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Showing results for tags 'Open'.
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I am a newbie. In the process of building a Velo Rossa out of a 240z. I have a R200 open differential already installed, but the driveshaft is not in yet. I have a racing buddy, who has an extra limited slip R200 differential that he wants to keep, instead of sell to me, as he may need a differential in the future. He locks his differentials, to the point that one wheel will bounce when you take a slow turn. Is there any reason my friend would rather lock up a limited slip diff versus an open diff? I would assume it is way easier to weld the open diff than to weld the lsd. Your thoughts?
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Bought a 71 240. It's gone from the shins down. Rust bucket to the max. If I live long enough, i'll be riding in her. I had a 71 back in 74. I have done collision work for 35 years or so and I have a decent interim knowledge of component relations. This is the link to the video of the first start. https://youtu.be/Oqve26DR7i0 Here is the data. Tail lights work. Left front park light works. Left front marker works. Both rear markers work. No headlights. Wipers work. Glove box light works. Courtesy light on dash works. I have not checked bulbs. Power to six out of 8 fuse supplies. No power to headlight fuses. Right turn indicator burns dim when lights are on. (ground problem?) Indicator goes out when the park tail fuse is pulled out. This car is not a junk yard dog. It is the pile that the dog left by the fence. But, it is a poor man's dream and I love to see the contrast when the project gets to the finish line. Yeah! Thanks, Fletch
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Some years ago I picked up an R200 along with the hardware to swap into an S30. It was supposed to be a viscous, and he said he pulled from an '88 turbo himself. The Guy had already had in his 240z, so he had fitted 2 4-bolt 'square' stub axles (the flange things that pop into the the diff, right?) that fit into the diff. One of them had been ground down to shorten the length of the shaft. It says 37:10 on the (ring?) gear. I've acquired a CLSD so I'm going that route instead. Besides, I did try it in my '78 for a while and was not impressed. Recently I've read that using the VLSD R200 is not viable because the spline count is unique and the '88 Shiro stubs have to be used. But it is clear, standard stubs fit into this diff. So what gives? 1) - either this is not truly a VLSD from an '88 shiro or 2) - the info on the incompatibilty of the Shiro VLSD is inaccurate I once visually compared the inside to an open R200 from a 280zx, and it was definitely different. What is it? Thanks for the help
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I had many issues with fuel starvation due to debris in my gas tank. It has already been coated with resin in the past so the only option to fix the issue for good was to open up the tank, shot-blast it & weld it back. So here are the steps taken so far. I need advice regarding how to weld it back. If somebody could chime in and let me know the best option, I would really appreciate First, obviously, tank was dropped from the car: I ground the lips to expose the factory welds: ...so I can use my angle grinder to cut the welds I've used a thick knife with a hammer to open up the tank ...to end up with tank in 2 pieces Shot blasting process is a no brainer, except I cannot do it myself. My shot blasting cabin is way to small... Next step will be to weld everything back together. So far, this is how the lip looks like (minus the chips I've cleaned up), both shells are cut in front of each other. Sheet metal thickness is 0.040" (1mm). Not sure what would be the best way of doing it: - MIG or TIG weld? - how should I setup the lips? Should I do it according to option #1 or option #2 on the following drawing? I'm wondering if I shouldn't mill some material out of one shell (the bottom side is easier since no outlets are on the way) and weld a corner instead of a "flat surface". Obviously, I need something sealed (I'll add resin inside the tank afterwards also). option #2 seems more appropriate. Extra question: since tank is wide open, I'm wondering if couldn't also add some metal sheet to create some baffles around fuel pickup. Easiest way would a be a simple flat sheet around pickup. More elegant solution would be 4 V-shape sheets to surround pickup, not sure how to make it happen on the lower shell while the pickup is on the top shell... Thanks!
