Ironman

Put me down for a set as long as it is within the price point and it is released by mid January.

Hey guys thanks for the replies. I am probably going to access the extent of the frame rail damage, But most likely I am going to go with BD Frame Rails. I didn't paint the suspension components since I did all the work at school, and was pressed for time. Now that I have the experience, I might do all the disassembly, and painting at my house. When I was under the car, all the wheels were bolted/torqued on, I staged the picture for Facebook I would never trust my POS $20 big red jack, on anything. Thank you for pointing it out though. Couple things to update on, Finally changed out the oil pump gasket (leaking oil). In the process I screwed up the distributor timing. After my teacher showed me how to fix everything, I was initially pushing 32 degrees idle, and 42-45 thottle! We cranked it down a little bit, still have to do more fine tuning. My one of my rear tires had its "cords" rip. Looked like a knife when through it. (Gotta stop doing those doughnuts ) On top of that, my brakes partially failed just before taking a turn about 45 mph (Thank god for Dual Reservoir MC's!) Looked at my brakes, turned out one of my rubber lines had ripped/fatigued. Most likely from me man handling it during the bushing install. Lots of lessons learned.

Wow almost 2 months since the last update. This one is pretty big. 1. Installed Suspension Bushings 2. Aquired LS1/T56 First the bushings I used the master hyperflex Energy Suspension Kit. About 175 dollars if I recall correctly Have few remarks/advice about the product/job. 1. The kit does NOT include the front sway bar frame bushings 2. The steering coupler has fitment issues (Holes are wrong diameter) 3. Removing the old Front Control Arm bushing is a *****! I tried to press it out, didn't work. I burned the old rubber out Used a hacksaw to cut the metal "shell" Used a combination of a air hammer and a punch/hammer to remove the shells. 4. Doing the Spindle Pins were a nightmare. I just left it in there till I get/make the pin puller. 5. Before you do the job purchase these also New Tie Rod Ends (Mine were shot) New Balljoints (Also shot) New Spindle Pins w/locks 6. When I put the new jounce stoppers in the Struts, the old ones were non existent (Odd) 7. Penetrating oil/ spray is your best friend here. 8. The only things I have to do are: (After the V8 swap), yes my prioritizes are out of order New Tie rods New Balljoints Remove Spindle PIn and install outer CA bushings Install Trans mount bushings Dissassembly Rear Shocks and Install new Jounces. 9. The sway bar endlink bolts are too short for comfort/ physics For the front, I cut the spacer to create the necessary clearance. (Destroyed the original bolts) For the rear, I reused the original bolts/washers, but used the new bushings. (Metal is metal right?) Now for the pictures Above: 2 of my friends helping me out Above: Under the Car shot (If you see any irregularities, PLEASE let me now thanks) Any recommendations about the frame rail rust? Time for the LS1 Got the engine/transmission/harness out of a 98 fire bird. There are a LOT of Wires, have to take a picture. I estimate I should be done by DEC 2010 - Feb 2011. Right know I have to deal with the harness/computer related issues. To make sure it fires up. My plans: Going to convert it to 99+ pcm/harness Corvette Fuel Filter/ Reg with Walbro Cable LT headers if they come out in time JCI mounts JTR radiator kit JTR intake kit Dual 3 inch exhaust dumped before diff, with X pipe muffler Hopfully everything is straightfoward. Heres a picture of it: Above: I just thought this picture was bad ass, yes I did stage it.F (No tools and garage is closed. (Its my friends 370z)(EDIT: I don't have an erection in the picture, my zippers were down, giving an "illusion"), and yes we had drag race, stock vs stock, it looked like I wasn't even moving . Can't wait for the LS1, to show him whats up Above: The Camaro is my sister, the conditions weren't great for pictures, but whatever

Hey, I do I have interest in the LT's. As long as it clears the JCI mounting configuration. The biggest thing for me is time frame. If you have this within 3-7 months then I will be seriously interested. The time frame is my estimated time for the beginning of the LS1 swap. (Only thing that is really stopping me is sourcing a LS1 at the right price) Once I start, I will purchase Sanderson headers if not available. After purchasing the Sanderson headers, it will be almost impossible for me to justify the LT's. Time is money Good Luck with everything

