Jump to content
HybridZ

jerryb

Members
  • Posts

    1001
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by jerryb

  1. Lowcarbz is sooooo right. If you are fruggle and want the challenge of finding good used parts...Im confident you can get away with less than you think. It will take time and effort and the car wont be perfect....but damn good!

     

    On the otherhand...if your wallet is deep and a "perfect" restoration trailer Z is desired....perhaps $40K+ is possible, depending what platform you start with.

     

     

     

     

     

    Well that's so subjective. You could spend a lot of money on mechanical stuff and have a car that runs great but leave all the cosmetics alone. Or spend little money replacing mechanical, only what's needed and have a nice looking car. Or go all out.

     

    I mean for a budget build car I don't think you'll find a much better candidate for your money than a Datsun.

  2. So true...up here a $1200 rust free shell is a hell of a deal. The price is not as important as the condition of the goods. A perfect $1200 shell may save you thousands in the long run.

     

     

    I agree with blackice280zxt, the most important thing is to have a shell as close to rust free as possible; that is the foundation after all. Whether or not it is worth $1200 is entirely up to the person that will, or won't, pay that. I personally would offer $800, considering what you have described.
  3. No Im not saying that...sort of stretched my words didnt you.....?. I have tracked my Z with and without the rear bar..and havent noticed a big difference. If anything, it was easier without. We are discusing your early Z arent we?

     

    What Im saying is you will be able to take advantage of the rear bar more so if you have a fully balanced suspension. Perhaps more in line with what Europe was able to buy. To just throw on a rear bar wont make it handle better. Foe autocross, I agree with Johnc....it does help bring the rear around.

  4. Hey that's mine!

     

    It fits fine....lots of room. With the stock pipe and the one I built. My MAF touched but thats fixed now and most people dont run a blow throgh anyway.

  5. Nissan (I think NISMO) use to sell kits that would allow install of a 280 bar. A stupidly expensive braket

     

    If you plan to drive your Z on the street without track use ...the bar is not required. If anything, it will induce oversteer.

     

    I too have an early 71 and at one time had a rear bar installed. I ran that set up on the track as well and found that it over came the front and the car was tail happy. I had to remove it when I intsalled my CV shafts and never looked back. I assure you....with a stockish suspension and general crusing the rear sway bar is not required. Even on mine......far from stock....its not missed.

     

    Dont lose sleep over it.

  6. he told me that the intake pipe wouldn't clear the hood but thanks to you, and your z I now know it will fit.

     

    I ran the stock cross-over as well as the pipe I made....lots of room under there. If you want the RB26 side manifold look you can get one for the RB25 for $5-600.

     

    If all you want is 300whp.....it will take very little to squeeze that out of a stock RB25. .......and with careful budgeting $15K will go a long way to get the car running.!

  7. Oh come on Tony D...what did you expect. This is an old trick.... Dont tell me you have never heard of this??:mrgreen:

     

    Well, Im going to weld in the Original Vin from my car onto the firewall, and grind off the old vin(unless the indentaions are too deep, then ill just cut and weld in a clean plate) there is a spot for the vin on the cowl cover that bolts on in front of the dashboard, im just going to drill the rivets and place my vin on that cover.
  8. Presumably NISSAN started with layers of good metal that was "rust free". I trust they didnt do it to hide old weakened rails.

     

    I view these as a great replacement for the originals altogether.....but to box in old ...weakened..rusty...etc ...isnt right. Sounds like a quick band-aid.

     

    I bet some will just slap them over the old rusty rails. AND I bet you would be pissed if you bought a Z for too much that was "fixed" in the way I describe....with rusty rail under the caps.

     

     

    "Layers of sheet metal", is nothing new to an S30. Nissan did it all over the place. Why can't we?

     

    Thanks, Zzeal.

  9. Getting parts for the RBs ais not a problem all. Many dealers are willing to get them and a number stock the parts. Many other sources are available as well.

     

    As far as pricing goes......why not consider the RB25. All due respects to the RB26.....but the 25 is capable of pulling off huge horsepower as well, even with a stock bottom end....and is less coin. And it comes with the tranny!

     

    Its also NISSAN!

     

    Just another spin......good luck with your decision. Either way it will be a great ride.

  10. We use a CO2 blaster at work for final cleaning of parts. We refer to it as a snow job.

     

    It wont remove rust in anyway but removes finger prints and the such very well. To be able to remove paint must involve a lot more presuure!

     

     

    as hard the paint is, you would imagine it knocking off the rust just like sand. my sand blaster does not even come close to this. that must a be a new one using dry ice? never seen it before.
  11. But the Jaguar E type influence on the 240Z styling escapes me, except in a very general way. .....

     

    I feel the S30 was influenced by the XKE, but did not copy it. The long front end and headlight look.....

     

    Saying that many cars took similar cues. Lets face it, car designers feed off each other. One style is an extaension of one or many others. Its all good.

     

    Things gradualy improve and once in a while something very new hits the streets.

     

    We could argue this around the skid pad forever.

×
×
  • Create New...