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Showing results for tags 'frame rails'.
Found 6 results
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Orginially I was thought I could get away with repairing the frame rails. But after cutting open the frame rails, corrosion made them unrepairable. So rail replacement was necessary. After checking out the replacement floor pans and frame rails available, I decided to construct my own. Normally one can get away without bracing the body to do the replacement. But I found some corrosion on the front of driver side rocket panel. Could not determine how strong the rockers were without cutting them open. I constructed body bracing inside the car just above the floor pan. The bracing was mounted to the two lower door hinges mounts. The outer seat belt mounts were used for the other side of the body brace. 1" square steel tubing was used in a crossing pattern to provide support for the floor pan. I want to make it bolted in instead of just welding it .Construction took about two days with all the fitting that necessary. floor panel corossion pics of removed rusted areas lower door hinge mount top view of the body bracing above the floor pan close up view of door hinge mount picture of repaired crack in rear transmission tunnel frame rail rust
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So I finally got my '73 240Z back from my dads who stored it for me and into my garage. I wasn't able to do much with the car while it was at my dads since hes got his garage packed with his own stuff, so I was anxious to get it up on stands to see if there was any rust in the hard to see places. Like a lot of the 240Z's you see on craigslist for more than $400, the exterior looked great. Interior looked pretty good (there were 3 layers of carpet for some reason but the seller was older, maybe he just wanted plush carpet like he had in his house?) and there wasn't much that I could see rust wise lying on my back in the sellers driveway with a flashlight. Welp.....I shoulda brought a jack and stands (probably an angle grinder w/ wire wheel too) The close up pic is of the passenger side frame rail towards the rear. It was originally covered with undercoating but when I was tapping around it just crumbled and opened up that hole. I picked off the undercoating that gave way easily with a screwdriver, the rest seemed to be secured to sturdy metal. The pic including the tie rod is the extent of the damage on the pass side frame rail / floor pan. Looks like someone did a crummy job of replacing some previous rust spots in the floor as well. Last 2 pics are of the battery tray area which seem to have contributed the most to the rot on the rail. Drivers side frame rail is pretty clean, except for some light surface rust and a bit of denting on the floor pan. Nothing compared to pass side. My intent was to just give it a light refresh (fuel lines, suspension, bushings, etc) and drive it until there was a major problem or I got bored with ~130HP and swapped in a RB. My main question: How serious is this rust? Can I wire brush, weld in patches and POR15 it for now or is it to the point of stripping the car and getting new floor pans and frame rails welded in? I'm a newbie to the forum officially, but I have been soaking up as much information as possible over the past few years getting ready for my first project car. Any and all feedback is GREATLY appreciated.
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So after searching for a 72' 240Z for about 6 months I finally bought one in Stockton, California. It has rusty floor pans and the support rails are almost as rusty as the floor pans. First my body shop guy said to patch them up, but now we decided that it is better to replace the whole pans and rails on both sides. I've been looking everywhere but have no idea on prices or places to purchase them. EBay has them up for around $500 with shipping. I'm a newbie to the forum officially and new to dealing with rust. Any and all websites and feedback is GREATLY appreciated. -
i bought a 72' 240z and noticed the frame rails appeared to be cut just before the floor pan. i plan on swapping a sub 300hp sbc and doing some suspension work. Is this car worth swapping? the car has very little rust for a minnesota car, and ive already put in a bunch of money to get the breaks somewhat working. Should i find a more suitable platform and ditch this one? I'm having trouble posting a picture right now.
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Hi Guys, Does anyone have a phone number for Bad Dog Parts? Seems like their website is down currently. Thanks much, Adrian
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Hi all, this is my first posting on this site and I've come here in search of some help with my 280z. I bought my 1977 Datsun 280z a few months ago for $2k. I bought it not running, since I'm more of an engine guy I was able to get her started and running in about two weeks after digging through the wiring and figuring out it was a bad ECU. Through further inspection of the chassis of the car, I found some rust. I know rust is typical on Datsun's, but I have a lot of people telling me its a lost cause and the frame repair will be too costly and dangerous to attempt. I've been told to use my 280z as a parts car, and get a rust free chassis to rebuild using the engine and parts from my current car. Here's a few photos of what I'm dealing with Take a look and see what you think. I don't know what I would need to fix severe rust like this. I found front frame rails online for $450, but I'm wary about them because there's no photos. Has anyone here ever used the front frame rail kit from "The Z Store"? If so, what did you have to do to put them in? I'm still considering my options with this, I really don't want to sell the car and I really don't want to have to part it out. However I don't have access to a garage, I don't own a welder (besides a little 90 amp flux core MIG, which I know I can't use for this) and I've really never welded before but it's never too late to learn. What's your opinion?
