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About Zcardiesel

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/28/1985

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    Florence, AZ
  1. I have a 75 280z 2+2 that's a project car in South central PA if you're interested. Let me know.
  2. Haniel, I have a 75 280z 2+2 that is not rust free, but overall has little to light rust. 55k original miles and originally from Texas. Been on the east coast at least a decade. Car is in South central PA. Let me know if you're interested.
  3. I actually am a member over there already. Been a member of that forum for over a decade, but traffic is slower over there so getting a response is harder. I did place an order last weekend through Nissan Parts Deal and even though it showed the diesel head gaskets as available on the parts callout screen after I ordered the gasket I got an email the next Monday saying the gaskets are no longer available. I emailed Cometic to see if the could make an LD28 head gasket seeing as they sell two different thickness gaskets for L-gas engines.
  4. I was expecting to have to put in a request on this engine, but luckily you are right with them being able to cross reference another application. I will look into this and thanks for the advice.
  5. Howler, did you find anything out with the L28 head studs and do you know if an L28 head gasket can be used on an LD28? Apparently diesel head gaskets are no longer available...
  6. Thanks for your answer and doing the little bit of leg work to find out. If they are the same I would like to buy a set for a build.
  7. Hi, I am wanting to know if the head studs for the L24-L28 gas engine will work on the LD28 diesel? Or if not is there a difference in diameter size between the head bolts on both engines? Looking to build a diesel and would prefer to run studs. Also, anyone ever get a price on studs to be made for the diesel through ARP? Thanks.
  8. Ok, update on working on the car. Using the fuel injection guide and doing some testing I have confirmed that the fuel pump runs with the key in the "ON" position and when I open the flap on the AFM. Pulled the air intake pipe and air filter housing off the car to also look inside at the flap. Also in the testing they want you to unplug the ignition lead wire to the control unit and test it with a test light to see if there is power with key "ON". Is this wire plug a single wire that has a blue wire on one side and a white wire on the other? I unplugged it and think it's the right one but not
  9. I will recheck timing and last weekend when I worked on it I did not have a fuel covered spark plug when I pulled #1 out. NewZed, I did confirm I have spark when I took the #1 plug out and tied it close to the valve cover. Didn't check any other plugs, but if they are not covered I probably should try starting fluid. I will look into the contact points on the AFM and try to clean them. Did not think about the fuel pump relay and where is it located? I know the pump runs, has power to it, and works. If I take the wire off the starter solenoid and then turn the ignition to "start" and hold it th
  10. I'm sure that's a problem and getting new, fresh gas in it would be a start. Shortly after I bought the car when I went to pull the drain plug on the tank it didn't flow but a few drops, so I hope the tank is not plugged or gummed up. But after I changed the original fuel pump with a good fuel pump, primed pump to get gas up to the filter, I did get the engine to start for 1-2 seconds but then shut right off. This was all done 4 years ago, now after changing the distributor I haven't even got it to want to fire or start. Could I have a bad AFM? I did not hear the fuel pump run with key "on" an
  11. Update...I did end up changing my fuel pump shortly after I bought the car. I have now finally got a chance to get my hands back on this thing and work on it. I bought a good, rebuilt distributor for the engine a while ago because last I noticed the wiring for the distributor had been chewed in half. I just got done installing the replacement distributor today and the engine still will not start. I have confirmed that the fuel pump is working and pumping fuel up to the fuel filter and out into the rubber supply line going to the metal line that feeds the injectors. With the solenoid disconnect
  12. Interesting to know and thanks for the links. I see the first one clearly just bolts right in with the pictures of it in a car.
  13. Does anybody make a bolt-in intercooler for the Z's?
  14. I'm looking for a good condition distributor wiring harness that is a blue 3-wire twisted trio running from the distributor over to a plastic box on the front driver's side inner fenderwell on the Z in my signature. The harness has been chewed in half by mice, so I am in need of a replacement. For an L28 engine in a Datsun 280z 2+2. Thanks.
  15. Thanks for your reply. Working on the car and figuring it all out has been on the back burner because I got about 2 or 3 other projects I'm working on at the same time. But, to clear things up this is with the good, used fuel pump I bought back in July (which is actually a turbo engine fuel pump, but it bolted right in place). And as a matter of fact when I replacd it the fuel line that goes from the outlet of the fuel tank into the pump did not pour gas out when I removed it. I got a brown looking fluid mix when it came out of the inlet nipple on the tank itself, so I think I do have a re
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