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About Oblithian

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  1. SOLUTION: You were correct, the sound was the outer U-joint of the PS axle-shaft. When I pulled them it was very obvious it was bad. I replaced both of them and the sound is now gone. (The hubs also have too much play. We'll see if it's the spindle or the bearings, or if it just needs tightening). I will add the video or images here when I get around to it. Thank you all for your help. P.S. True, in some years the propshaft/driveshaft u-joints are listed as 'not replaceable' like 1975 (mine). However, they can be replaced yourself if you can track down the right p
  2. Oblithian

    Hybrid Z Wind Tunnel Test

    I watched these on YouTube a couple years ago. They were very helpful thank you!
  3. If we are all converting it to something non-stock anyway. Why don't we all try to find some alternate calipers that would work with the rotor dimensions but with a more suitable handbrake setup? Perhaps something even cheaper and more widely available? The adapter plate is custom, but it is also the simplest component to replace/modify as needed.
  4. Update: So I can't say for certain what is causing the sound, but after having inspecting all the parts for play, I can say the wheel bearing needs replacing. So... Maybe it is an early warning sound? Or maybe the bearing is fine and there's just too much play in the hub.
  5. Thanks for the suggestion, I have replacement u-joints from... several years ago (I wanted to have them handy if/when they went. The driveshaft u-joints had gone before I bought the car). If it is the shaft itself... Then I guess I have an excuse to make the 300ZX upgrade.
  6. While driving around the coast I noticed my car (1975 280z 2+2) has started making a repetitive spring-like squeaking sound that gets faster as you drive. But it only makes sound under acceleration, and only when driving forward. Also, it is less noticeable at higher speeds. However, it isn't that loud. So, it could be that it stops, or it could be that the engine and road noises drown it out. It sounds like it is coming from the PS rear-quarter? The car does not squeak when going over bumps or when I bounce the corners of it. I am on a trip at the moment so I can't examine it. Does this so
  7. Oblithian:   No need to reply to the earlier message, I found a diagram and was able to figure it out.  Really simple.  The fans now come on immediately when I turn on the AC, or once the temp. hits 185 (if I'm not using the AC).   I've attached the diagram if anyone ever needs it.


    Electric Fan to AC Connection.PDF

    1. Oblithian


      Oh good, I don't know why it didn't show me this before I replied haha.

      I am glad you got it worked out.

  8. Hi Oblithian.  I have been enjoying my 78 Z over the past couple of months but the heat here in Arizona  will probably be the death of me (and the Z) if I don’t improve my cooling fans.


    I have replaced the OEM clutch fan with a Flex-a-Lite Flex-Wave 16 inch LoBoy puller which produces approx. 3000 cfm. Additionally, I have added 2 12 inch pusher fans on the front to help and to provide more complete flow through the radiator.  I am using a Hayden 3654 (for up to 50 amps) controller with temp control switch, wiring and wattage engorging to run 4 single fans (or 2 dual speed fans) so I have plenty of juice.  The fans I bought will only use approx. 24-24 amps.  There is a wire for connecting to ignition AND a wire to connect for starting the fan when turning on the AC.  The controller is also directly connected to the battery for continual power.


    2 Questions:


    1) is there a component in the engine well that I can connect the fan controller to which would turn the fans on when I turn on the AC?


    2) Are the Z’s able to keep the fans running until the radiator temp hits the lower temp setting, even when the ignition is turned off?  (Would like it to keep cooling during the summer months even after I shut it off)


    Any help or advice would be appreciated.

  9. Thanks, yes I am aware warping is caused by overheating, that wasn't the clearest writing. It assumes the reader knows the context by that point (I will amend the prior comment to make it clearer). A thermostat that is stuck closed will cause increased pressure from the pump, amd have increased pressure from the excess heat. coolant that isn't flowing, isn't cooling, but causing rapid overheating (though slower than no coolant). As an update, I replaced the head gasket (I didn't bother measuring the deck) but the radiator is no longer losing coolant volume and is no longer leaking into cyli
  10. No I just left the stock dimmer, I thought about installing an adapter but the LEDs I went with aren't bright enough to need to be turned down (I may buy brighter ones, but they're at least bright as the stock bulbs with the green lenses). The hazard sounds like there is a short, apparently it is common to get one in the indicator sockets? So I would check them first but a short could be anywhere really... I mean, if you already need a fuseblock maybe check again after that's replaced. Best bet for a stock switch is some of the local datsun clubs, some people just have stacks of parts.
  11. So, I ran the coolant system pressure check, and there were some leaks at the hoses (but only under testing pressure). I tightened them up, and the leak moved to another hose that looks like it was replaced. I got them all and it seems to have stopped the leaking, and definitely holds pressure now... though perhaps it will find a new path out. I pulled the thermostat and it had been sticking, to my knowledge it was fairly new (the previous owner said he had just replaced it, and it was not original). I manually depressed it a few times and it seems to work now but I had already bought a new
  12. So, my car ('75 280z) had a coolant leak at the watercock. Pulled it apart, replaced the gasket, put it back in, no more dripping. But my car still loses coolant inconsistently and I have no real ideas where it may be leaking from. I get a whiff of coolant in the cabin when the heater is on, (esp under heavy load) but pulling the carpets there is no evidence of leaking (I am driving without them just incase). I can leave it parked and idling for hours with no spots on the driveway and no visible leaking. No sweet smelling exhaust, no white smoke. Judging by the coolant levels it isn't even
  13. Ok, so when I bought my car the bearings were going in the U-joints, and I had them replaced. That was a bit of a fuss but basically, take it to a shop that specializes in driveshafts don't waste your time anywhere else. They swapped them out for a 'staked-in' / '4 grooved' design within 2 days and I have been using them without issue for almost 5 years. Alternatively, RockAuto seems to stock U joints for many of the model years now... except 1975. Which is mine ('75, 2+2). So when my u-joint snapped (due to an akward situation where I had to floor it over a railway crossing to merge), I ne
  14. Thank you very much! Of course the ones the previous owner wore out would be the ones I can't swap. To answer the other question, easier yes. Cheaper no. I have two transmissions, and will be replacing the bearings and syncros come summer in the 5-speed. Unless someone who happens to be close by wants to trade me for my 4-speed, I would probably have to buy a whole 280zx to get another 5-speed. The gear ratio change intrigues me, I will mull that over.
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