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Showing results for tags 'booster'.
Found 5 results
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Hi everyone, Got a brake question. Since getting my 1973 240z on the road and running after an intensive tear down and rebuild, all has been good except for the brakes. For some reason, with even the slight amount of pressure, the brakes grab really hard. So when I drive I have to barely feather the pedal to brake normally. When I pull the vaccum line off of the booster, the opposite happens, the brakes take a LOT of effort to decelerate normally. So I am thinking the booster may be providing too much assistance. Wondering if you guys have ever experienced something like this in your builds? Brake system "brake-down" -240z Original booster (tested and working) -Aftermarket check valve installed in vacuum line (the correct direction) -Vacuum line connected to the crossover tube on the intake manifold (SU carbs). OEM has the vacuum connection on one of the runners. -1981 280zx master cylinder 15/16" -wilwood proportioning valve (for rear brakes) with built in splitter for front brakes L and R. -toyota 4-piston front calipers with vented Z31 rotors -maxima rear disc brake conversion -All new hard lines and brake hoses. Any feedback is welcome. I will be repairing a very minor leak in one of the inverted flare hard line connections soon and can use the opportunity to try to solve this issue. Thank you! -Aaron
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Hi guys, I'm having a few issues with my brakes: is extermely hard to stop my car, the pedal feels like a rock after about an inch of travel. I have a 75 280z with Lt1 and a 503 cam, 280zx 10" booster (new), 1" wilwood MC (new), front stock disc brakes and rear drum brakes with all new hardware, and 9 inch of vacuum at the booster port.. Do you think the 9 inch of vacuum are too low or could be any other thing to check? or maybe having a 10 inch booster and 1 inch MC could be compensated installing toyota 4 pistons caliper? Thank you in advance, Selvin -
I am looking for the spacer that mounts between the brake master cylinder and the booster for a 280z. I think this piece is the same for just about all s30 vehicles. I seem to have misplaced mine and am hoping that someone has an extra laying around they don't need. Let me know if you need a picture to clarify what I'm talking about. If you have one you can part with for a reasonable amount please let me know. Thanks Alec
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So Im fairly new to this but Ive done a good deal of searching, and will continue to after this post. 72 240z, no brake mods First, I started having really tough braking combined with a hissing noise and idle speed jump. Searched and everyone says brake booster is the culprit. Prior to this issue, the brakes felt very normal ie. had progressively more pedal pressure depending on how hard you wanted to stop (like every other car). So I hunted for a reman'd 240z found one and ordered it. I got excited and put it in following instructions found online. Hopped in and took it for a slow test ride. Discovered very little brake feel until the very end of the throw then it was really grabby. Fiddled with the plunger rod and ended up having to swap tips (the old booster had a much longer tip), but still didn't solve the problem. Searched again and found that the "reaction disk" missing had very similar symptoms. The obvious solution was to grab the reaction disk from the old booster and put it on the new one. Low and behold, there's no reaction disk on the old booster..... go to check the new one and its missing too. Common? So now Im stumped because the old booster didn't have a reaction disk and brakes felt fine until the booster started leaking. Im thinking of going to the JY and trying to find a reaction disk. Any ideas on what to do now? -
I have a 76 s30 280z with the toyota 4 piston calipers installed up front and stock drums in the rear. I just installed a used 81 s130 280zx brake master cylinder and booster. Both bmc and booster were taken off a junkyard 280zx. The install was pretty easy and straight forward. Just had to take off the spacer and flip the booster and everything bolted up fine. I have bled the brakes in the proper order but there is a problem. The brakes don't work. Basically with the car off the brake pedal builds no pressure. The pedal is spongey about 3/4 of the way down and then super loose at the last 1/4 When the car is on there is absolutely no pressure or resistance or anything. The pedal just goes straight down to the floor with no effort. The brakes don't even work a little. From what I can tell there are no leaks. I read it might me be a push rod issue or brake pedal linkage? Any other suggestion on what the problem might be?
