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Found 37 results

  1. Greetings. With the lack of a Fender Mirror template for S130 on Google Image search, thought I'd make one, submit it, and let the Interwebz do its thing. These are two sources of Mirror locations I've gotten. Anyone really disagree? Thanks for any input.
  2. I'm looking to get the following electronics from an '82-'83 ZX turbo: - Wiring harness - ECU Also need a driveshaft from a manual '82-'83 ZX turbo that has the BW T5 transmission. Located in Everett, WA. A bit north of Seattle. Hoping to get the electronics for $150 or less and the driveshaft for under $100. Doing an L28ET swap into a '76 S30 so if you've got anything else that you think I might be interested in feel free to shoot me a pm. - Brandon
  3. Hello, Me and my friends have started the first of what's going to be a huge series of "Budget Boosting" your car. If you want to know more details on the topic, check out the YouTube video at "http://youtu.be/5-1SnD5ZY5k" Hopefully you learn something, there is a lot of information in this episode. Have a great boosting day!
  4. Everything must go! I bought this '83 ZX for its front spindles, rear brakes and wheels, but all other parts are up for grabs. It doesn't have an engine block but most of the body is in straight shape (except one dent on the front passenger fender, underlying structure perfectly sound) and there are plenty of smaller parts available. I'm willing to take a Sawzall and cut out any body piece you need. Interior was black and gray originally. 109,885 miles on the chassis. I'm located in Southern Utah, about 2 hours north of Vegas and 3.5 hours south of SLC. Local pickup is welcome and shipping will be in addition to the stated prices here. Anything that doesn't sell is getting crushed when I scrap the remains of this car. Will consider trades for 510 parts. I currently am looking for a driver side exterior door handle (should be the same as an S30 one), a full set of seatbelts, a stock external rearview mirror, metal pillar vents, a hood release setup (cable & handle), auto trans column shift position indicator, hazard light switch knob, battery hold-down hardware, L16 lower thermostat housing and other miscellaneous small bits. Also might consider trades for some stock 240Z front LCAs and/or plastic seat adjuster covers. Body, Exterior & Glass: front & rear bumpers $30 ea. - front bumper has a small chunk missing from the rubber on the passenger side rear quarter panels $50 ea. rear hatch with good hatch glass $50 doors $50 ea. - if these don't sell I'll part out the glass, power motors, switches and handles - interior door panels are cracked unfortunately driver side fender $20 - great shape passenger side fender $10 - has a decently big dent in the lower rear headlight housings - $10 / set side marker lights $5 ea. - I have lenses and housings for both rear and one front, plus a front housing with no lens taillights $15 / set – the lenses are cracked, but the harnesses, bulbs, back plates and metal brackets should be good license plate light housing - $10 quarter window glass $10 ea. - has peeling old tint, but glass itself is in good shape wiper motor with linkage $20 - untested passenger side t-top with cracked glass - $10 gas tank $25, gas tank straps $10 - no sending unit or fuel pump Engine Bay: AFM $5 engine crossmember $15 W48 intake manifold $40 – I have the EGR valve and throttle body to throw in with this if they're wanted exhaust manifold with O2 sensor $20 D6K82 distributor with E12-93 matchbox ignition module $80 – I run this exact same matchbox module on my 240Z injector cooling fan $10 horns $5 /set brake booster with aluminum spacer $20 – unknown condition of diaphragm Drivetrain: R180 (3.545 ratio) $40 u-joint halfshafts $25 ea. Driveshaft $40 3N71B automatic transmission $50 - comes with lockup torque converter, flexplate, shifter, linkage and fluid lines - missing speedo pinion speedometer cable - $5 Suspension & Steering: front & rear sway bars $20 ea. front LCAs $20 / set T/C Rods $20 / set steering column $20 rear crossmember $20 Interior: digital dashboard cluster (untested) $30 seat brackets - $10 ea. - original seat covers are cracked from wear and tear plus sun exposure dash mounted cruise control switch $5 complete wiring harness - $100 – stem to stern with intact dash harness and engine harness 1983 specific ECU $15 - I'll throw this in for whoever buys the whole wiring harness, provided they want it arm rests - $20 / set heater box, blower motor box and A/C evaporator box $30 for all or $15 ea. all the plastic HVAC hoses and outlets - $5 / set – great shape, no holes If anyone thinks I'm too far off on any of my prices then feel free to make an offer.
  5. I got a buddy at a design school in Raleigh, and he wants to digitally model my 280ZX. The guy's in school for videogame/movie design, and this is all part of a project for a class he's taking. I've done some googling and forum searching, but I can't find what I'm looking for, at least not for free. Anyone got something like a technical drawing or blueprint of the car? BTW, I'll see if I can post a shot of the model when it's done.
  6. Hello everyone! Im new to the z world and have just recently purchased a 81 280zx N/A. i would like to take it to my local track for open run an time attack. my question is . Has anyone used the k sport coilover set up an if so what needs to be welded on the kit? Hopefully this isnt a tired subject but i cant find any info on the s130 coilover kits. Thanks Chris
  7. Jordon

