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Showing results for tags 'performance'.
Found 4 results
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I've been doing some research on the VQ37VHR, and my main goal is to make at least 425whp on natural aspiration. Meaning, about 450-475 to the crank given some mental estimates. In my case, the wheelbase is going to be shortened around 9.1in (100.4in --> 91.3in) to an exact. Added, a lighter flywheel, lighter driveshaft, etc. With all of this unadded load-travel, for a lack of better words, put me a little closer to that number? If needed more info on what exactly I'm adding to the drivetrain to achieve this, let me know and ill update with a more thorough list. ((edit; Z31-t chassis already has a curb weight is about 3,285lbs. My main goal with the chassis as well is to shed just shy of a grand in weight. This will be achieved with the full fiberglass (carbon fiber if time and money are right) silhouette with a full roll cage going through the cab. Firewall forward, and rear struts back minus the hatch will all be chopped off and replaced by rollbars and gussets. The attempted end goal in terms of weight is going to be 2,500lbs.)) With that, I don't expect to come near this number on decreasing the travel distance of power. The second question is, with this considered, would it be possible to comfortably make this power output, without tapping into the bottom end or increasing the displacement? The modifications I have planned for the top end includes, but isnt limited to, E85 tune, Billet Fuel Rails, Upgraded injectors, High-Pressure Fuel Pump, Performance Ignition Coils, Performance upper/lower Intake manifold, Cold Air Intakes, JWT V2 Cams, Valves, Ported & Resurfaced Cylinder heads, Dry Sump Crank Pulley, Dry Sump Oil Pan* (Kinda cheating with this one). I think this number is decently achievable, but the more research I do, leads me to finding less and less 400hp N/A VQ37s, at least those without tens of thousands of dollars invested. Don't get me wrong, the estimate is close, but not just for an engine. Apart from the questions above, I guess in general, is it even feasible? Does my theory hold any ground here? Will I need to start looking into the bottom end being build to make said power output? Any help/comments/opinions would be greatly appreciated!
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hey guys, I am in the process of pulling apart all my lower control arms, steering linkage, rear diff and moustache bar.. I am running a 1JZ with 340whp, an eibach upgrade springs with kyb shocks, I need to replace all my bushings but am kind of stuck as to which way to go.... Please bear in mind I want this as a daily driver with some track days. I don't want my car to rattle, sqeak and feel its vibrating all the time yet I don't want it to be super sloppy. Has anyone done a hybrid bushing replacement? Like some rubber and some poly? I would really appreciate some feedback. -
Hi all, This is my first post on this forum. I have a 1970 240z that I am currently working. I am picking up an L28et as well as a 5 speed transmission from a 1983 280zx. I am looking to get a good amount of power out of this engine (around 450+ whp). After hours of research I have come up with the following L28et P90 head- port and polish dewebbed intake manifold JE forged flat top pistons (raise compression to 8:5:1) Injector 550cc Holset hx35 turbo Fuel rail? Depends what's out there Stand alone megasquirt ecu Differential 3.9 or 4.11 r180 3" exhaust I know I am missing a few things but I just wanted to get your guys input. I am new to these engines so please bear with me. Thanks.
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I apologize if there are millions of posts about exhaust, but if I could get some real quick opinions that would be great. I am running a built L28ET in my 78 280z and it currently has a straight 3" pipe all the way out. It has become or I have become to old for the noise level. I am looking for opinions on free flow mufflers and if I should get a resonator also. I just want to quiet her down a bit, but I do not want her to sound like a little biotch...Any help would be appreciated. I am looking at the Borla XR-1, but again I would like to know if a resonator is a good idea, especially with the turbo, even though all these components are suppose to be free flow. Attached eye candy too. Thanks, John
