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About andypurce

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  • Location
    Sydney, Aus
  • Interests
    Working on my Z. Golf.

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  1. Does anyone know where I can purchase the corner pieces for the chrome window locking trim for both front and rear screens on my Z? I have searched known sites but to no avail. Thanks
  2. Being unaware of this thread before today I am pleased (!!!) to come across it and find that the maddening three hours I have just spent trying to match up my TTT front LCA to my modified brake and hub setup was not an unusual occurrence. I had already turned over the ball joint when I first installed it on the LCA but then when I presented it to the assembled brake/coilover I came across the problem. As I am lowering the car overall and fitting Roll Centre Adjusters my arm "just" fits - but its a feeler gauge gap! My front setup is cropped & welded strut casings; Otomoto HSD coilovers 55mm, 6.5kg springs, helpers, Koni 1220 Sport shocks; Toyota 4Runner 4 pot callipers, TTT 5-lug aluminium hubs; BMW E36 Vented 280mm rotors. The Rotors sit quite a way back on the stub shaft to align with the 4Runner calliper centreline (the callipers are straight bolt-ons to the standard lugs and the Rotors required a very slight skim but still well within the tolerences). Hence the close fit to the LCA. I am going to grind them back a little to allow reasonable for full movement changes - hate doing it to a new part but ce'st la vie!
  3. I am building a turbo L28 engine stroked and bored to 3.1 litres with an upgraded turbo. I have the 1983 CAS dizzy driving my Microtech ECU and Igniter box. I don't have the wiring harness for the dizzy that has the Green, black, red, white wires from the dizz going to Gr/Ye, Black, Bl/Wh, Gr/Bl wires in the EFI harness. I have read every post on this and there are some that describe the connections that correspond on the dizz end to the colours BUT there isn't one that correlates with another, in other words there are CONFLICTING posts. So I really need to get the correct way round. Here are the options I have seen. Looking at the dizzy four spade male connector box with the screw hole for fastening the harness on the top left corner.(see pic): One post says starting at top left going clockwise: Red, Green, Black, white. Second post says (same rotation) : Green, Red, Black, White. Also, if I am reading the FSM correctly it agrees with post one above. Can anyone Please help and confirm which is correct? Many thanks guys. Andy
  4. Wow, that worked a treat! I needed to brace the one side with a 2 ton press jack but two good whacks and its was off. Snap ring OK. Cheers friend. BTW these are 27 spline shafts - 30mm dia.
  5. Thanks - very helpful. I think it is a snap ring (shows one in the exploded view I have from the Z32 manual). That explains why it says it can't be dismantled but then shows slide hammer. Will get the big 'Omma out !!
  6. I am fitting the Techno Toy rear end conversion to my 260z. I have sourced the donor components from a z32 300zx but decided to shorten the axles myself as the cost of sending over and back to US from Aus was prohibitive. I have read all I can about this subject but i get conflicting opinions from both the threads on here and elsewhere and as there are a number of different axles / spline assemblies it is very type specific. My setup has an R230 VLSD with the 5 spoke diff stub axle outputs. These match to the 5 spoke CV shafts which are different lengths due to the Diff offset in the 300zx (RHS is longer). I have found a shop which will make me up new shafts, not a problem (I can't re-use the shafts I have as they narrow down in the section where I would need to cut the new splines). My problem is dismantling the wheel side CV assembly. The diff side is no problem - snap ring off, turn the assembly, balls drop out etc... But the manual says the wheel side cannot be dismantled then proceeds to say it can be taken off the shaft by using a slide hammer pulling on the wheel stub nut to pull the assembly off the shaft. Now, I may be missing the point completely but I can't see any way looking at the assembly that this can be done without breaking the circlip that holds the splined end into the ball race? The assembly casing looks close welded to me. Does anyone know how this can be done? Also, how do you re-install it ? Does the casing come apart when you give it enough welly? This latter action is the only way I can see that the shaft can be exposed and the cir clip then taken off ( and re-installed) but I can't see a joint on the assembly. If this is a factory sealed unit and thus can't be taken apart at all then does any Z'der in Aus know a CV manufacturer who will make new complete axles? Pics attached. Thanks all.
  7. Would you ship to Australia? What will you accept for the bars. Are they upgrades or stock size? Thanks.
  8. Do you have the seat belts (complete) still?
  9. I need the wiring, including connectors, for the output from a late 280zx. Turbo electronic distributor. This is the dizzy with the single circular 360deg plate with 6 x output marks at 60deg intervals which connects to the 280zx ECU and is driven by a splined driveshaft not a straight tongue. I need the 4 pin (female) connector for the dizzy end with it along with a length of the wiring. The other end is not important but preferable if you can split it out from the loom. Alternatively I would be happy to purchase a complete "engine section" wiring loom as I can use this in stead of adding bits to my 260z loom. Can pay by PayPal or EFT. Thanks Andy
  10. I am looking for a complete set of switches / warning lights for the centre console of a 260z/280z. With harness preferably but without is OK.
  11. Update on progress. The L28 engine is rebored and new pistons, race prepped rods and bearing set fitted. New oil pump, timing sprockets, chain and Kameari tensioner system fitted along with new seals of course. Second engine (stroker) is being rebored next week and all the Rebello racing kit is here to be installed. One cyl head, the E30, is in progress (being gas flowed) and the second N42 will be complete soon. This latter one has been nicely flowed and skimmed to around 11.5:1 comp ratio and will own a Camtech hot camshaft. The triple webers and manifold will be fitted to this for the road engine. Still to decide on the turbo setup for the stroker track engine. Body is now stripped bare - completely - and will start to be prepped for respray in the coming weeks. Some external body parts such as the front light cowlings and lower panels along with the front wings, doors and rear hatch are also stripped and ready for primer. Have purchased a complete back end from a 300zx and a bunch of kit from Techno Toy Tuning to go back on the car to upgrade the rear suspension and brakes. Also fitting 5 lug wheels front and back and 300zx front discs with Toyota 4Runner callipers. The line of parts being degreased, cleaned, polished, repaired or replaced seems never ending!! Budget has been blown already - expected about $25k but well over $30k now and still some to go! This is not a cheap hobby! Looking forward to getting the car repainted and starting to put something back on!! Most of the internal panels, dash etc... are in good condition but need to source the rear compartment plastic side panels as they are cracked and broken beyond repair. I am also looking for some Watanabe wheels - 5 lug 15x8 or 15x8.5 if anyone has to sell? I seem to have spread out all over the property - garage, storeroom, sheds, driveway and even the kitchen sometimes! Enjoying it immensely though and I know it will be a great vehicle when finished. Happy New Year Zeders! AndyP
  12. I am looking for the 2 x plastic side panels that go into the rear compartment. Must be for a 2+2 (either 260z or 280z). They each have perforated holes in the lower corner and cut-outs to fit. I will take items with minimal damage as long as they are not split or cracked. Also, need them to be shipped to Australia. Thanks.
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