Griz

I took the Datsun clutch pedal clevis, drilled out the metric nut that fit the original master cylinder and welded the Wilwood nut to the end. That left me with the original Datsun end to pin to the clutch pedal and the correct threads for the new master cylinder.

These parts fit my LS1/T56 installation and work well. The slave is for reference or spare, the trans should come with one in it. Category Manufacturer Part Number Price Comments Master Cylinder - 13/16"Wilwood WIL-260-5920 $66.93Purchased from Summit GM Quick Connect clutch hose McLeod139212 $80.98Purchased from McLeod Fitting - AN4 to 3/8x24 McLeod139003 $32.99Purchased from McLeod Clutch Slave Cylinder Bendix13207 $73.91Delco P/N 18F183 / GM 18037524

Motegi Touge 18x10 front and rear with AVS ES100, 245F, 275R.

These are 18x10 Motegi wheels with flares similar to what you are proposing. I have just glassed them into the fenders.

The blue G nose didn't get to the reserve, so the owner offered a 2nd chance to those of us that bid on it. I picked it up over the Christmas break and drove it from Atlanta to Wichita with my son. (He got the car for getting his Eagle scout completed.) The car was very clean and didn't cost all that much ($5500 and change). There is no rust on most of the car, but the side skirts did cover the damage to the rockers. We will be fixing that during the summer project. This makes 2 g nose Z cars, one LS1 and one L28.

I'm sending mine to JCI this afternoon, I'll keep y'all posted on the resolution. The signal is (from the PCM) a 5 volt square wave, varying frequency. I'm going to verify that signal as well, but the tach ought to read that nd display correctly. The exhaust system is going in tomorrow (magnaflow, 2.5 dual all the way to the back) and then I tag it for the street.

All - Thanks for all the posts and info. I have learned so much and usually find the answers I need. My '71 just started and ran this weekend with its LS1. No updated paint, rear deck or hood, open headers, but it is wicked quick. I'm down to just a few more items (likely to expand with road tests and additional use, HA). For those of you running the Speartech harness (excellent workmanship!)i I have 2 questions: 1) Which wire did you use for the pink ignition wire to the PCM? I seem to need a wire with 12V at ON and IGNITION, but cannot find one. Frustration. 2) The white wire to the tach is there, 12V and ground are there, but no tach. The tach (and other kit parts) are from John's Cars and John indicated they were operational at delivery (and I have absolutely no reason to not believe him), but I get no twitch or movement of the tach. Anyone have a similar problem and solution? I've spent ~8 mo (weekends) on the project with the usual amount of "while I'm at it..." stuff. I'll post pics here shortly. Thanks.

Good call on treating the engine and ECU or PCM as a unit. They are pretty self-contained. Don't, however, forget all the other systems in the car. These interfaces will have to be "created" from one manufacturer to the other: Fuel - Z tank (or donor LS2 vehicle tank) to new lines (supply and return) to new filter to fuel rail attach. Clutch - Z pedal and link (and travel) to the master cylinder to the transmission. Brakes - engine vacuum to the Z master (pretty basic on this one). A/C - if you put it in, GM compressor to the Z evaporator. Cooling - Z radiator and hose location to GM water pump. Heating - GM water outlet/inlet to Z (easy again, just watch the hose diameter.) Electrical - GM alternator to Z wiring (no voltage regulator/coil/distributor stuff, just hookups, mostly). Steering - If you have PS, then GM pump to Z steering. Those interfaces get to be the time (and $) consuming details of getting the swap completed.

Try this link. This is a very good discussion on that topic: http://www.magshooterz.com/R200Info.htm Doug

MikeJTR and Randy 77zt have the story correct. The 302 I mounted in my 240 fit completely behind the front crossmember. The 2 engine mount towers were removed from the crossmember and the engine mounts for the Ford went directly to the frame rails on the side. An easy setup and a good load path. The crossmember had 3/4 inch removed from the back side in the center and I welded a 3/16 plate in that gap. It didn't look too pretty, but it was stout. With theengine loads going to the side rails, the strength was fine. The distributor was in the front, so no mods were required for the hood, either.

Runnin - I have recently removed my 302 Ford from my '70 240Z. I don't have anything against Fords, but the swap was done in 1977 and used a '75 Mustang II motor. I just wore it out, got tired of carburetors and wanted a project for the kids. I'm into the 4th month of an LS1/T56 install and it is pretty smooth. The issues I had with the Ford installation were really very few. The internet wasn't around back then, so I had to make up everything as I went along, but the space was available and easy to stuff the motor in. I know the 280ZX is different in the engine compartment, but the most difficult task was modifying the front crossmember to clear the pan. The engine (with toploader, close ratio and a Hurst shifter) fit well back in the compartment, had room on the sides and long pipe headers tucked well into the space (custom welded, natch). If I still had photos, I'd post them, but much has been lost over the years. Best of luck, if I can answer questions, let me know. Griz

DaleMX - You are correct, the 3/4 is the same as stock. The 13/16 was recommended to match the pedal throw and volume on the Hyd TO Bearing. The tube is created by McLeod (www.mcleodinc.com) and, according to the tech line person (714/630-3668), is created only by them to attach the Wilwood to the T56. Kind of pricey, (~$80) but also available at Summit and Street and Performance. LS1 Z - The number you listed is the same as I was using to search the web for. The parts available that match that number do not resemble the what I remember seeing online. I'll search out where I found it and check again, but the local auto parts cross reference component is NOT the way to go. Even the GM dealer, when given that number, comes up with a different part. It looks like there was a part number change without rolling the dash number or reidentifying the part. Hope this helps.

LS1Z - Do you have the GM number on your clutch master? I've been looking for the correct part to interface the master cylinder to a 2002 T56 (Hyd TO Bearing). I have found the component maichor is refering to (and the special bracket drawing and instructions to mount it) and I also have a GM part (15033924) but it doesn't have flanges or the hydraulic tube. It is basically a plastic throw-away master cylinder. What I have found so far is a Wilwood 13/16 aluminum master cylinder (3/4-24 thread output), the adaptor for 3/8-24 to AN4 flare and a hyd tube to go from AN4 to the special GM fitting on the trans (with the flow mod already performed), but this configuration is about $160 ($60 - master, $80 tube, $10 fitting and shipping). Thanks for any info, folks.

GM parts has the part number, not the price. They say available in Fall 2005. Maybe only a second mortgage required.

Try http://www.nissanparts.cc . I have been successful in finding just about every part I needed, all OEM. If you have an Illustrated Parts Catalog for your year vehicle, the Nissan part in the search field gets you the part you need. For instance, part 46243-E8800 gets you a front brake line. I don't have the part no for a fuel tank for a '74, but I have looked up the part for a '70. Hope that helps griz