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One pair of lightly used PAC Racing coilover springs. 2.5" inner diameter, 6" free length, 250 lb/in. Orange powder-coated. $75 shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking.

One pair of used Swift springs, lightly used one year in the off-season for street use. Still in excellent condition. 7" free length (178mm); 2.75" inner diameter (70 mm); 224 lb/in (4 kg/mm). These are universal coilover springs that will fit any strut setup that uses a spring with 2.75" (70 mm) ID. The Swift part number is Z70-178-040. $85 shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking.

Full set of BC Coilover springs for sale. One pair is 62.220.006, never installed. One pair is 62.180.005, lightly used. $50 per pair, shipped anywhere in the U.S; or $90 for all four springs shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking.

I have FINALLY finished just about everything for my coilover conversion in my 1978 280z with Stance coilovers. I also have TTT control arms. I am at the point of dialing-in the ride height. Stance gave me four 6" threaded sleeves. I had them welded right to the hubs in the front and 3" above the hubs in the back. I was hoping to maintain stock height or maybe 1" lower than stock. Well after getting everything on and lowering the car, it looks like the front was lowered around 1" and the back was lowered around 2". I would like to crank the rear up another inch. The problem is, the threaded sleeve is currently only on by about 5 threads in both front/rear. I am afraid to crank it up in the back because I feel like the coilover will sheer off if I go any higher with so few threads holding. So my questions are... How many threads are "safe" when screwing the sleeve into the coilover? I have not done anything with alignment, track width, etc. Will any of these affect my ride height? What are my options for raising the car if I can't unthread the sleeves anymore? Can I use a top-plate spacer or something?

I finally got around to installing my Sakura Garage / Stance Coilovers in November of last year. The car is a 77 280Z w/ 5 speed. I have been daily driving this car since 2008 and I have put 65000 miles on the chassis in the last 6 years. Most all of those miles were on a poly bushing kit, stock springs, cheap replacement kyb struts, and stock brakes. The only real upgrades to the car have been an o-ring fuel rail with 22RE injectors swapped in, and some custom captive engine mounts built by myself and another engineer friend utilizing the mustache bar bushings. Other than those two items the car was in its stock form up until this swap. I was also running 14X6 turbine wheels w/ 195/70-14 Yokohama Avid S Touring Tires. I did this swap almost entirely by myself over a four day period. Tools I used: Miller 180 Mig welder (Autoset) w/ Argon CO2 mix and solid wire. 4.5" Angle Grinder with a cutoff wheel and a 120 grit flapper disc An edge deburring tool SawZall with Milwaukee Torch blades Saber Saw (for cutting out the towers, not my first choice but it is what I had at the time.) Hand Drill Center Punch Angle Finder I have a couple thousand miles on this kit now and I am extremely happy with it. 6k front / 7k Rear on 16X8 Rota Grids (5mm spacer in front) w/ 225/50-16 Hankook RS3 tires all the way around. This is a phenomenal R-comp tire. Very happy with the grip. I also swapped to a set of Vented 300ZX rotors and S13W calipers off a 95 4Runner. This is the caliper that other suggest be avoided. Pedal is a bit soft w/ all the vac assist from the motor but I can maintain stock travel and feel if I give the brakes a "confidence pump" when slowing/stopping. I am running Porterfield R4S pads and shoes all the way around. Good pad but very dusty, I will be looking for a new compound to run in the front due to the dust. The vented rotor spacer is one of my own design. I forgot to take pics of them. Disassemble the front end I ground the nub off first (Cover your engine bay/windshield) so you don't spray sparks and grit on them) I used the old isolator and bolted the drill template from Sakura Garage in place to hold the pattern in place while I center punched the drill locations. I used a small bit (1/8" or slightly smaller) to drill a pilot hole for the 1/4" bit I used for the final hole size. I laid the vanity plate over the holes I drilled and traced the slots onto the strut tower with a sharpie and started cutting with the cutoff wheel and the saber saw. I used some blue tape to help keep the saber saw from beating the paint on my towers. If you let it bounce it will hammer your paint. Struts Marked a reference location on the ground to measure my strut tube angles (oriented like caster and camber) before welding and after. After scribing a line a 1/4" above the spindle casting, I cut off the strut tubes with the cutoff wheel and hack saw just above the scribed cut line. I then used the flapper disc to smooth the cut down to the line and hit the edges with the deburring tool. I only had to relieve the adapter tube slightly to fit it around the bump on the spindle. I then tacked the 6" tube on to the spindle and checked the angles were the same as the stock tube. Once I had everything where I wanted it I did three caterpillar welds to fuse everything together. I am a welding newb, but I was satisfied and confident with my results, the miller makes it pretty easy. All finished inside On the car I countersunk my plates for M5 Flat Heads since I have access to a mill. Rear Struts The rear is kind of a repeat of the front so I will mostly just post the pics for this section. The rear isn't as well documented as I was running out of time to finish since I had to drive this to work on Monday and I was feeling pretty beat. These are the 9" rear tubes for the 280Z. I cut the strut tubes off 3/4" above the casting since the rear on a 280 is taller and the front strut will bottom out before the rear ever will. I pie sliced and beat down the nub to fit the template the same as I did the front. You could probably do this up front as well. Less mess I think. I have a taste for flashy zazzed things. I am really happy with how this design turned out and glad I was able to work with Sakura Garage to put it together. If you are looking to do coilovers, I highly recommend this kit. I really do love it, the car has an enjoyable performance ride and the handling is superb. I'm looking forward to taking it on the track next weekend. I will get some after shots of the car put up soon. Thanks for reading

