Ironman

If its not hooked up then it should be very hard to shift through. When It has power connected through it should be easy. (I am not 100 percent sure). But look into that system.

Is your reverse lockout solenoid hookedup?

Thanks for the comments guys. I am still debating on keeping the swap, or just plain old cashing out. Since If I do keep the swap, I might do a beater s13 drift car. Under 2 k for everything. I am still trying to get back the trust with my father about the whole incident.

Man...I wish I never had to make this kind of update. Really did...... About a week ago, the day before I left for college, My friend came over to hangout. While we were talking I realized that I never took him for a spin in my car with the LS1. So I started to do my normal routine. Drive for about 2 miles, let her warm up. Once I was at my specific spot to haulass...I gunned it while rolling at like 5 mph. Like usual I lost traction and the backend was wagging around. I'm used to it. I can control that. While WOT, I shifted to second. Like normal. It's all apart of my routine. Like normal. But for some reason...I still cannot figure out to this day (Most likely inexperience)..The car started to get out of control. So I let off the gas a little cut the wheel to the opposite direction. But I over corrected. So I cut it the other way. Over corrected again. Within 2 secs I went from a joy ride to fully losing control of the car. The car veered left. Jumped a curb. The backside hit a tree. After hitting the tree the car continued to veer left. The car flew over the median/hill went to the opposiate side of the road. At this point I just tried my best to drive her into the grass. The everything was a standstill. At this point...I realized I fucked up badddd. I immediately tried to start the car...No crank. I looked at my friends he was breathing hard..and was groaning. My heart dropped. Then he started talking.. At the point I felt slightly relieved that he was conscious. I opened my door to access the damages. All 4 wheels are cracked/bent/broken. The tail light area is destroyed. THe backside is FUBAR. The motor is still good. But The unibody is bent to the point the passanger side door won't open. I just totaled my baby...EVERYTHING that I worked for the past 2 years was down the drain. WASTED. The police arrived I got a ticket for careless driving. My friend is ok, he just got bumped in the head. Went to the hospital to get checked out though. (Thankfully he is at 100% now) In all honesty there were so many what ifs in the crash: What if there was a car in the opposite side of the road . The other driver would have been dead. What if I never installed my battery box the day before. My friend or I would have been killed since it would have been flying around in the interior. What if I never double checked my friends seatbelt before we left. My seatbelts like to come apart..unless the are PUSHED in. His were loose before I checked them...He would have been ejected....DEAD or worse brain dead. I learned SO many things in that 5 second crash. It is almost unbelievable. First of: Never pour 100% of everything you have into a single object...eg car...Cause it can be gone in an instant. I lost AT LEAST 5k in the crash. Never push the limit on the street. -I realized that every time I was driving the car I was getting more and more cocky. -I told my self I knew my limit...I knew the limit...and I wouldn't cross it. But I unknowingly did. Get good insurance coverage. -I got state mins. so I never had colllsion. I told me self My spotless driving record is probably gone. -Now I cannot get a part time job as a valet..chofffer SP? I don't think I will qualify for any type of specialty classic insurance anymore.... When you build a car.. do it the right way. I put an LS1 in a car that has shitty breaks. Shocks were probably worn out. I had a different brand of tire on each corner of the car. Start with tires suspension harness race seats cage etc.....Then Put a badass motor in it. Whenever I was at car-shows...the older folks always told me...keep it on track. It's not worth it. -I agreed with them....Its good to go to the track, since you can get track times and have full access to a response team. but I never realized the definition of " not worth it". Not Worth It- the best definition I can give; while your dicking around on the street..pushing the limit...doing WOT pulls in a car that has traction problems... Doing WOT Pulls on shitty tires,brakes, suspension.etc. Then crashing somewhere killing an entire family...for what...an adererlanine rush?...is not worth it. Killing your best friend in the passenger seat...while some how getting the courage to look at this father dead in the eye...telling him "It's my fault that your son is dead" due to my stupidity...not worth it. Now I have to part out my car, (labor) Have to get a lawyer to fight my careless driving ticket (legal) ) Have to pay for my buddies medical bills (Fianical) Insurance rates skyrocket (Fiancial) My father doesn't trust me with high performance anything anymore (Trust) My family cut me off from doing anything car related (Loss of Privileges) Now I need a new hobby. In a way being cut off from automotive things is sort of good. Since now I am forced to diversify my lifestyle. Also the car won't be a distraction while I am in college. The sad thing is that kids my age would read this post, and brush it off,thinking that it would never happen to them. But its one of those things that you have to personally experience...rather than have someone tell you. since it will never get drilled into your head. The sad thing is, I held the exact same mentality. I am not saying don't drive fast or don't build a car. Do it... It's a hell of an experiance. But please..please...please..Create unbreakable rules eg. Won't go over a 100mph in a regualr street unless your by yourself..and no other cars on the road. No WOT hard shifting on the street. Doughnuts are still ok... I told myself I knew my limits..But I never had defined them. Go to the track eg skid pad..and just mess around get a feel for the car while it is out of control...I sure as hell wish I did. Time for the pictures I am going to sell my swap as a complete kit...I'm still thinking on the pricing..But offers are welcome. VIA PM I am going to part out the car... so if anyone needs anything then just ask VIA PM Comments are MORE than welcomed..considering I probably I am done with this "build"

