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  1. rturbo930 - Yeah that's a good point. I actually had a 2+2 prior to this that started giving me all kinds of rust surprised I didn't see coming. I saw this one and DID see the slight rust on the paint around the window frame, but I didn't think it was this bad. At least I prepared for things to not necessarily go as planned. Thanks for the tip on the structural elements - I will give it a closer look tonight and reach out to a fabricator that has some interest in this project. Neverdone - I like the way you think. I actually have an almost identical spreadsheet as you describe. Ev
  2. I've got the interior about 95% gutted and have run into the first significant rust. I could tell by the condition of the paint around the quarter-panel windows that there was some level of rust along the C-pillar (?). Got the windows out and wow... worse than I thought, especially passenger side (see pic). Of course I cut my palm open on it while removing some weatherstripping. I'll probably have to get someone with a bit more fabrication experience than myself to tackle this rust area. As much as I'd like to try, I can't afford to screw up this area. Besides that, nothing too ex
  3. Thanks Neverdone! I did see this build thread when first entertaining the idea. My biggest worry is getting knee deep in that swap and saying to hell with it due to trying to figure that out on top of the scope of the rest of the project. Granted, if I could pull it off, I would prefer this swap! I have a good buddy that says you can take the guibo slip yoke out and run a 1pc shaft. ECU can be taken care of with an AEM harness. Being that I don't know what a guibo slip yoke is off the top of my head, I'm a little skeptical that I should be delving into that level of creativity. If ther
  4. Hey Everyone, After months and months of consideration, my 1976 280z is getting a new life. I've had this car for 2 or 3 years and have had it mostly running, but keeping finding small anomalies that turn into more and more fixes, and more questions about what the POs were trying to do with it. Well, my OCD has had enough and it's time for me to know every square inch of this car and have it the way I want it. I'd like to share this project no matter how it turns out, whether it helps someone else, or any of you all want to throw in your 2 cents - I would appreciate some veteran knowledge
  5. Hey All, Was driving my freshly "put together" 76 280Z (w/ 77 motor) around and I saw my temp gauge die out of nowhere. I checked the bullet connector at the sender (it was connected still), cleaned it up and can't get the reading back to the gauge still. I've read from other threads that a bad voltage regulator can cause this and oil pressure gauge to not function. My oil pressure gauge works fine. The sender and sensor are new, and coolant level is high enough. I'm no electrical guru, but I turned the key on and checked the voltage on the sender wire and grounded it and I get th
  6. Hey All, Still working out numerous kinks as a noob on my 76 280z (w/ 77 motor). Latest project has been to wipe the bottom clean and watch for drips and fix so my garage doesn't always smell like fuel/oil. Among a couple various leaks, one that really has me scratching my head is a leak at the oil pump - where the gold color bolt is in line with the regulator spring (from what I understand from diagrams). Most forums related talk about leaks at the gasket/seal; I looked and looked and its dry above this bolt. There's always a drop of oil hanging off of that bolt, and apparently it has
  7. Tony I think you're on point. I unfortunately had already butchered these and rebuilt them before I got any clear pictures (stupid on my part). I used better clamps than what they had on and am keeping a super close eye on things and so far so good. I got a few responses from the mfg that their engineers were looking into it and that they would send me replacements but they eventually went silent on it. It doesn't help that this aftermarket rail has slightly larger bars that after reassembly led to tapering my injector hoses again - but not nearly as bad. That's what I get for snagg
  8. It is the brand of injectors I purchased from RockAuto (AIRTEX/WELLS Part # 4G1017) They come with a ~2" EFI hose that is crimped to the injector. I have them clamped to an aftermarket fuel rail. The hose failed at the clamp connecting it to the fuel rail by forming a tear next to the clamp. The tear is slightly diagonal from the edge of the clamp. The fuel rail has slightly bigger barbs than the stock rail but the hose still fits on the aftermarket rail fine and can still be clamped with the same size clamps used on the stock rail. I contacted RockAuto to see if they've had folks rep
  9. Hello All, I had a frightening moment with my '77 280Z after replacing old fuel hoses. I started it up and one of the injectors with the factory crimped hoses tore and started spraying fuel down on my headers. Luckily there was no fire and I had an extinguisher in hand. What has me really disturbed about this is that I purchased these injectors last year and they've only been running on the car for a total of maybe 2 hours at most. My fuel pressure doesn't exceed 40psi (have a mounted gauge). I replaced the hose on this injector, which is described in other threads on this topic. I
  10. Thanks guys, The shifter bushings look good. There's a fair amount of play in the stick but I expected that (not knowing how much is normal from a 40 year old car). Once I get time I will check for the plate on top as mentioned by Six_Shooter. I did, however, have a moment to run out and snap a picture of the speedo cable area as mentioned by NewZed. If that indeed is a 100% way to tell the trans apart, mine matches the pic on the left (4 speed). Now that I feel like the ultimate moron, I will try lookin for that top plate to verify, as well as contacting the PO to try and figure out
  11. The lever doesn't go into 5th. So it's not like it's grinding or anything, more like hitting a "wall". The lever also takes about double the force to move to the right side (5th, R) than the left (1st, 2nd) if that means anything. I trust the guy I bought it from that it's a 5 speed and I'm pretty positive I ran it through the gears to verify at a stop (the car it came from was never really driveable). In other words I would be astonished if this was not a 5 speed, but I'd be lying if I said I hadn't missed something like this before - especially with this being so long ago. It didn't
  12. Hey All, I've searched all over for this topic and can't quite find what I'm looking for. Part of it may be my being green in the drivetrain area. I took a 76 280z (CA) and put the motor and 5spd from a 77 280z (2+2) in. After getting everything in place, the car drives and goes through gears 1-4 okay. It won't go into 5th no matter what and has a little trouble with reverse. From what I've read this sounds like a shift fork replacement is in order. I don't see any interference issues with the shifter and tunnel. 1) Would you put your money on this needing a fork replacement?
  13. Thanks for the response. I lubed up all the linkage bits and ran the car. I have the same symptoms. I did notice, like you said, if I pull back on the throttle pedal that it budges maybe 2-3mm and my revs drop around 100rpm. I don't think it's the main issue, but it's a good point and one I'll watch out for. I might bend that retracting spring behind the pedal a little bit out so it has more umph in restoring the pedal to the fully "up" position. Regarding the 800-900rpm idle - I should have mentioned I had my idle screw turned waaay in to compensate for the high idle while drivin
  14. Hello, I have a 77 280z powering a 76 280z cali chassis. This is my real car project and I feel I'm getting close to having this thing as a reliable daily driver. My issues is this: When starting my car, it idles around 800-900rpm and once I get going it starts to float up around 1200rpm. Once the car is warm I can easily find myself at a stoplight idling at 2k rpm. Now, if I leave the car in gear and basically bog it down (let the clutch partway out with the brake on), I can bring the idle down to anywhere I want between 1k-2k rpm. It is strange that it stabilizes wherever I "set"
  15. Maybe not what you're looking to do, but I am in the Denver area and have a spare L28 laying around that I would be willing to get rid of for pretty cheap. The compression numbers aren't fantastic on it but it's fuel injected (1976) and I would be willing to help you troubleshoot your way through it if you are interested. I'm just learning myself and am a year in on my 77 280z. Best of luck!
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