Griz

I couldn't find a really good way to get all the info into a post, so I made a site for the projects we have underway at the Griz household. Take a look and let me know what's right/what's wrong. I'll be adding video and additional info now that I have a place to tell the story.... http://griz240.googlepages.com/

Chrome rake tips like these on the side, maybe?

Thumper - I agree, 14-15 is best economy (who needs that!). The tabulated air/fuel is between 12.9 and 13.2 for the enitre RPM range with the tune shown, great for the WOT fun. 68birdls1 - You are so very right. The driveability was so much improved with the tune. It feels smoother and comes out of the corners oh so much better. As soon as I get finished with a couple of car shows this winter/spring, I'll go back to the dyno. We saved a tune on speed-density instead of MAF. I'll try that and see what kind of difference that change makes. Then cold air intake, mess with the timing and see where all this leads.

This tank is a regular auto parts store large tank. It works well and is mostly hidden froward of the radiator. Simple to plumb and it doesn't leak, even during autocross runs. Pardon the poor paint, this was taken during the create-a-front-clip part of the body work.

My Z has a pretty much stock 2002 LS1 in it. A friend of mine (Chris) here locally does tuning, but he didn't have a dyno of his own to use. Well, he bought one and opened his own business so I took the yellow Z over for a test and tune. The initial air/fuel ratio was horrible (between 10.6 and 11.3, optimum being closer to 14.6). Chris went over the tables and made a few changes with the increases shown in the chart. Peak torque was up but the real difference was the 300 ft-lb from 1800 RPM to 5800 RPM. Peak HP wasn't too much different, but the 15-25 HP increase from 2000 RPM to 5600 PRM is noticeable. The area under the curve is what matters. Torque is acceleration, Horsepower is speed. Now I need more of both.....

treefer85 - The G nose on the yellow car I've had since '78, The whole setup (fenders w/flares, hood, nose and rear flares) cost me a cool $125. I then spent a lot of time getting them to line up and be straight. (I was a fiscally challenged student back then, see the last paragraph for the rest of the story...) The second was an ebay find. Rare, but occasionally listed. nullbound, ppraska - Thanks for the compliment. I'm entered in the Starbird Rod& Custom show in Wichita in January, I sure hope to win something, even if it just a plaque. bartman - Lack of sunlight has been a problem until today. About 2 hours around noon were sunny and the paint, the curves and highlights look like poured gold, thick as honey and way yellow. I cannot seem to get a picture to capture reality, but I'll keep trying. Many folks don't necessarily like the G nose, but that is OK with me, this is just my opinion of what I want my Z to look like. After I got the LS1 installed, the shop that was getting the car prepped for paint really went above and beyond on the nose. We took the inner structure and beefed it up, added the air dam and built it into a front clip, 10 bolts and the whole thing just lifts off. Not an everyday occurance, but possible if necessary. It all hangs together well and is structurally sound.

A few more picts from the weekend. There seems to be a general lack of sunlight in the area, dang it.... This is the complete set of Zs from my garage - '70, '71, '72. The 2 blue Zs are my son's daly drivers. They were the reward for the rebuild help on my car and we will be autocrossing them this spring and summer. As soon as they get out of high school and college, they are ready to start the V8 conversion.

The color really jumps in the sunlight, the photos do it no justice. The change from yellow to red/salmon to green is amazing. The paint is PPG Vibrance Yella (yes, yella). I can ge the part number if anyone is interested. I'll get video this weekend as long as nobody catches me at it.....

Those wheels are Motegi Touge. The part number is: P/N 2178-8165 Size 18x10 Offset +30 mm Backside 6 5/8 in. Bolt pattern 5x4.5 Weight 29.0 lbs Tires are Yokohama AVS ES100 275/35ZR18 rear and 254/40ZR18 front

January 2005 to December 2006. The project is complete (except for all the never-to-complete extras to work on...); paint, body, LS1 and T56. The posts here are definitely worth the price of admission and searching out the answer usually leads to plenty of other ideas and solution to problems I didn't even realize I had. I appreciate all the help.

Out and about this afternoon....

Davy - Thanks for the kind words and the bigger pic. The flares are from back in the days (1977) when I picked up the Gnose, hood and other glass parts for $125. I thought it was a good deal, even then. I do not know the vintage or history of the flares, but most of the parts were from Bob Sharp racing Advertizement from Car & Driver, Article on "When Stock Won't Do", 1977). The original nose and fenders were seperate, but this time around, I had them bolted, glassed and bonded together. The entire front clip comes off with about 18 bolts. Not a simple removal, but still relatively easy to do. The front spoiler I managed to salvage from Motorsport Z and then fitted to the nose. NKC_280Z - I'll be in Olathe sometime over Christmas. If I take the car, I'll let you know....

I like the color, too, but I paid for it. I really want to get to Heartland sometime next year. We also have a group at work that is planning to rent Hallett for a track day, so I'm in with that, too. The car was at the local paint shop, so I don't own those cars in the background. Oh well. They do high end restoration and hot rod stuff, so I went there for my paint.

The yellow Z reincarnated from my initial purchase in 1978. I found the BSR spoiler and put it with the G nose I already had. I used PPG Vibrance Yella and it really jumps in the sunlight. As soon as I get it roadable, I'll post some outdoor picts. More photos in My Photos.