It's been a while since my last update, While I was driving my ign relay (Datsun One) took a **** on me 3 times on 1 day. I decided to rewire the car instead of replacing the relay. (I know, I was a little over my head on this one.) So I pulled the dash, all the guages etc. (It's like driving a race car ) I did the barebones wiring needed. Headlights/Parkinglights Horn Turnsignals IGN Switch Brakelights I did put in the billet pieces that 1tuffz sells, VERY nice. I don't have any gauges (FUEL) It's like playing Russian roulette on the highway While the dash is out, I am going to mount the pcm on the inside of the car. Do a general wire tuck. and apply Zero Rust to the rest of the interior. Once that is done, I am going to put the interior back in, finish mounting the battery box, and put in the stereo (Listen to exhaust, gets old REALLY quick). I plan on leaving the car like that for a while , since I am going to college in less then a month. Once I have the cash: speedhut revolution gauges then a mgw short throw. After: 4x4 brakes, coil-overs and shocks (Maybe sectioned) Rota RBR maybe ZG's BUT Boost is in the back of my mind , reason being is that the car feels slow now, Ive gotten used to it and my friends have faster cars. I still have to get my car weighed on 4 corners and see how much wiggle room I have for a turbo. EDIT: I just realized I had my car for almost an entire year! At least I reached my goals for doing the LS1 swap by the end of senior year. I doubt I will do this much progress on Kiana over the next year. I need to diversify my lifestyle and hobbies The brakes and suspension will happen while I am in college, but the transition to boost happen probably when I graduate, unless I can pull some SERIOUS cash on the side.

Ya turbo, I would agree with Jakeoster, especially if you already have access to another car. Sure it takes 2-3k to finish the swap. But bite the bullet, look into getting a job, or a 2nd one . You already have the big items 2jz, ECU and FULL access to your fathers shop. So what if takes a little more time:) Like Nike said "Just do it"

Sorry I misphrased my self. The hp seems a little high. The torque sounds about right. Here is my reasoning: 98 Ls1 315 Flywheel HP Mismatch 2002 Tune Shorty Headers Better Intake 98 Intake Manifold. Based on other peoples numbers I thought I would get around 300rwhp/280-290trq. Any Ideas?

Got my car dynoed at Monster Motorsports. The rpm reading is a little off , since I had no tach when the it was on the dyno. Numbers were a little high. Max HP: 363RWHP 286RWTQ Here is a graph and a video,

Sorry for the long delay. School, and me partially getting a job at the local ls1 motorsports place kinda got in the way. So its a good kind of delay I cannot edit my first post. So here is the link. MODS: If you are reading this can you paste the new link back into the first post.

For some reason Youtube thinks I am uploading a duplicate video. I will wait 48 hrs then reupload it, so the youtube server can update.

The lower radiator hose I used the one that came in the JCI Vital Liquids Set. I had to modify it a little but it works. I don't think it has part numbers on it. I will check for it tommarrow and see if there is anything on the hose itself. I am still working on the video give me a little time

That is odd, I am getting the same thing, my source videos don't have it. I will upload it again check back in a few hours.

Whoops Goodeye Just double checked my Summit Invoice the I messed up the number. The number is RUS-658190. EDIT: Fixed everything

Any questions comments suggestions are more than welcome.

The I made technical overview videos, it is much more convenient and faster than a report. If you want more info about my swap just check out my build thread. The video is close to 45 mins. Grab a sandwich and drink. Then watch. I made a couple of mistakes in the video: The input and outputs for the regulator is wrong. I used adapter fittings from home depot to hook up my brake booster. I didn't have to dent the tranny since. Mustang T56 Reverse Switch Deleted skip shift. Removed reverse lockout, then installed it back in once tranny was in place. I also did a price out with part numbers and prices. Heres a jpg. I will attach a pdf. Priceout Videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aH9YLuF9kkU EDIT: FIXED CLUTCH PART NUMBER Total Cost2.pdf

Go to previous page, last post to see the entire post.

Koss: The suspension is basically the same. The ride is the same. I think it handles a little better, but I just think it is in my head. The I made technical overview videos, it is much more convenient and faster than a report. I am going to repost this post in the V8 section, in hope that people that need it, will actually see it. The video is close to 45 mins. Grab a sandwich and drink. Then watch. I made a couple of mistakes in the video: The input and outputs for the regulator is wrong. I used adapter fittings from home depot to hook up my brake booster. I didn't have to dent the tranny since. Mustang T56 Reverse Switch Deleted skip shift. Removed reverse lockout, then installed it back in once tranny was in place. I also did a price out with part numbers and prices. Heres a jpg. I will attach a pdf. Priceout Videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aH9YLuF9kkU Total Cost.pdf

I love these dramatic/artsy portrayals of our Z's. Keep up the good work.

