goodoldjam
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Posts posted by goodoldjam
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You need to consider cost, source some premade 4" mandrel bends and open up that wallet. I can get 3" mandrel bends for a decent price. Go Crush bent 4" and you may as well say goodbye to the diameter advantage.
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This is sitting still for about 15-20 minutes, since I'm still working out bugs. On a 90degree day with no intercooler and the stock T3 I seen temps that hit about 190deg, which was very close to the engine temp. Today it's 80 and now with a Intercooler with the stock T3, It was at 90 degrees and then I watched it climb to 115deg before I shut it off. If you felt the intercooler after running for that long it's hard to believe that it's reading 115.
I'm thinking while moving that temps would be much closer to ambient Temps.
My IAT is directly behind the TB.
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Helpful sticky,
I thought I was having reset issues and it looked just like every other log, turns out not to be the case.
Acceleration enrichment was set to TPS and for some reason it is spiking. It basically was flooding for a split second and returning to normal. After doing that enough times the plugs would begin to foul and make it run even worse. Switched over to MAP based and problem stopped instantly.
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There is already a very exhaustive thread on this. How is that Jacobs ignition working? If you do a search you will see a 4+ page thread on this with pictures.
Jacobs kit doesn't really work to well because it's the EZ kit, I picked it up at a swap meet for $20. It needs a second coil to trigger the box, so I just use the coil. It did put out some major energy though, you definitely wouldn't pull a plug wire while it's running.
I've searched, I did see the "show your engine bay" but that's in the L6 section. I certainly like to see other swaps to.
Unless your talking about a different thread.
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Just stay away from anything RETRO-SPEC/{PAULO) made, because he wont wrap it good enough so it doesnt get damaged and wont get it fixed/make it right when it does.
Thanks for the update, I was actually looking at a carbon fiber panel on ebay. Well typed in RETRO-SPEC in the search and get the panel I was looking at. Username is apparently fazzt73.
I have dealt with poor quality and damaged parts and this guy wont be getting my business.
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Love the sparco one. How would it mount up to this one. I have the factory hoses. Is there like a 3" extension on it to where a hose clamp would attatch?
I would probably reduce it with a piece of tube or find some sort of rubber ring I could slip over it to bring it up to 3".
Kinda like this coupler ring that comes with this Here Slide it over and it brings a 2 1/2" to 3". Assuming you can reach the filler neck
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Got a 77 with pretty bad rust damage in the tank filler area. Bought another panel to replace it from a member here but when it came in, it looks kinda of rough. Does anyone have some different ideas on where to go with it. I was thinking of patching the filler area with sheet metal and mounting a motorcycle filler cap either there or somewhere else on the car. Anyone else have some ideas or maybe pics of someone else doing the same thing?
I'm in the same spot, I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do. I already patched it shut so i need to think of something. I was actually considering something like this Sparco filler and door Here A little to expensive.
Or something like this remote filler
Both are a bit expensive, maybe something could be rigged up with one of the cheaper fuel doors.
I'm also considering just shaving it and adding a fuel cell and just popping the hatch when i need to fill.
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I remember talking about pipe length a long while back and the time it takes to fill was far less important than endtank design and inlet/outlet location. Obviously extra bends in the piping have a effect, also how sharply the turn the air takes.
http://www.dvdtfab.com/intercoolertestlab.pdf
This is a very interesting read, you can get a idea how placement and design effect how efficiently the core is used.
This is also helpful
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You can actually already do this:
As a bonus, it is a 6 speed, re-sells quite well, and was built to be a sports car (ie it isn't as tall as it is wide and/or long).
Basically that's just a performance version of a MR-S. I would take a 1st gen Mr2 and drop 2gr in it and call it a day. 280hp engine in a car that would be under 2200lbs with lotus designed suspension and far cheaper.
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I know i was wondering, What do I buy and what setup will actually work.
I ended up going with a Center to Center a 22"x12"x3" Treadstone core, end to end it's 29" went this route because for some reason it was only $140 shipped.
Ended up buying a cheap ebay pipe kit which was
2 x Straight Aluminum Pipe
2 x Aluminum Pipe 45 Deg
2 x Aluminum Pipe 75 Deg
2 x Aluminum Pipe 90 Deg
6 x Silicon Hose, Straight
2 x 90 Degree Elbow Hose
16 x Matching Stainless Steel Clamp
The tubing is about 17 1/2" long
And bought a 2" to 3" 90 Deg couple and had a foot of straight 3".
I haven't used either Straight tube yet and i still need to take care of some issues, like the long coupler and the Intercooler definitely needs to be adjusted. I haven't pounded the wheel well and may need to get a better angle to the 90 deg coupler on the passenger side.
This is what I've roughed in.
Show us your setup.
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I forgot to hook up quite a few of my grounds and the fuel pump would stay on instead of priming. Don't know if the injectors were open during this time. Found what i didn't hook up and it was back to normal.
Probably a good chance it's just a wiring problem.
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Anyone know of a place that sells an oil cooler kit or just the thermostatic sandwich adapter?
Check that out.
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I may just do that. If it gets rid of any noises that will be good. I really hope I didn't get it to hot so it blew a head gasket or anything. I really don't wanna screw with it, finally getting work done on the z because I had something to daily drive and wasn't wasting money on other stupid crap. Now this happens.