This setup makes the use of truck engines much more affordable. I calculated the cost to make a LQ9 compatible with the S30. Oil pan-150 Intake/Injectors-200 Accessory drive swap -200ish Basically $550 to make it an LS1 LQ9-900 LS1-2000 Your mod cuts it the difference to about $800. It makes it more justifiable to use the vortec engines now. Thanks! Still going LS1 though , want to make it light as possible.

I am not on the body part of my build, but when I am the door skins will be the most important for me

That's a VERY cool idea. I might just have to borrow that. If you want put a high power led from Fenix/Nitecore; then that will really light things up.

Hey everyone, Summer REALLY flew by. I was told on Saturday evening that my car has to be ready and drivable in order to register it for school parking. First half of Sunday I over slept. Second half I finished grinding, painting, and putting back the interior. I was pretty mad since I rushed, and there are drips and heavy spots all over the floorboard. I stood in line at midnight for the registration that opens at 8pm. It was a cool experience though, reminded me of being in Fast and the Furious , with all the cars and eventually cops (They were cool though). I intentionally skipped the upper part of the center console, and floorboard/firewall since when I pull the dash out I can fully grind it down. Instead of half assing it now. The spare tire well isn't completely painted since when I install the ls1 tank or fuel cell (To run dual exhausts), I will be much easier to drill out the spot welds. When School starts, and I have access to the lift, then I will start ZRing and Piclexing the underbody. Here are the pics: P.S I still suck at driving a stick (Practice makes perfect,right?)

Small update again: Started to rip the interior in preparation of applying ZR and Picklex. Some pics All this disassembly is making my garage very messy. Tommorrow I am going to clean and organize everything. If I have time, I will start to get rid of the old insulation. Time to go to work

Another small update: Picklex 20 and Zero Rust Time ( The two products were about $230 to my door) Here is the prep area Before After Some Grinding Complete Grinding after Picklex application (Those paint stripper wheels are AMAZING) After Zero Rust Application Be sure to ALWAYS wear some sort of breathing apparatus when using Zero Rust, even with the respirator I got a little woozy. Even better would be to have a small fan to blow away the fumes. I was going to do more today, but the Florida rain has stopped me.

Thanks for the replies. I will add info about powder coating the uni body and galvanzing. Keep the suggestions coming

Small Update: Installed the R/T Mount I haven't been getting much done to my Z since Summer Vacation just started, and I am now almost working 40hr weeks, mowing lawns, fixing things around the house, and renovating my aunt's house My Z time is almost zero. I did however clean up my garage in preparation of applying the anti rust coating. Here are pictures of the R/T mount and the installed product ( Hard to get a good picture without a lift)

