Ironman

LOL, Thanks turbo. My friend is has a condition called "partial retardation", Just kidding, he just acting like an idiot. He does it a little too good though.

Tonik: LOL... Thanks UPDATE: I GOT IT STARTED!! Here is the video. Notes: I don't like rap music, my friend was playing it on his Iphone. I would lift up my pants, but I was too excited. I still have to diagnose why it takes so long to start(Any Ideas)

Use the 7/16 1/4 Drive to bleed the t56. You don't need a hose, all the fluid just drips on the socket and bell housing. Bleed like a regular brake bleed. (2 Man Job) I didn't have to even fill-up the reservoir. Or if your cool use a vacuum bleeder. The feeling of pushing the clutch and feeling feedback, is a great motivation booster. Good Luck

PCM Rev limiter function: Prevents excessive rpm by utilizing a fuel cut function at elevated RPM. (Stops injecting fuel at XXXX Rpm so the engine will physically stay a specifed RPM. The LS PCM's can be "flashed"(reprogrammed) to modify internal parameters. EG. Rev Limit. Flashing requires a computer and software "HPTUNERS" If your talking about the harnesses, then WAIT4MEProformance is a harness modifying company. You send them your stock fbody harness, and money. They give you a modified harness that is plug and play that requires very few external wires to hookup. If you have the money, it is much easier to send it to them.

The best way to find info is to search ls1tech. But of the top of my head Here are the sensors/outputs that are needed for running the ls1. SENSORS Crank Pos Cam Pos Knock 1 Knock 2 MAP MAF IAT Throttle Position Sensor O2 Bank 1 O2 Bank 2 Coolant Temp Sensor OUTPUT IAC Injector 1 -8 Coils 1-8 Since your running an LS2 (Don't qoute me on the info below,I am making assumptions) Accelerator Pos Sensor VSS Things you can delete (If it exists) Rear O2 Evap System Air system EGR system Fuel Tank sensors/system VATS system Skip Shift Reverse Lockout (Not recommended) MAF(Speed density only) Oil Pressure Sender (Go Aftermarket) OBD 2 port (Not recommended) This might give you a boost. Are scratch building a harness, or reworking an old one?

I paided $2500 for: LS1/T56 Harness, Computer, and clutch master. All accessories too. Got mine on Craigslist. I was searching for about 6 months day and night.

The video is badass. I love the song, I feel that it captures the feeling when I drive my personal Z. Here are my comments and suggestions. (From an audience point of view) 1. There is a little too much pan overs of the car, gets a little boring. 2. I like the way you sync the song beats with the actions in the videos (eg. turning on the headlights) 3. The quality, style of the video is very good. 4. You need more "action" shots (overtaking, flybys, etc) Can't wait for Vol. 2

Another Update: I dropped in the LS1 today. Here are some comments. Some people say to leave the headers on when you drop in the motor, I found it almost impossible to drop. Don't Buy a cheap hoist. (Purchase the largest rating,size you can afford) Heat Tape your brake and fuel lines. The reverse lockout solenoid can be eliminated by cutting the solenoid, a sealing her up with good ole RTV. The JCI mounts are worth their weight in gold. Go Ahead and purchase some polyurethane LS engine mounts. (Saves a lot of time later) I didn't feel like denting the tranny tunnel. So I used a Mustang t56 reverse light switch Cut the SkipShift Solenoid Removed the Reverse-Lockout Use a rubber expandable freeze plug (Stupid, I know, I might make a dent for this one) Above: There are **** tons of space in the front of the motor. Enough for a small swimming pool, OR some turbos

Another update: I did all of the LS1 related work this week. Used a russell fitting to adapt the trans Wix Oil Filter Repainted Engine Installed Oil Pressure Adaptor If anybody is wondering why I didn't paint the alternator,starter, and idler pulley. The reason is because I didn't want to "screw it up" with the paint. Once I verify that the engine works. I will pull it and paint it. It will also give me something to do in Auto Tech at school. Here are pictures: Above: Almost looks like a crate motor Shipping it off to school, so I can torque the headers, 02 sensors, and Water pump. I need to buy a torque wrench!

Your Z is very clean and to the point, I like that. Is the color the same one from the new mustangs? Also how much meat are you running for your rear tires?

What it said on the website- $330 Non coated- Painted black from JCI

They were never there, I am just going to put exhaust clamps on them.

As Promised

Thanks KFD, little comments like yours are a HUGE motivation booster. Time for an update- Painted Sub-frame mounts and steering rack Installed Datsun side JCI Mounts (VERY SOLID) Reinstalled Front Suspension Ran 1 gauge relocated battery wire from rear Installed Braided sleeve over old harness. At the rate I am going to hopefully be done within 2-3 weeks. Left to do- Paint LS1 Deal with the wiring. Reinstall R/T mount Wire in the fans on LS1 Harness Mount Battery Tray. R and R fuel system and associated wiring Drop in LS1 Add fluids Mate the wiring Mount PCM Install heat shielding related items Install Trans Crossmember Install Driveshaft Install radiator and intake Ghetto rig exhaust enough to go to school and properly install it. Do any final touches(rerouting,bending,etc) Put back the body DRIVE IT Comments, Suggestion, and Questions are more than welcome Here are pictures: Above:MMMmm. More Parts

The package came in about 1.5 days ago. I will upload pictures once I update my thread. Which will be tomorrow.