If it's actually broken it makes a rattling sound at the front of the valve cover. It basically snaps off and then surfs on your timing chain. You can tell by the way it sounds, anything mechanical would usually be in sync with engine speed. The sounds it makes is random, the guide is just 2 bolts and is bolted down right behind the chain.
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Went to Napa sure enough no 240z kit.
Bought the 280z kit and sure enough same seals, 2 in a pack. So $5 VS $17 for 2 older kits, only thing you don't get is a new dust cover.
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Hey i forgot to say that you should remove that top guide anyway if you open the valve cover. It's a known recall and will eventually break and Nissan says it's un-needed. That's if it's not already removed.
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What I've seen twice is a broken upper timing chain guide, but it didn't effect how the cars ran. It does however make the engine sound like something is seriously wrong.
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Now would probably be the best time to do it. All signs point to yes regardless.
Basically a 2.5" exducer and scaling up to 3" exhaust, would it be that beneficial to go any larger than 3"? Though 4" maybe a bigger pain than it's worth.
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Thanks for all the help deciding guys.
Just got a .63 T3 housing for P-trim, it's actually a boxed garret part. I opened the box and thought no way it's big enough to fit over that turbine. Had to measure it right away and it is big enough. It truly plays tricks on your eyes when you see that huge housing then look at the dinky T3 turbine housing. I have the wastegate adapter and basically everything ready to install, just need to put on the housing. Should have it on by next week, if all goes well.
Do you guys think i should go from 2.5" exhaust to 3" while I'm at it?
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I tried a hammer at first and then moved to a slide hammer. A large slide Hammer seems to be far easier, you can either hook to the fins or could drill a extra hole in the drum. Start hammering on one side and move to the other and keep alternating. Worked out well, where the normal hammer seemed like a lost cause.
Autozone loans out a crappy slide hammer i believe but i think it's only for pulling hubs and doesn't have any attachments.
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Well one of wheel cylinders failed and I was thinking about replacing them but we all know the when you find a replacement it is expensive and it would make more sense just to covert to disc. So I decided a rebuild would be a fine temporary fix. Looking at the Napa site, the older kit is $8.50 a piece basically a seal and a dust cover. I was thinking that is a little expensive considering all I need was the seal and that's if they have it in stock. Question is do later dual piston cylinders use the same seals? One kit is $5 bucks and comes with 2 seals.
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Unless something is leaking during boost and you can't hear it.
assuming that could happen at such a massive are volume and velocity as the output of a turbo, and assuming that it was somehow a one-way leak such that i could lose boost but still have compression braking... how would i go about testing for it?
Compression braking wouldn't be a sign of either a stuck wastegate or a weak spring/low boost pressure. The engine is the only thing under no throttle which effects your compression braking. Remember that your turbo is doing nothing during closed throttle.
The system is fairly small most of your testing could involve plugging possible leaks, like the sources junglist suggested.
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Ok this could be a really stupid idea. Please tell me if it is. I was trying to figure out where to put all this stuff (ie surge tank 2 pumps 2 filters and a bunch of hoses) and then I thought hmm. What If I put it all in the spare tire well and then bolt an aluminum plate over the top of it. I'd dynamat the plate and the well to keep noise down and if I need to get to any of the components I'd just unbolt the top plate. Please let me know if this is stupid. Also if this isnt stupid should I mount the low pressure pump by the tank so it doesn't have to pull as far.
Sounds like a plan, a lot of people would say it's unsafe to add anything involved with fuel to the cabin for obvious reasons. You are going to block it off though, so if you want to go that route then i would say go for it. I would think your after pump filter should be in the engine bay, because it's only job is to protect your injectors from particulates.
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My friend and I were tinkering with his RX-7 Turbo II and I proposed the idea of moving his signal line to the manifold. We did this and was surprised to see how much faster boost came on. We could actually hit full boost in 1st gear, as we were not able to do so before.
As for letting off the throttle....If you think about it, the sudden vaccuum on the WG will close the WG as to keep your exhaust gasses flowing through the turbine, thus keeping the turbo spinning just a little bit more between shifts.
I don't see a reason why it comes on faster under WOT. Do you have a theory why it would come on faster? A huge pressure difference between where it was connected before maybe, making the gate open later.
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How many people really hook their WG signal to the TB? Most of the time they either hook thier signal up to the turbo or the manifold. This being the most common case(being hooked to the turbo) when your BOV releases, your turbo is still spinning and creating pressure, as well as the intercooler system before the BOV will still be pressurized. This causes the WG to float open a little bit, allowing exhaust gasses to escape......you can figure the rest from there.
I understand that thinking, part of the reason i vent before the intercooler because it is a restriction. We know that most wastegates begin to crack at about 50% of the spring pressure, it would make sense that it may float at less. Only question is, should you or would you have enough pressure in the system to keep it floating. If you have enough pressure to keep that valve open and your turbo is seeing that back pressure then you have a greater performance issue. My BOV will open in neutral with a quick blip, it doesn't hold much pressure. I agree that no matter how well it vents it would show some positive pressure. Definitely it could be tested, by checking at what pressure a wastegate actually closes. Then checking the pressure in the system when the BOV opens.
Building a fuel system for my rb25det
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=158349
Sounds like it according to this thread. I can't 100% confirm it though.