Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'issue'.
Found 2 results
Hi All, I did a very not-so-smart thing and over torqued the shock nut (top nut going into the insulator) when installing my Koni Yellow shocks into the rear strut tubes. Does anybody know how to free this nut without damaging the shock? In the pictures it is clear how far down the nut is based on the number of threads showing. I believe the nut has gone so far down that it is past the normal shock threads and is "threading" into the non-threaded part of the shock. It is impossible to fit a wrench around the smaller hex end just below the adjustment knob of the shock while also using a larger wrench to loosen the shock nut due to the height of the insulator surrounding it (and yes, despite the pictures being taking when installed, I have taken the strut assembly off the car). I am tempted to use a thick mouse pad to wrap around the shock tube itself and hold it still with vice grips while I loosen the nut but I'm anxious to do so. If anyone has any recommendations or has dealt with this before I would greatly appreciate your help. Thanks, Liam
I noticed my steering wheel doesn't return to center after turning right. The wheels are aligned still, and there is no play, simply off by about 15 degrees on return. The cause is clearly the rack shifting. Any thoughts on what might be causing extra resistance on the front right wheel? (perhaps a common problem, familiar to the s30 veteran) I replaced the rack's bushings. Not only were the old bushings fine, but they didn't solve the snag. The issue started when I put my wider tires back on (they are 215, but there is no interference), clearly the extra load/resistance is adding enough difference on the failing component to causing the rack to hold slightly right (until I turn the other direction). My thought is strut bushing or bearing (my other vehicle had the same issue when I didn't replace the old strut mount but added heavy duty springs). 1975 Datsun 280z (unmodified)