doublez

I mostly agree with the above. What would happen if you just mixed the green and blue powder together?

I went to the junkyard and they have basically nothing for me. They have one 280zx, missing everything brakes related. A couple 300zx, all 5 lug. A couple maximas, but none of them are old enough. And no 240sx cars So I went ahead and ordered that wheel cylinder. Hopefully it is the right thing. If not I might return both and try a couple other yards in search of rear disc parts. (I would try other yards now, but this is the only pick n pull yard close to me)

One more update I just got in a part that is 'after 7/72' and it now matches what came off of my car. Is there infact a difference between the years? I think I will just order the other side cylinder from wagner (part # WC96878) and hope it works out.

I went to carquest and they want 85 a piece for the wheel cylinders. The best place online I can find is 80 a piece, but they you have to ship them too, so that's not really savings. I'm going to go check out the junkyard right now. Maybe I can find stuff for the maxima rear disc upgrade. I guess if I can get the calipers and rotors cheap I would just do that upgrade because any bracket I need I can make. I have access to a CNC mill and I know how to use it. If I were to go the disc route, would I have to use maxima calipers/rotors if I can make any size bracket I need? or is that just the easiest route to go? Please help me out here.

That looks like pro e to me. roye - would you mind sharing how that was made? I'm taking a engineering drafting class at my hs and I want to try more advanced things but we don't learn all that much in the class. Feel free to pm me if that is actually pro e.

Ok, running into some problems ordering these wheel cylinders. At first I ordered 2 from rockauto.com not knowing the build date of my car. I ended up getting two different brands and both were wrong. Both were after 7/72 parts. So, now I need to order before 6/72 parts and the only ones I could find so far aren't available (through rockauto). So where can I get these? I'm not finding them. I guess my other option would be to upgrade to discs but I don't want to do that unless I can do it cheap. I do have access to plenty of tooling so fabrication isn't an issue I guess. But what would I have to buy to make it work? Anyways I'm open to suggestions. (here's the wheel cylinder out of my car)

You should be reading in the RB subforum to find out more if you are going to be doing this swap, but I'll start you off with a link to pats thread. He lists prices a couple posts down, you just have to look for it... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89219-i-picked-up-a-new-sheetmetal-brake-and-other-toys-for-building-these-oil-pans/ RB Subforum

I have some center caps too, but I don't think they say anything on them. Here's what I found, about 20 from the bottom - http://www.mini-mayfair.net/13.html You can PM me about the louvers if you want.

Thanks for the info. I already took off the window louvers and I'll probably take off the hatch one too but I'm not sure right now. I have to set the timing to get it to run better but I'm not sure how to read the crank pulley. I assume the first (biggest) notch is tdc, then every mark after that is 5 deg? What should I set timing to? The fsm says 17 deg but I've read it's okay to go a little higher?

Thanks for the tip. I didn't have any atf around so I tried working with what I do have, brake cleaner, wd40, our parts cleaner (I don't know what the stuff is thats in there, it's green), (etc), but nothing really worked. I think I'll just order 2 new ones. I can always mess with the old one more and return the new one if I do get it to work. I'll get more pictures when I can, but right theres much to take pictures of

Well, getting hung up on the brakes right now. Both wheel cylinders are clogged up pretty good. I broke a bleeder screw in one and then broke the easy out in that, so I have to buy atleast one new cylinder (unless there something to do to get the easy out and the bleeder out?) The other one I got apart all the way, but the fluid passages are clogged up. At the moment I got it so that air will come through. Is there something I can use to eat away at the rest of the junk in there to really make sure it's clean? Or do I just have to buy a new one for that too? I'd prefer to do this as cheap as possible.

It's probably going to a shredder if its going to a metal recycling place. IL you say? My guess would be Chicago then, they have a few, but I'm not sure what 7hrs from you is. If you really wanted you could call a couple of the shredders around there.

What did you use for a powdercoating gun? I've been looking into it as a way to finish parts, but I'm not sure yet. Do you recommend powder or paint?

