guys have a Fitment guide for the TE37's. 240z is at the bottom.
http://www.upgrademotoring.com/wheels/volk_fitment/nissan.htm
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The pedal should be set to whatever the FSM says, like 8.5" or whatever it is. Do you have a threaded slave?
If the pedal is all the way out something is wrong. I ended up replacing my master and slave, the clutch fork was cracked at the pivot. After replacing all that I found it was actually a bad pressure plate.
Start looking at your master and slave maybe bleed them for good measure.
If they check out all right then it starts becoming a pain.
I think there is a measurement for slave travel when the pedal is fully depressed, I remember measuring that while someone depressed the pedal.
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I added 280zx vents to my hood, I didn't much like the 280z style. Excuse the dirt and rust, it's waiting for me to do some repair.
They are mounted with tabs with strips of rubber. So they are semi adjustable.
They work though you can feel the heat pouring out.
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The best weld I got out of the little HF welder, was actually when I welded on a wastegate adapter to the cast steel turbo manifold.
I should have taken a picture of it because I'll probably never see that again.
Sheet metal doesn't weld to well, you want it to penetrate so you can grind it smooth. Then you have to deal with it blowing through. I have become pretty creative with how I weld sheet metal.
I've ran about 8lbs of wire through the welder so far and there are some issues with it.
You have little heat control and it doesn't feed smoothly even if you have it hot enough. Probably would be a worthwhile investment to run gas with it, if you get a model setup for it.
I figure it's a backyard hobby welder, works good for exhaust.
And the HF wire was very bad...It's like welding with normal wire with no gas.
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Ok just got back, today was just for recon. I found a 240SX with a complete hub to hub rear suspension. After looking at it I'd love to just make a couple attachment points for the whole rear cradle and just bolt it in per say although we know it would be a lot more complicated than that. It did have a finned diff cover but I didnt get down and get any numbers off it. There were 3 Q45's that had 6 bolt cv's and finned diff covers years ranged all in the early 90's and all had 160,000 miles plus. All had v8's as well. There were a couple 260's and a couple of 280's all with rear suspensions. Left today with a hatch with glass for 36 bucks woo hoo. My hatch was full of bondo and the neighbors kid shot out the back glass with a bb gun.
I think the VLSD in the 240sx is a 4.08.
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HF welder will do the job. I'm doing a patch with a HF welder right now, it doesn't do a great job but it does work. Basically you do a quick tap and let off and do another before if cools and just repeat. That's the only way to get good heat control with 4 settings. I like running it hot, like Max 1 wire speed 3.5. Then i just do that tap method so I don't blow through.
It's a pain to do and slow but I haven't found a better way, it's either to cold or to hot.
Try to build off the initial weld and move to the other side, it's hard to explain but you can do it.
JB weld could be a decent option also.
Long strand fiberglass filler may also be a option.
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I wouldn't spend all that money just to get into a short nose Viscous LSD.
I don't know why you wouldn't notice a difference with IRS, it's pretty easy to break traction with one wheel.
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Well picked it up. Had a quite bit a rust in it, good thing was it was off a running car. So the rust was pretty equal over the whole tank. He recommended Muriatic Acid, but I just went ahead and picked up some POR-15 marine clean, Plus the metal prep and tank sealer. I broke out the pressure washer and added the marine clean to it and from what i can see it's almost spotlessly clean metal now. I'm going to finish off with some boiling water and marine clean mix just to make sure the parts i can't see are clean as possible.
It's looking good real fast though.
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Well NAPA carries this for the high heat spots. http://www.napaautoparts.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7353959_0282514679
Says sleeve but it's actually adhesive backed.
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This maybe the program your looking for.
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Thanks for the info Tony, I'm planning on taking a good flashlight and maybe a mirror and seeing whats going on inside. I'm kinda in between a Fuel cell or a bolt on tank.
I talked to him a bit and seems like a honest guy and is going to hook me up with some quarter panel pieces for a decent price.
I think he's up in air as far as internal condition, as most people probably would be.
pick-axe holes, yep that's exactly what they are. I wondered why they couldn't just take the time and take out the plug.It wouldn't deter me either, because I don't see the amount of early Z's i use to.
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I'm getting the feeling I should pick it up. He said it does have a dent, but i really did expect it to have at least one. The only other question is internally like you said Tony, any kind of rust is going to kill the deal.
I should of snagged all the junkyard tanks i could find when i had the chance. Problem is my yards like to poke holes in them instead of opening the drain plug.
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That's high if your driving to pick it up. I got mine for free but I see them every once in a while in good condition for no more than $75.
That sounds like a fair price.
I offered him a $100 and he said he was firm. So I told him I would go $150 if it was dentless and totally rust free. No email back yet but for $150 I was thinking it should look almost new. I hate it when someone says make an offer but is firm when you make one.
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I took they car for a spin after getting the new turbo and wastgate on to see how much boost the spring was going to produce. Well it is running very strong at 8psi. I'm thinking it pulls to hard with the stock 240z tank and it flat cuts out. So I found a tank locally but the guy wants $150 for it.
I don't know, that seems a bit high IMO.
What do you guys think?
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That is looking very slick.
So I'm guessing all the fittings fitted. Looks great so far.
pick-axe holes, yep that's exactly what they are. I wondered why they couldn't just take the time and take out the plug.
Forced induction USING air compressor?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted · Edited by goodoldjam
Why not, if you can store enough compressed air. I still would like to see it go 200miles like they claim.
I should say 200km, that makes more sense. Either way I would like to see it do 200km, a 124miles is still plenty.