mario_82_ZXT

I used to get ~30 freeway with my turbo swap. A local car with a 3l turbo motor gets low 20s if he keeps his foot out of it, and will stomp most anything out there if he gets on it. Turbo is the way to go, just work on your tune. NA cars are fun and all but get old after a while, just ask my roommate with a NA 3l 12.5:1 setup... (he's itching to build a turbo motor)

True, but I think the concept might be similar. Take a look at the assembly instructions at megamanual.com, I think the MSD box's output might be too noisy for the way your box is built.

If you want those diff ratios, manual ZXs 81-83 have a 3.9 (and if your car is a stock manual it will bolt right in). If yours was an auto, or has an R-180, or don't mind going to an R-180, the Nissan truck front diffs in a 4.11 are pretty easy to find. There was 3 in a yard local to me.

From a distant perspective (having never really paid VG30es much attention) I thought breaking 200hp was a huge feat in those motors (NA at least). Are you sure it's got that much power?

How much boost are you running? I normally run 7s on cars with >10psi of boost. The -11 means they come pre-gapped at 1.1mm, I don't know if you're supposed to gap Iridium plugs or not. Again, on my engines we use BPR7ES (not -11s) and those usually come gapped at .030 (or somewhat close). I would imagine that is the case with your plugs. One other thing, why Iridiums?

Unless you're going to be running a huge cam I don't think you need a TPS. I've never had an issue tuning NA car or turbo cars without one, and one of them has a pretty big cam (~.500 lift)

Maybe it's different in colorado but I can't find an R154 for under $700 locally. Also I thought the bell housings were >$400 plus shipping from most places. Same with the oil pan, last time I priced one out it was a lot more. I heard a good place to get them is a Celica Supra site as they need a front sump setup, and most will trade you for a front sump. Why not just get a mid sump engine from the start?

Did you build the box? You're basically running of the coil "-" (negative). There's some things you can change to make it more resistant to noise. Check the build instructions at megamanual.com

There's a guy local that's running a big turbo at 16psi on a stock 10:1 NA volvo engine on E85! It's a total sleeper too.

Sign up for a course on TIG at the local CC. Most places have pre-reqs for the TIG class, but if you explain your situation, they will most likely let you in (hobbyist, have a TIG at home). Nothing beats having someone with years of experience show you how to weld! That and my teacher used to pull up youtube videos once a week on welding and we had to point out what was wrong in the videos!

You can use megasquirt with that trigger wheel as is. This trigger wheel is for running COP, EDIS, or whatever floats your boat without a crank trigger.

Hey Tony, if the Scott you're talking about has a blue Z, he put down 198hp on a hot day with triples. I don't know if he's done more to that motor since it's had the SUs but that car sure does scoot!

I hope he doesn't mind me posting it. Delete .txt from the end! CAS_Trigger_Wheel.dxf.txt

I thought you weren't supposed to do that because the bypass is on the adapter. Well... Just make sure you use quality filters and do religious oil changes. I've looped the lines on mine til I installed an oil cooler.

I found one but it's got very small wire solder things as well (came with an MS kit from DIY). What size wire are you trying to run? I think 18ga, maybe even 20 is acceptable for everything except the injectors and the grounds.