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Oblithian

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About Oblithian

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  1. So to clear up some confusion. Going from a 4-speed ('75) to a 5-speed ('80) is a direct swap. However, there are a few differences to make note of that you may find. The newer transmissions do not have the neutral safety switch* (which doesn't really matter mine didn't work anyway, may install one on the clutch). The module with the flat connector pins is the safety switch, the module with the round pins is the switch for the reverse lights. One of the bottom bellhousing through bolts (for the plate) is longer on the newer 5-speed. So save that or order a new one. Shifter designs change but they are 100% compatible. Threading the original 4-speed starter bolts into the newer transmission was not as smooth as it should have been, maybe import those as well. The speedometer gear is (as mentioned various places) matched to the differential. So if you aren't changing the rear end, use the original gear. I.e. use the gear suited for the diff you have. Now what is not mentioned: Pay attention to the orientation of the speedo gear retainer. The gear (or cog) is offset so if they are different you will have to use the speedo gear housing from the new transmission. Knock out the retaining pin on each (be careful they are easy to lose), swap the gears themselves, then put the pin back in. Removing the whole speedogear from the transmission (again because of the offset) if you is easier twist it slightly to disengage the gears before pulling. There is some question as to compatability with input shaft sleeves, if any of you know please clarify? It seems to work fine with the original clutch and bearings are the same. I also have a 2+2 (though the donor 280zx may have also been, I don't recall).
  2. Or if your 5-speed was scrap and a 4-speed was all that was available. ...or someone is lazy and wants to shift less? But if you want to do it, you follow the same procedure... I would check out the gear ratios of each transmission on xenon (I think that's right).
  3. hmmm. That seems less precise than I would like... But I will give it a try, thank you for the suggestion.
  4. I am in the middle of some bodywork, but before I can re-assemble my '75 280z I need to replace the foam pieces that brace the front fenders and outer door panels. Mine had all either dissolved or were torn when the panels were removed. Does anyone know the factory thickness of the foam so I can find a suitable replacement?
  5. Both before and after I changed them? I suppose it's possible the previous owner and I made the same mistake. I also noticed the PS strut is sqeaking when it rotates unloaded... combined with the squatting, definitely time for a new set. Until then, please feel free to throw more ideas for me to try (the bracket bolts are tight by the way)
  6. I located the issue, and forgot to update the post. My apologies. So the issue was a factory mis-wiring (Apparently Morbias' had the same issue). The green and white (Gw) from the tachometer ran to the red and blue (Rl) on the dash harness. Either the dash side harness was mis-wired, or the tach. An issue one would never discover with incandescent bulbs. So whoever made the mistake, at least it was harmless for 43 years hahaha. I just undid the two pins and switched them. (Which was easier than pulling the bulbs, let alone soldering them again. I would highly recommend this solution if you ever go to replace your LEDs... 100 years from now) Problem solved. Thank you for your assistance, even if I didn't end up using it. Out of curiousity, are anyone else's tachometer connectors mis-wired? ...or is it a mixed bag, where that one guy (we'll call him Doug... Though Toshi is more likely) messed up all the ones he happened to work on, but all of the other employees did it correctly?
  7. 1975 280z, I apologize if this is obvious but it's 2 AM and I have been working all day. I just pulled my dash, and replaced all of the gauge bulbs with LEDs. I tested them all, however, upon putting everything back together... The tach's illumination doesn't work (just the tach, and just the illumination, the gauge, signals, high beams, etc. all work). I pulled it twice, tried reconnecting all of the tachometer's connections. I also tried the harness box, and the connections under the steering column. Where do you guess the issue lies? (and incase I was unclear, it was working just fine before), I am going to do electrical testing for the dash harness, and the tach. But it may be a while, before I have time again. So please throw your ideas below.
  8. I noticed my steering wheel doesn't return to center after turning right. The wheels are aligned still, and there is no play, simply off by about 15 degrees on return. The cause is clearly the rack shifting. Any thoughts on what might be causing extra resistance on the front right wheel? (perhaps a common problem, familiar to the s30 veteran) I replaced the rack's bushings. Not only were the old bushings fine, but they didn't solve the snag. The issue started when I put my wider tires back on (they are 215, but there is no interference), clearly the extra load/resistance is adding enough difference on the failing component to causing the rack to hold slightly right (until I turn the other direction). My thought is strut bushing or bearing (my other vehicle had the same issue when I didn't replace the old strut mount but added heavy duty springs). 1975 Datsun 280z (unmodified)
  9. Did you find an answer for this? I have found a lot of vague rederences to doing it but no complete write up. (As an aside, different manufacturers have different variations in their product specifications).
  10. True there are fewer and very expensive DI options (Bosch and Motec I believe have some ECUs) there are also some drawbacks to the design in general. I suppose I should modify my question to a matter of in-head injector ports rather than manifold ports (for example, a VVT Ecotec head) just to simply the manifold, and make it easier for custom fabrication. As said, it is already done, I was curious if there is any particular reason behined the selection (in that respect) or if it was just because, of the huge Honda aftermarket. Regardless, it looks great so far. I was trying to consider ways that might keep costs down on a custom head, being able to install an existing (or slightly modified) camshaft or manifold design would be significant. Again, it is almost certainly too late for that now.
  11. Given that you need custom manifolds it seems unusual that you would opt for a tower with MPI rather than DI. Either way, I am certain a few hundred people would be interested in buying this, myself included.
  12. Interesting, so the Zstore must have been referring to a system bypassing the external resistor. For their selection. Thank you, I will look for a replacement with resistance closer to those specified.
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