Best Rust Prevention Techniques After several hours of researching the best ways to protect my Z from rust, I have come up with several conclusions. The outline of this topic will go from the specific products, the specific area of the car, to and my potential choice. • Powder coating Pros: Looks Clean Very Durable Cons: Expensive Non-DIY Friendly Requires car to be stripped down. • Epoxy/ Self etching Primer Pros: Relatively Cheap Somewhat DIY-Friendly Can be applied in sections. Cons: Requires Compressor, HVLP and good ventilation. • Rust “Encapsulation†Products (Por15 /Rust Bullet/ Zero Rust) Pros: Easy to apply Applies right over light rust Very Durable Cons: Covers over rust Can “trap†in moisture and cause more rust. Cost (Depends on the product) • Phosphoric acid derivatives (Ospho /Picklex / Right Stuff) Pros: Actually “Converts†Rust Can be used in conjunction with primer Very thin Consistency (Spray able) Cons: Might cause bad reactions with other products • Rubberized Undercoating / Bed liner Spray Pros: Spray Can or Brush application Somewhat Cheap Cons: Doesn’t prevent rust, only prevent resistance against chips and abrasion • Anodizing (Not Applicable for steel bodies) Pros: Looks Nice Cons: S30’s aren’t made out of aluminum (I wish) • Hot dip Galvanizing Pros: OEM styled approach Gets every single nook and cranny Cons: Expensive Requires car to stripped down First Area: The underbody and Frame Rails My choice for my budget: 1. Mechanically strip to bare metal, 1. Use Ospho, and spray it with a wand for the interior frame rails. 2. Brush several coats of Zero Rust on the underbody Second Area: Inside doglegs and nooks and crannies 1. Use Ospho, and spray it with a wand Third Area: Interior Area 1. Mechanically and Chemically Strip to bare metal. 2. Zero Rust Fourth Area: Removable Body Panels (Hood, Doors, Fenders) 1. Strip to bare metal 2. Epoxy Primer 3. Eventually Topcoat Fifth Area: Suspension Components 1. Strip to bare metal 2. At Home Powder coating Sixth Area: Engine Bay 1. Strip to bare metal 2. Epoxy Coat 3. Single Stage Urethane Topcoat ( black or silver) No Expense spared rust prevention: 1. Acid Dip unibody to remove paint 2. Repair any through hole rust 3. Hot Dip Gavalanizing (May require re drilling of holes and body work to bring back to spec) 4. Powdercoat Unibody (Not Recommended for entire uni body) (Requires heavy masking) All of this is based on my research NOT actual experience. Please tell me of any inconsistencies in my research so I can correct them One question: Has anyone used the PIcklex 20 and Zero Rust Combination personally? I ask since the combination is heavily pushed at a certain website, but I never really heard of it elsewhere. Any Suggestions are more than welcomed EDIT:Powdercoating

I haven't personally used it, but my cousin did in his FX35 CLICK FOR LINK Look at the 5th picture down. It is good stuff, but I don't think it will "cover" dash cracks only mask it. As in being pliable, I was told that a heat gun works wonders in manipulating the DINOC.

Small update: 1. Tried to remove lugs from wheels (To patch it) got 3 out but the last had a lock. Didn't realize it was locks until after I rounded it out 2. HID's Were acting up on me. Turned out to be a loose connection. (Things like this make me want to rip out the entire car, and rewire it my way) 3. I am going to order a r/t mount and maybe along with a full urethane bushing kit. 4. Got the car registered, and now on to the insurance. 5. Cleaned up the old polish around the body panels, and the soot under the hood. 6. I might purchase and start slowly applying Por 15 to the under body. (That stuff is expensive!) 7. Found the oil leak, turned out to be the oil pan gasket.

I too am in confusion about editing my original post in order to update the progress of my build thread. Any Ideas?

Just googled it, Man I thought the 2010 Suburbans were big. (If I need any parts then I will let you know, Daytona isn't too far) For the lights did you try running another ground to the lights to isolate the problem? Check the fuses, brake light switch, and for water damage from failed gasket, and I forgot the bulb) Good luck

I doubt it, since I am working when it starts, and I don't even have registration,tag or insurance for the car yet. EDIT: Updated progress Check Post #2

Sweet, I like that picture too. It has a ignored beater look to the average observer but if a Z enthusiast looks at it they can recognized it's potential Thanks for the comments. I see that there is growing trend for younger Z enthusiasts. I also learned some VERY valuable advice from a Z owner nearby. I went to his house to look at his $800 "Parts car". He told me if I wanted to drive a Z while I am still attending high school, then look for a higher costing Z. It would cost more initially, but in the long run it will cost less because of the lack of rust or large need for a paint job. I am very glad that I followed his advice. I can drive the car, while still modifying it; instead of leaving it on jack stands for a year trying to "restore" it and still not having an immediate first car to drive,

I would love to but: I am working at that time and I don't have a tag, registration or insurance for the car yet.