    Datos

    From the album: 280ZX

    Home at last
  8. Jordon

    Dato3

    From the album: 280ZX

    Front coilovers installed
  9. Jordon

    Dato2

    From the album: 280ZX

  10. Jordon

    Dato1

    From the album: 280ZX

    Finished with most of the paining
  11. Hey HybridZ! Been a member for awhile now I don't post as much as I used to but here I am finally letting go of my longtime project 280zx since I bought it in 2007. It's actually pretty frustrating letting go but I must part ways with her and let someone else give a shot at it since my financial status has just recently changed and no longer can afford to put anymore money into her. So here's the deal since I bought the Z there she has been threw some bumps on the road, first was the hit & run on the front while I was at work 2 years after I purchased her, second I moved quite a few times and due to that I am not able to located the title I can swear that its one I found about a month ago that was soaked in water from water damage to my garage but this wasn't the only 280zx I have owned. I wanted to be upfront with everyone that is interested I am not trying to screw anyone over, the Z is still registered and tagged until May of this year. I live in Southern Oregon (Medford to be exact) any vehicle here that's 20 years or older does not require smog of any kind so to rule out any questions about smog I would not know since I haven't own any car that's newer 1986 for a long time now. So lets start, I am selling my 1981 Datsun 280zx that has a 1983 280zx Turbo drivetrain, L28ET engine , Borg Warner 5 speed transmission both had 70k miles when I pulled off the running donor car, stock R200 3.90 diff, turbo CV Axles with new cv boots, It has a rebuilt P90a Head solid lifter just last year so not long ago, has a AiResearch T3/TO4E Turbo was already in the donor car, running on Z31 87 ECU & MAF done by previous owner from the donor car, Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter, MSD SS Blaster Coil, new cap & rotor, new spark plugs & wires, MSA front & rear sway bars with polyurethane bushings, Koyo aluminum radiator with dual electric fans, stock 280zx turbo exhaust with megan 3" muffler, 16 inch Ultra mesh wheels believe 16x7. The Z does not smoke but it does run really rich and burns a lot of fuel not oil and no leaks at all, I drive it threw town regularly and runs decently smooth as long as I am not on WOT and when I try to it doesn't seem to have half the power. On a cold day it will run the best or when engine is not fully warmed up but it does hick up here and there but not always when driven. The main thing to get fixed is get the O2 sensor put on I had an adapter nut that would fit or so I thought and fell off sometime ago I am using the Z31 O2 the 280zx O2 sensor is covering the hole, lately the Z sits but I do still drive it around town to give it a good warm up and drive it back home. If I drive it too regularly the car will have a rough idle and idle really low until I give it a little gas and let it warm up, 4 weeks ago I took the spark plugs out one by one and every single one was black with carbon burned on the top cleaned them and would run much better after that. I also wanted to add that I have a really nice parts car same year and color but has no engine or trans and has a rear end damage it was given to me by a friend, it can replace some of the bad parts on the running Z as you will see in the pictures. Also the parts car has a Rack & Pinion that can replace the ball steering on the running Z to give the turbo some more room. I am asking $2500 obo pm me your offer No Trades and can't part it out, will sell with or without the parts car as I stated parts car was free, I would love to see it go to a Z enthusiast and he/she can hopefully get it all restored or become a fun weekend maybe a daily driver as it was for me. Again I am located in Medford, Oregon about an hour & half away from the border of California and about 4-5 hours from Portland, Oregon. I would love to get it sold before the end of this month but all to its time. Contact me 541-210-7639 my name is Jorge, Text me 541-844-7556 or PM me! Parts Car, spoiler is no longer on the car.
  12. I have a 76 s30 280z with the toyota 4 piston calipers installed up front and stock drums in the rear. I just installed a used 81 s130 280zx brake master cylinder and booster. Both bmc and booster were taken off a junkyard 280zx. The install was pretty easy and straight forward. Just had to take off the spacer and flip the booster and everything bolted up fine. I have bled the brakes in the proper order but there is a problem. The brakes don't work. Basically with the car off the brake pedal builds no pressure. The pedal is spongey about 3/4 of the way down and then super loose at the last 1/4 When the car is on there is absolutely no pressure or resistance or anything. The pedal just goes straight down to the floor with no effort. The brakes don't even work a little. From what I can tell there are no leaks. I read it might me be a push rod issue or brake pedal linkage? Any other suggestion on what the problem might be?
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