Jump to content
HybridZ

Oblithian

Members
  • Content Count

    37
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Oblithian

  • Rank
    Moving Up

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

1559 profile views
  1. Ok, so when I bought my car the bearings were going in the U-joints, and I had them replaced. That was a bit of a fuss but basically, take it to a shop that specializes in driveshafts don't waste your time anywhere else. They swapped them out for a 'staked-in' / '4 grooved' design within 2 days and I have been using them without issue for almost 5 years. Alternatively, RockAuto seems to stock U joints for many of the model years now... except 1975. Which is mine ('75, 2+2). So when my u-joint snapped (due to an akward situation where I had to floor it over a railway crossing to merge), I needed to get another set but didn't want to spend the same price as getting another driveshaft. So, here are the measurements I got: 0.945" (cap diameter) and 1.637" between the ears and 1.526" between the clips on the u-joint they installed prior. The closest match I found was GMB 220-7010, 0.945", 1.535" it is available on Summit Racing. But given I don't live in the US, the lead time plus the shipping cost made it undesireable (oddly walmart.com also lists them, but they are out of stock. Maybe calling in they can order them in in Canada, I didn't bother checking). The shop I went to last time ordered me one in, Part no. 430-11A Rockford But they look like the same as what's in there. Its dimensions are: ~0.947", ~2.335" overall length, ~1.697" from the outer edges of the ring landings, the center body is ~0.860" across. The biggest downside to these are the grease fitting, which is a weird dimpled design I haven't encountered before. So you will probably want to get some regular zerks. Anyway, the non-serviceable, unservicable, non-replaceable, thing is definitely not accurate. Here are some lookup sites: https://www.gmb.net/u-joint-lookup/ https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal-joints-ujoints.asp https://spicerparts.com/resources/measuring-u-joints https://neapco.mycarparts.net/show_attributes/22
  2. Thank you very much! Of course the ones the previous owner wore out would be the ones I can't swap. To answer the other question, easier yes. Cheaper no. I have two transmissions, and will be replacing the bearings and syncros come summer in the 5-speed. Unless someone who happens to be close by wants to trade me for my 4-speed, I would probably have to buy a whole 280zx to get another 5-speed. The gear ratio change intrigues me, I will mull that over.
  3. If there end up being aftermarket gear sets let me know (and maybe I can save myself some effort) This build is still in the planning stages. So I am asking now before I pull two transmissions apart. Are there any differences in shaft diameter between the gear boxes, (or other differences for that matter) which would prevent me from swapping the 1st through 3rd from a F4W71B 4-speed to a later model 5-speed? (In short, are the gears compatible?) If there is already a post on this I apologize. I could not find anything searching, and the search function kept breaking itself.
  4. So to clear up some confusion. Going from a 4-speed ('75) to a 5-speed ('80) is a direct swap. However, there are a few differences to make note of that you may find. The newer transmissions do not have the neutral safety switch* (which doesn't really matter mine didn't work anyway, may install one on the clutch). The module with the flat connector pins is the safety switch, the module with the round pins is the switch for the reverse lights. One of the bottom bellhousing through bolts (for the plate) is longer on the newer 5-speed. So save that or order a new one. Shifter designs change but they are 100% compatible. Threading the original 4-speed starter bolts into the newer transmission was not as smooth as it should have been, maybe import those as well. The speedometer gear is (as mentioned various places) matched to the differential. So if you aren't changing the rear end, use the original gear. I.e. use the gear suited for the diff you have. Now what is not mentioned: Pay attention to the orientation of the speedo gear retainer. The gear (or cog) is offset so if they are different you will have to use the speedo gear housing from the new transmission. Knock out the retaining pin on each (be careful they are easy to lose), swap the gears themselves, then put the pin back in. Removing the whole speedogear from the transmission (again because of the offset) if you is easier twist it slightly to disengage the gears before pulling. There is some question as to compatability with input shaft sleeves, if any of you know please clarify? It seems to work fine with the original clutch and bearings are the same. I also have a 2+2 (though the donor 280zx may have also been, I don't recall).
  5. Or if your 5-speed was scrap and a 4-speed was all that was available. ...or someone is lazy and wants to shift less? But if you want to do it, you follow the same procedure... I would check out the gear ratios of each transmission on xenon (I think that's right).
  6. hmmm. That seems less precise than I would like... But I will give it a try, thank you for the suggestion.
  7. I am in the middle of some bodywork, but before I can re-assemble my '75 280z I need to replace the foam pieces that brace the front fenders and outer door panels. Mine had all either dissolved or were torn when the panels were removed. Does anyone know the factory thickness of the foam so I can find a suitable replacement?
  8. Both before and after I changed them? I suppose it's possible the previous owner and I made the same mistake. I also noticed the PS strut is sqeaking when it rotates unloaded... combined with the squatting, definitely time for a new set. Until then, please feel free to throw more ideas for me to try (the bracket bolts are tight by the way)
  9. I located the issue, and forgot to update the post. My apologies. So the issue was a factory mis-wiring (Apparently Morbias' had the same issue). The green and white (Gw) from the tachometer ran to the red and blue (Rl) on the dash harness. Either the dash side harness was mis-wired, or the tach. An issue one would never discover with incandescent bulbs. So whoever made the mistake, at least it was harmless for 43 years hahaha. I just undid the two pins and switched them. (Which was easier than pulling the bulbs, let alone soldering them again. I would highly recommend this solution if you ever go to replace your LEDs... 100 years from now) Problem solved. Thank you for your assistance, even if I didn't end up using it. Out of curiousity, are anyone else's tachometer connectors mis-wired? ...or is it a mixed bag, where that one guy (we'll call him Doug... Though Toshi is more likely) messed up all the ones he happened to work on, but all of the other employees did it correctly?
  10. 1975 280z, I apologize if this is obvious but it's 2 AM and I have been working all day. I just pulled my dash, and replaced all of the gauge bulbs with LEDs. I tested them all, however, upon putting everything back together... The tach's illumination doesn't work (just the tach, and just the illumination, the gauge, signals, high beams, etc. all work). I pulled it twice, tried reconnecting all of the tachometer's connections. I also tried the harness box, and the connections under the steering column. Where do you guess the issue lies? (and incase I was unclear, it was working just fine before), I am going to do electrical testing for the dash harness, and the tach. But it may be a while, before I have time again. So please throw your ideas below.
  11. I noticed my steering wheel doesn't return to center after turning right. The wheels are aligned still, and there is no play, simply off by about 15 degrees on return. The cause is clearly the rack shifting. Any thoughts on what might be causing extra resistance on the front right wheel? (perhaps a common problem, familiar to the s30 veteran) I replaced the rack's bushings. Not only were the old bushings fine, but they didn't solve the snag. The issue started when I put my wider tires back on (they are 215, but there is no interference), clearly the extra load/resistance is adding enough difference on the failing component to causing the rack to hold slightly right (until I turn the other direction). My thought is strut bushing or bearing (my other vehicle had the same issue when I didn't replace the old strut mount but added heavy duty springs). 1975 Datsun 280z (unmodified)
  12. Did you find an answer for this? I have found a lot of vague rederences to doing it but no complete write up. (As an aside, different manufacturers have different variations in their product specifications).
×
×
  • Create New...