Small Update: Painted and installed the brake system/ clutch If anyone is wondering the silver paint is VHT Silver Engine Enamel. The Clutch MC was easy- Tilton 7/8 74 Series Kit Note- 5/16 -24 is the threads for the the Tilton rod (Pretty Sure on Thread Size,but don't quote me) You have to re-tap the Datsun "Pedal Connector" for everything to work. Also the hole is exactly the right size- The rubber boot is rubbing on the holes. Now I removed the engine subframe to sandblast and paint. While the Subframe is out, I'll paint it black I will also clean and sandblast the steering rack.(Silver) Maybe the LCA's too. (Color matched Orange) Heres a pic so far:

Actually the headers are on the way, I emailed John and he told me. When I receive the package I will take some pictures and post in here. I wasn't looking for a quiet exhaust, but a quieter exhaust The resonance isn't going to bother me too much. When I hit stage 2 of my build then I will redo the exhausts with duals all the way out the back. Fuel Tank Interference right now is stopping me from duals all the way.

If anybody is curious it is 2.5 Inches

Hey Guys, I am going to order my exhaust stuff today. I am wondering what is the collector flange size (Right Terminology?) for the header. (2.5 or 3 inches) My Headers are in the mail right now. collector flange size- the part of the header that bolts to the rest of the exhaust system. While I am already here, Which would be a better setup? Headers, xpipe, Borla Xr1's, dumped with a turn down before the diff Or Headers, Borla Dual in Dual out Turbo XL, with turndowns dumped before the diff? I am aiming for a quieter idle. Thanks

Another Update: Painted Engine Bay Installed Trans Fitting Dealt with Accessory Drive Setup (Just Needs a belt) First of the painting: I am very proud of myself considering the results and the circumstances that I was in. The paint PPG OMNI Line AU Single Stage 1976 Datsun 110 Red Paint Gun: HF HVLP 1.5mm tip Compressor: 3 Gallon IR Extras: HF Water/Oil Separator Personal Experience: Zero There are obvious flaws in the paint job mostly runs, and some lack of prep. Sandblasting, epoxy primer and lots of sanding could have taken care of it. But it is not a show car, and is more than adequate for my application. I just grinded, picklexed, and primered the rust spot in the battery tray. I didn't cut out and weld in a new piece of metal since I don't have access to a welder yet. (When School starts) I also am going to respray the brake lines/master cylinder;why go through the PITA of repainting an engine bay to have dirty brake lines? Have to do lots of wetsanding for the airdam. Time for the pictures- Above: My friend after getting high from the paint and buzzed from 3 Coronas. Not a bad job, not bad at all.

Thank you Modern, I always thought I just sucked at shifting every time I got a clunk. I never really did much research on it due to the fact that EVERYONE universally agrees to the benefits of the mount. I thought that the rt mount stops "strap stretching", which in turn causes a clunk. But now after further researching, Your supposed to use the GM trans mount to bolt through the diff to prevent upward AND downward travel. Man I feel like an idiot. Can't wait to get the car on the road. Thanks again Modern. Heres the link that taught me everything

Time for a status update: Since I want to bench test the LS1 before dropping it in/spending time/money. All I really can do is the Datsun side of the work. So I decided to: 1. Clean up the Engine Bay 2. Relocate the battery. 3. Paint the Wheel wells and cowl areas with Zero Rust. 4. Tap wires in preparation of the LS1. 5. Bend Fuel Lines/ Brake Lines So far Steps 1 and 3 are done. When I did the Zero Rust Application, I didn't make it perfect. It was never intended to be a show car, just a very fun car to drive/cruise around with. Although I will make a touch up coat to prevent any future rust formations. Here are the pictures. Above: Got Camber?

Theres no turning back now. I pulled out the L28. Took about 10 Hours , Learned lots of things though. Most of the time was figuring out how the hell to take off the fenders properly. Before I took out the engine, my sister came back from college. Seems like the perfect time for a Datsun 280z vs 2010 Camaro drag race! It was more to establish a baseline of speed for a before and after the swap comparison. Here are some pictures of the removal: Above: Cutting Off Exhaust, it was welded together Above: Me thinking Above: My sister and I Above: Lots of work left Above: MMMmmm.....Parts... More to Come Above:My Friend doing his happy face Here is a video that my friend took after pulling the engine: WARNING- STRONG LANGUAGE IN VIDEO

That is good that your making progress. Just remember try not to half ass your build to make it to the competition. If it takes 2 months longer to do it right, take 2 extra months. Keep up your grades, engine swaps can be a little distracting; I speak from personal experience. (Reading LS1 Pinout diagrams in Physics class ) Good luck, remember to take lots of pictures-videos, and update regularly.

Small Update: Haven't made major progress, life has been getting in the way. All I really did was the harness work. 1.Cut it down. 2.Convert to 99 PCM. 3.Make it Pretty Still on number 2. Should be done with harness work in a week or 2. Here are some pictures: Above: All the external wires needed to run the Engine Pink is IGN, orange is constant battery, tan is OBD-2(Discarded in the 99 swap) BLue and Green is fan relay control Purple is starter wire black- forgot (Probably Ground) Here are some pictures that I forgot to post before: The oil pump gasket install My Ghetto Rigged Brake Job fix, I fixed it properly later. I am going to order the fuel system related things, so I can bench test the engine in a few weeks.