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Showing results for tags 'Oil Pump'.
Found 3 results
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Hey All, Still working out numerous kinks as a noob on my 76 280z (w/ 77 motor). Latest project has been to wipe the bottom clean and watch for drips and fix so my garage doesn't always smell like fuel/oil. Among a couple various leaks, one that really has me scratching my head is a leak at the oil pump - where the gold color bolt is in line with the regulator spring (from what I understand from diagrams). Most forums related talk about leaks at the gasket/seal; I looked and looked and its dry above this bolt. There's always a drop of oil hanging off of that bolt, and apparently it has leaked for so long that it has coated most of the front end and drips down near my passenger wheel. I've cleaned this area up twice now and checked it the next morning and sure enough the front end it wet with oil and there's a drip hanging off that bolt. See the pic for the drop and you can see it drips down onto the front end below. Has anyone experienced this? It is a new oil pump installed 80 miles ago, and from my knowledge that bolt never gets messed with (I haven't at least). I think too much time has passed to get any help from the manufacturer on this. Being new to working on cars, if anyone can think of a no-brainer that I could be missing to resolve this I would appreciate it. I don't want to replace the oil pump again, especially with it in the car (wouldn't know where to start). Just for supporting info, the car runs and drives (has little quirks that still need fixing like climbing idle as it warms, etc), but oil pressure seems fine. Thanks in advance!
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Hello all, I'm a long time lurker here and am having issues with my fresh (600miles) rebuild. The engine is an 83 L28ET, using MS1 V3.0 with spark control, Holset HE351 turbo, mild turbo regrind cam, forged pistons (~8.5 to 1 CR). I did a WOT throttle run to redline testing a higher boost setting while datalogging, near redline (6k in my case) the car sputtered, missed, and backfired badly. I got off the throttle, coasted to a stop, engine is dead. Cranked it back up, only ran while applying throttle. Still backfiring and sputtering, I pulled over and got the car towed home. Removed spark plugs, verified even compression in all cylinders ~120PSI. Verified static timing, verified fuel pressure, plugs are clean and not fouled. I had a helper start the car and hold the throttle while I watched with a timing gun - the car is now firing 1 at ~33 deg BTDC. I then checked the distributor shaft - it looks slightly off, but not a huge discrepancy. I then rotated the dizzy to "account" for the extra timing and get it back to 20 deg BTDC. Car idles without throttle input now, but is still running like a pig, stutters, doesn't want to rev, etc. I decided to not risk any possible damage and starting documenting everything. Valve cover is now off, I've attached pics of the cam position and the hash mark, the harmonic damper's position relative to TDC, and also a pic of the distributor rotor and the shaft tang below. After plenty of searching, the only thing I can come up with is the oil pump drive gear has slipped several degrees, but that doesn't account for why the car still runs bad even after i artificially fixed the timing by retarding the distributor position. My next step is brand new fresh plugs, perhaps a new fuel filter to eliminate that possibility (car is getting 35 PSI at idle, but who knows might not have enough to run more?) Any ideas guys? And I apologize in advance if I've overlooked anything obvious... I'm naturally very worried and easily may have skipped over something. Also, please let me know if you need me to take pictures of anything else. Thanks!
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Wanted! 83 Turbo 280zx Distributor/Oil pump drive spindle (splined). I am installing a Microtech ECU on a F54/N42 setup in my 1974 260z 2+2. I have an '83 Turbo distributor (the very neat and simple later one with the flat plate crank angle sensor with 6 x sensor slots firing the pickup). I need however to find a splined type driveshaft for this as the one that came with the engine is the normal single gear parallel type. Otherwise does anyone know of an adaptor. Also, would buy the wiring harness that goes with this if anyone has one for sale? Cheers all
