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I have built and installed an MS3X system on a L28 turbo motor in a 260Z. I have it running, and idles, and am getting ready to get it out of the garage and drive it. I configured the tune from scratch and it is very rough. I am looking for someone with tuning experience to look over my tune and make suggestions or changes to get a safe, basic starting tune. Below is the engine specs, and I have attached my current tune. Thanks for any assistance! F54 block, dished pistons P79 head w/E30 cam - "B" stamp ARP head studs N42 non-EGR intake 440cc injectors LSx coil-on-plug T3/T4E 50 Trim with .63 AR (best that I can determine, Craigslist deal) Intercooler - 11x17x2.5 60mm 240sx throttle body 280ZXT fuel pump & FPR MS3X running sequential DIY Auto CAS Disc in 280ZXT dist Innovate LC2 AFR 2 1/2" to 3" downpipe, 3" exhaust ?? BOV Vintage Air a/c No idle control, yet No boost control, yet No oil cooler A couple of items in particular I have questions about is that I have under basic settings, 1 squirt per cycle; I have seen other setups where this is configured for 2. I also would like to use idle timing advance for warm up, and for when the A/C is on. CurrentTune.msq
So it took me one afternoon to rip out the stock injection and get the car wired up and started on ms, it's taken me almost three months since to get things to where I'm pretty happy (one month delay thanks to the stock T3 blowing to bits). My car: 83 l28et, p90a head, stock block with at least 206k miles. Last time I tested I had low compression on #6 (110 vs. 145 on rest). My compression tester was stolen along with my truck and I haven't replaced it yet. I think I might have blown the ring back into place while letting VEAL tune the upper regions of my ve table whilst doing 3,500-5,000 rpm on the interstate in 3rd for about 20 minutes last week. It's run silky smooth since that session after the lifters quieted down (I was worried that I had done something bad until I learned that was common with hydraulic lifter setups). The non-stock stuff is: 3" K&N filter in the wheel well under the drivers side headlight, 3" piping up to turbo. same-side ebay fmic ebay type-s bov recirculated via a 1 and 3/8 line back into the intake just before the turbo. EGR is deleted and blocked off. I have had the intake and exhaust manifolds mildly ported by Lonewolf Performance. They also welded a 1/2" T3 spacer onto the exhaust manifold and a 38mm tial wastegate flange as well. I am very happy with their work. 60mm 240sx TB and TPS EM USA external wastegate set to between 15 and 18psi depending on the gear. Holset HY35 (used, fair condition) New, bigger downpipe for Holset with first O2 bung located about 1' downstream of the turbo--catback still whatever came on the car cause it's in good shape and I like the sound characteristics Ebay injectors which are supposed to be high impedance custom versions of the Bosch 403 injectors (~550cc) - so far they seem to be the real deal Palnet 14mm fuel rail Walbro 255 GM flex fuel sensor (the newer one) D585 LS truck coils (round w/ heatsink style) A set of Silverado shorty plug wires A Bosch 505 idle valve (3 wire) A homemade tach adapter Innovate MTX-L wideband and gauge Speedhut electronic fuel pressure gauge Some ebay boost gauge retrofitted in place of the stock boost gauge which is semi-accurate GM open element IAT sensor (between IC and TB) (using the CHTS as the coolant sensor for MS) DIYautotune dizzy trigger wheel DIYautotune supplied MS3/MS3X 3.57 with integrated knock sensor circuit DIYautotune MS3 and MS3X harnesses (recommended -- not a single sync problem since the first startup). I think that's most everything that's relevant to the tune. I've found the flex fuel sensor is working pretty good in tandem with MS3 and I'm able to switch to different blend ratios without it throwing the ve map off. My cold start settings are based on testing with approximately a 60% ethanol blend. There's a decent chance that at the colder temperatures they may foul plugs with pump gas. It started on the third try a little while ago with the block at 13 degrees so I'm pretty satisfied with the settings as they are (tomorrow morning at -10 should be interesting). I'll probably dyno it soon. You can see by my upper VE map that the porting work and bigger intake tract has shifted the peak torque region closer to 4,700rpm, if you've got a bone stock setup you might shift the fat area of the ve table a few hundred rpm to the left. Here are the settings I'm using. I hope these are useful for someone, lord knows I've gotten a lot farther a lot faster than I ever could have without the knowledge on this site and others.