Reserved

Did the bumper shock removal today: Learned 4 things: 1. I HATE those rubber fuel lines/filler neck. 2.I need a ratcheting combination wrench. 3.WD-40 is amazing 4. Be OCD about where you keep the screws you just removed Overall removing the tank it was pretty easy. The hardest parts were removing those damn rubber hoses. Cleaned up the tank a little, Even though no one else will notice, I get a warm fuzzy feeling inside when I think about it. Pics Before and After

Hey everyone, Let me reintroduce myself. I am in high school. My first car was narrowed down to 2 choices: BMW E30 and Datsun 280z. I was searching for about 5 months till I found her. I would like to personally thank JSM for helping me with some very valuable advice when purchasing the car. (Even though I didn't follow the advice 100% ) Here are pictures of my baby. (These pictures are the base line) (The pictures make the car look very reddish, but in real life it is more of a Dukes of Hazzard Orange in person) The total amount of rusted through areas is less than 1 sq foot. It has retrofitted HID lights (VERY Bright at night) Has a subbox The interior is in remarkable condition Dash has no cracks, only a small nick on the drivers side Lots of little dings and dents on the body overall Engine runs a little rich First things to do are: Create Service History/Modification Binder/Journal of 280z Replace Suspension Bushings Remove Bumper Shock. Track down slow oil leak Track down the running rich problem. IF possible get a different exhaust (Sounds too rice in my opinion) Change oil Add relay to HID Lights Patch the nail hole in the tires. Learn how to drive a stick While I was bored at school I created an overall plan of attack that I hope to follow: • Stage 1 1. Initial Drivability Modification/ Maintenance 2. Repair Rust/ Paint color matched orange body panels 3. Rust Prevention/ Por-15 or alternative on chassis 4. Relocate Battery box to trunk, install kill switch 5. Replace Suspension bushings 6. LQ9/T56 Swap • Stage 2 1. Reinforce Chassis 2. Exhaust System with Cutouts 3. Body Work/ Shaving Modifications 4. Spray entire car (Victory Red) 5. Powder coat permanent components • Stage 3 1. General Lightning Retrofit with LED 2. Rewire with MOSFET electrical system 3. Reconnect A/C system with MOSFET system. 4. Install Carputer 5. Fiberglass Dashboard 6. Fiberglass Sub box 7. Install Racing Seats with harness 8. Reupholster interior 9. Keyless Entry/ Immobilizer • Stage 4 1. Rear/Front 5-Lug and disc brake swap 2. Aftermarket Wheels • Stage 5 1. Fuel Cell/Supporting Fuel System Upgrade 2. Nitrous 3. Roll Bar 4. Aftermarket Suspension Shock/Springs 5. Aftermarket alignment modifications 6. Tune Suspension 7. Powder coat Suspension • Stage 6 1. Built LQ9 2. Built T56 3. Upgraded Diff 4. Turbo/Intercooler System 5. Tune 6. Suspension Tune Endgame Plan 1. Clean Straight car 2. Smooth idling but rev monster 3. Exhaust is refined but exotic with cutouts capability 4. Vintage-Classy Look 5. Chevy Victory Red with Shaved Body 6. Carputer integrated with MOSFET system 7. Black leather interior with red stitching 8. Remote Operation/ Tracking via mobile phone/internet 9. Air conditioning with MOSFET and Carputer integration 10. Fiberglass Sub box 11. Power Windows/ Power Locks / Keyless Entry 12. Backup Camera/ Forward Infrared Camera 13. HID with low/high beams 14. Removable Steering Wheel 15. Performance Control Panel 16. Extreme Overdrive Gear 17. 2 Step Launch Control 18. Dynamat Covered Interior I thought about this attack for about an hour. It will take YEARS for me to complete. If I could do everything in Stage 1 by the end of Senior Year I will be happy ( I am a junior) I tried to design it in such a way that you only have to buy a part ONCE and not completely replace it later. I doubt I will ever go beyond STAGE 5 Things will change around as opportunities come, and while I become a Z Guru.

If you want a "real" wood look, I would look into hydro-dipping it. That might be a good possibility Good Luck