Update... I finished the rebuild on the brake master and clutch master. Both are installed and ready to go, just have to finish bleeding the brakes. I also heard it run for the first time yesterday! Now just to install the refurbished fuel tank and hook up a few miscellaneous hoses and what not. Should be ready to drive by the end of the week.

Door cards are very nice, seats are great too. Just need a little cleaning to shine nice. Dash is good except for a little crack, maybe I can fix it with something? I think I'm going to take off the louvers, but I'll deal with that kind of stuff later, I just want to get it running Didn't have time to do much this week, but I did start tearing into the brake and clutch cylinders. Brake cylinder I got mostly apart, but I can't get the second piston out. It moves but I don't know how to get it out. Clutch master I'm soaking in oil trying to get it to brake loose. I'll get some more pictures soon.

I personally don't have experience with this but my opinion is if you are calm and not ranting/yelling/etc it wouldn't hurt to call. But,... if you are going to yell don't waste your time. Hopefully you can make it work out for that shell. Maybe you have a day off school or something?

Really? If you go to the free section on craigslist you will probably find some washers/dryers. It seems most are steel sheet. I don't think I've ever seen an aluminum one. Moderns30 - I thought you were getting a new shell? Did that fall through? [edit] I agree don't call the po. They can't and won't do anything for you.

I'm not really sure what it is but I can get you a picture sometime this week. I'll just have to open the garage door

I race dirtbikes in flattrack racing (or dirttrack same thing). Here's a quick video for those that don't know... And a great movie to watch about dirtbikes is On Any Sunday by Bruce Brown. Looks like you can watch the whole thing here (with commercials) - http://www.imdb.com/video/hulu/vi2162491929/ It's a good movie for those who aren't even that into bikes. It's about 1.5hrs. Anyways we will run anywhere from 8 to 30 psi depending on the tires, track, time of day, etc. It matters a lot for traction/handling. Like others have said tires are round not flat so pressure affects the contact patch with every little change.

Well, I bought this car about 3 weeks ago and just got to start working on it this past week. I picked it up for $1000. It has had two owners and has been garaged most of its life. It's been in storage for past couple of years being worked on until it could be afforded anymore so that's when I came in. For the most part it is in great shape considering its age and that its a MN car. The interior is great (the clock even works!) and the exterior has very minimal amounts of rust. As of now it doesn't run, or drive, but everything just needs to be refreshed from sitting for awhile. Nothing is broken or needs replacing (at least not yet ) So right now I'm just working to get it running and driveable (brakes, clutch, etc) Before I bought it the brakes were redone except the master cylinder so I am cleaning that up. The clutch master cylinder also needs a little work. Nothing is wrong with the motor, but the carbs need to be cleaned and the wiring hooked up (the previous owner replaced the distributor and wires). I'll be working on this as I can, I need to find a job to start paying for parts and what not (not easy at 17 ). Once summer starts I'll be able to do more. So here's my pics as it sits right now... Also I have these wheels and I'm not sure what to do with them. I don't really like them and I have the original 'Z' hubcaps (rusty of course) for the steel wheels that I like better so I thought about selling them. If anyone is interested let me know or else I'll just keep them. I'm probably forgetting something but that's all I got for now.

Ugh, I should have checked the cord. One of the connections inside the male pin came apart so I guess i just have to solder it back together. Thanks guys.

So my guitar amp broke the other day and I don't know why. I'd like to fix it instead of buy a new one so here is my problem... I was playing on a low volume one day then turned it off. Came back later only to have no guitar sound coming out. Here is my run down of it so far... The amp turns on. A fuzzy noise comes out of the speaker (with overdrive on). I've tested my guitar and keyboard on the amp and neither make a sound (well, the keyboard made a really, really, really faint sound with the volume all the way up). The speaker looks fine, no rips or anything and I think the fuse is good. And that is all I know to look for so far. Right now I'm thinking the input is bad but I don't know how to test it? Any ideas? (I don't know much about amps but it is just a regular amp (not a tube amp))

PM sent

PM sent. I decided to put motor work off for a few months.

Well, I found that. I meant the duty cycle and what not. And hobart/miller is a hobart/miller. I meant I'll buy whatever I can find a better deal for on craigslist/online/instore/etc.