Not really an update but somewhat related. Went to the annual local Z meet. Here are the pictures. I still have to give my final report, including videos prices outs pros cons, what I would re do. etc. Just haven't really found the time. Before anyone points any fingers, the pictures were from local Z owners. I did not take any of these pictures. I did put it in to be judged, Lets just say its not a show car

Small Update: Put the body back together and put in the exhaust Yes I know the airdam isn't a perfect match. I will probably polish the entire car to match it to the airdam. I just need some more time. Video is below for the exhaust I used a Borla 400286 Dual in/Dual Out internal X pipe. Sounds really nice at high rpms. But when the engine is loaded, and at lower rpm, it resonates ALOT. Any questions just ask Video is coming soon it is still uploading, I will comeback and edit this post.

Mmmmm. She is pretty. I have two questions. Do you plan on running an aftermarket airdam? (Xenon) In the first picture, is the clear tubing the same stuff you get at home depot for water projects, Or is designed for automotive use? Just wondering. I also like the stance your car has, very agressive.

Man its been over a month! School has been getting in the way this time. Here are the updates: -Fixed the long starting issue- MAP sensor signal wire was in the wrong pin for the PCM, Still takes about 2-3 seconds to start up though. I am going to replace the CMP Sensor for the hell of it. -My Dad and I made a bracket for the PCM. Looks a little ghetto but it has sentimental value to me -Rigged and De Ghetto rigged the fuel system, Everything is now tucked in much more cleanly. Don't have pics yet -I am having interference between the rack and the oil pan, still have to fix that. -Overkilled the Alternator cable, 1/0! -Got the exhaust fabbed for $100, crush bent though. -When I went to the exhaust guy and the car was on the lift, I noticed alot of my suspension related bolts were VERY loose! Remember to torque everything down! -Redid the fan, I discarded the Tarus fan, and ran a fan that my autotech teacher gave me, fits MUCH better. Its a single speed (Doesn't bother me) -The clearance between the steering rod and the headers is VERY close. Look at the pictures. Left to do: -Put in Exhaust -De Ghetto rig battery mounting. -Put back body -Clearance Oilpan and Steering Rack -Torque everything down -Alignment Time for the pictures: Above and Below: Fuel System while it is rigged Above and Below: Modification to the Pedal for increased throttle sensitivity Above: Rigged Battery Mounting Below: Rigged Fuel Setup Above- Exhaust with Borla 400286, 2.5" tubing, crush bent, dumped before the diff Below- Since I don't have any money, I had to "fabricate" my own shifter. (Doing a 2-3 Shift is starting to give me callus on my hand :lol: ) Above: Wiring for the Fan, For simplicities sake just go single speed. Below: The merging of the Datsun and LS1 Wiring, A bit of a birds nest if you ask me. I still have to do something about it. Above: The mount my dad and I made. I like the design, but the craftsmanship can be improved though. Below: This picture shows the clearances between the headers and the Steering Rod, Scares me a little. Considering how hot it gets. Above: The new fan, Much Cleaner and OEM looking. I have nothing bad to say about it.

When I had my PCM reprogrammed I left the 2 speed fan option on. I was originally using a Taurus 2 Speed Fan. Midway in the build, I changed to a single speed fan, Much simpler to wire. If you have the factory settings for fans wiring both the green and blue will activate your single speed fan for both LOW, and HIGH speeds. If you have the factory settings and connect only one color then, the fan will kick on during only the low OR the high speed temps. If you can modify Via HPtuners the fan parameters (Larger Temp range) and switch to a single speed fan parameter, Do that it is a little cleaner wiring wise. Since you are using one wire to control the fan turn on temp, I am assuming that you are running a single speed fan for everything.

You can run a ground switch parallel, to both the PCM fan grounds. I more or less did the same thing, and everything works good so far. Granted my car doesn't fire up anymore, but that is because of other non related issues. I what I did was run a single speed fan, put in parallel the both PCM fan ground switches (Blue and Green), and then momentarily manually grounded the relay via a jumper wire. (To check if the fan works) The fan starts up and shuts off automatically when needed, no complaints. EDIT: For your application take the Summit themostat ground wire, PCM Fan Blue, PCM Fan Green, Your switch hooked up to ground. And solder everything together. Everything should work as expected.

Hey BL, Thanks for the comment. The exact wheels that I have are Akuma 18 inch wheels wrapped on 225's. The problem is that the previous owner ran 1+ inch wheels spacers to fit everything. Plus it's a "universal" rim, with multiple lug spacings. (I think multi wheel spacing wheels are tacky) It does give the car a more aggressive look though, can't complain. My next update will probably be a go kart ride video. Later I will give a final report including: Part numbers Costs Things I would go back and change Pictures Videos Basically everything you need to know for an LS Swap.