Hey guys, I am very unhappy with the way the eibach progressive springs and kyb shocks ride. I feel the car is bobbing around and having a hard time loading the suspension into slightly more aggressive corners. I am in the process of ordering some BC Coilovers for my 280 (1JZ, poly bushings , 245/40R17, 17x9 and ZG flares(presently its on blocks and being assembled). The car will be primarily a daily driver in the spring, summer, fall with the odd autocross day. I don't want to slam it, making it difficult to navigate city streets or sore after driving for an hour lol. I would like it to look decent with good handling. After reading through some of the comments It seems like the standard coil overs do not drop the car very much (0-2"). The s30 especially the 280z is SUPER high and needs to be brought down a bit.... After speaking with BC they told me I can define the exact drop I would like so I am thinking of getting a custom kit with a 1.5-4.5" drop. (4k(225 lb/inch) in the front and 5k (280 lb/inch) for the rear. (Stock is 115.4 Front, 127.7 Rear)) They also said they will be changing the shock body size and stroke based on my request. For a standard lowering kit they run 230mm body with 110mm of travel in front and 290mm body with 140mm travel in rear. They will probably take 20mm off each body and stroke length if I get a lower kit. Pretty neat eh... Any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi all, I'm tackling suspension and chosen to go with a coil-over conversion. I've looked into companies such as Stance, BC Racing, Ground Control, and Arizona Z Car. I notice that a big selling points for some of these companies is the inverted strut design they use for their shocks. From my research I've pulled the following pros and cons to inverted struts. Pros: -Shock is less prone to leaking -Shock body (sort of) acts as a suspension arm (in the MacPherson Strut design) -Even compression within the shock -Lower temperature of shock oil during compression Cons: -Clunking (a lot of Subaru guys get this, is it just an OEM shock thing?) -Cost -Adjusting the stiffness of rebound/compression is less convenient Because I don't foresee myself ever using stickier rubber than street-able r-comps (think Advan A048) and considering my car is my daily (I go to Laguna Seca twice or three times a month), would it be wiser to go the DIY Ground Control conversion route or would it be worth it to drop ~1500 dollars on Stance/Arizona Z Car coil overs? Thanks, Liam

Hello all. I'm currently looking at the potential of using Bilstein 34-030936 B6 HD Struts in a coilover conversion (77' 280z). This strut is designed to fit a 94-98 SAAB 900, various models. I have searched and read as much as I can on this site regarding this mod. This option was mentioned by Justin Olson (thread/post) but it doesn't appear that a great deal of research was actually put into this particular strut as Justin chose to go with the 3000GT option. According to Justin and other related posts, these Bilstein struts (36mm) have the following specs: Bilstein 34-030936 (formerly PE3-3093-H0): Body Length: 13.75" Compressed Length: 14.75" Extended Length: 20.50" Stroke: 5.75" Damping (rebound/compression): 230/60 It appear this would be a relatively good match to the Z with springs in the neighborhood of 250 lb/in but obviously a re-valve would be required for optimum performance. I'd greatly appreciate any inputs/thoughts you have on this mod or this strut specifically. Does anyone know if the upper mounting diameter is the common Bilstein 14mm? I'm planning to use Ground Control Camber/Caster plates.

Hello! I'm new to the "Z-Community" but what I can say so far is that it's GREAT! The enthusiasm and support so far has been fantastic. I recently purchased 1974 260Z with 56,000 miles on it. The car sat, covered on a car-port for nearly 30 years. I have a four phase plan for the car. Phase 1: brakes and Suspension Phase 2: drive train Phase 3: Engine upgrade phase 4: Body and Paint. I look forward to sharing the build with the community and drawing on the experience that is available. I hope that as my project progresses I can "pay it forward" to those that follow. Bob_260

I am looking for a good set of coilovers that will drop the car about 1 inch. They do not need to be top of the line, I will only be doing street driving but looking for a decent upgrade from my stock ones of 1978. Also a front sway bar. Thanks,

Hello from the UK! I've started to restore my rusty Datsun 206Z and having done a lot of research about suspension and coilovers I am in a bit of a pickle. Now from my understanding there are several ways of getting the Z lower. I've read through numerous threads about strut sectioning and also info on the 'screw on' McKinney (there are others) set up. However it doesn't seem to clarify how low you can go and level of adjustment with each set up. I would like to know the height adjustment and capabilities of each set up please. I plan to fit a 1JZ circa 400bhp in future but in the meantime will be running triple webers. Does this effect what front springs i should go for? What set up do you suggest? Do I get the McKinney Sleeves and camber plates then get some other coilovers to screw in? Not a fan of Meguns. We have these in UK that a lot of the drift boys use - http://www.hsdcoilovers.com/ I want my car to go this low but not this low all the time - http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/05/the-peoples-choice-sunnys-240z/ I dont know how much higher this can be adjusted from how it sits now. Using the car the odd weekend for fast road, drift and maybe the odd track day. Maybe even Nurburg. Thanks in advance

Hello everyone! Im new to the z world and have just recently purchased a 81 280zx N/A. i would like to take it to my local track for open run an time attack. my question is . Has anyone used the k sport coilover set up an if so what needs to be welded on the kit? Hopefully this isnt a tired subject but i cant find any info on the s130 coilover kits. Thanks Chris