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Hey guys, I recently bought a 240z and it ended up having more rust than I originally thought, thus begins my new winter project. Pulling her home with my 1987 2WD Toyota Pickup. That was a long haul between northeast of Sacramento and Southern California. The truck performed well though! The car sat for a while and the engine internals have rusted. The overview plan is to pull the engine, fix the front half of the car's rust problems, swap the SUs from the L24 to my rebuilt L28, install the engine, and drive it while fixing other things (interior). Some hood damage. Hopefully I can bump these out. Starting to inspect for rust on the passenger side frame rail/firewall interface. It's definitely in need of some work. Inside engine bay rail. Engine removal In preparation for cutting into frame rails I dropped the front suspension to remove as much stressed from the rails as possible. Stand I welded up to support car from the transmission mounts. I've made a little more progress -- started making patch panel templates and cutting metal from the battery tray area. It looks like I'm going to be replacing a lot of metal around the battery tray area -- frame rail, battery tray inner fender, a piece of the firewall, and passenger side floor pan. Hopefully driver side isn't this bad.

So after searching for a 72' 240Z for about 6 months I finally bought one in Stockton, California. It has rusty floor pans and the support rails are almost as rusty as the floor pans. First my body shop guy said to patch them up, but now we decided that it is better to replace the whole pans and rails on both sides. I've been looking everywhere but have no idea on prices or places to purchase them. EBay has them up for around $500 with shipping. I'm a newbie to the forum officially and new to dealing with rust. Any and all websites and feedback is GREATLY appreciated.

Any one parting out a S130 with a decent floor? I could really use the raised section of the rear floor above the gas tank (just between the channels). Mine is shot in the corners and I really don't want to hand hammer those corner bends. I'm out in Montana for the time being and stuff is scarce, found a solid wrecked car locally but the kid thinks he's sitting on gold :/. I can find floor pans for the zx but haven't been able to find that rear pan anywhere. I have a business so you should be able to ship freight. Here's some visual aid, round section is the access panel for the sending unit, spare tire well would be to the far right just out of view. A little help would be greatly appreciated!! zip is 59802 Thanks!

Hello, while in the midst of some electrical repairs I figured while I'm at it why not redo my interior. I'm almost done cleaning/grinding all of the tar and now its time for rust repair. I've been have been debating whether to weld in patches or put in new floors all together. However, given that I want to finish this relatively quickly and that this is my first welding project,patching with 18 gauge sheet metal seems like an acceptable approach. The smaller patches are straightforward, where I need advice is with the floor pan seams and seat brackets (pictures below): 1. Both the front and rear seams are rusted out. What is the best approach to repair these areas? Can I just cut 2 or 3 inches on either side of the seam and lap weld in a single patch panel? Or do I need to do two separate repairs e.g. cut and butt weld in upper patch onto the firewall, and then cut and weld an overlapping patch that is attached to the old floor pan? 2. The seat bracket seams are rusting out, should I completely remove (or cut) the brackets out and clean up the areas underneath or can I get away with spot blasting the seams and treating with phosphoric acid?

Anyone molding floor plans with carbon fibers for 280zx?

So my floor pans fromhttp://www.thezstore.com/pathing/PROD/30-7317 Arrived and we started attempting to install them. Well everything is going well thank you for asking. Except We've met a small snag. Right below the little recessed cup thing where the seat belt retractor sits was a little rusted out and it's at a weird angle to where we don't think we can just weld some sheet metal in there. I don't have a good picture but will get one shortly today. If you guys have ever ran into this problem let me know how you surpassed it. It's the place where the driver floor pan stops and the slanted piece starts up. Only pictures I got.