rsicard Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Did you put Gapless rings on the pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Yes. Total Seal gapless rings. Actually the top ring is standard, the 2nd ring is Gapless, the third is the oil control stuff. This is their standard kit for the L28. They had the +.040" in stock. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I'm building a pretty similar setup, F54 flat-top L28 with an older head, compression ratio should be around 10:1 on mine...header, triple weber 40 dcoes, and a decent cam...difference is I intend on driving the car multiple times a week....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 I will probably drive mine all the time initially. Except it is summer here in Phoenix and no A/C. Cutting valve seats today. FSM says Exhaust .071" to .087". Seems like a big area, but will do as they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 Cut the valve seats today. Its insanely easy with the right tools. Fresh neway cutters, the right pilot, good cutting oil and a sharpie marker. Tomorrow Mike will touch-off the valve faces and clean them up. Starting to scare more parts back together every day. Fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 (edited) All valves lapped and appear seating perfectly with some minor adjustments to the seat geometry. New Fel-Pro SS72686 shorty stem seals installed and some didn't go on well - see the stem seal thread. Another batch of seals in tomorrow and will try again. Setting the depth will require a little gauge block to be made this weekend. Progressing towards mating N42 head to the F54 block for the first time this weekend. Tj Edited July 2, 2011 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) Ouch. THis is hard work. Installing the seals, valve, springs, retainers and keepers is hard work. But done. All valves are withing .003" of each other for installed height. Setting those mischievous ford stem seals is a PITA. MSA type spring and retainer kit just makes the drill that much more painful. But all went in. New Isky regrind cam rides true in the towers. Except they didn't put a plug in the end. I forgot about that until reading my engine books tonight and came across the reminder. Mounted the head on the block. But forgot to take a picture of the final product. One of the head studs started to feel funny past 50ft/lbs. I got them all to 60 and it was spinning like a top. Backed all the studs off and pulled this one expecting to find the threads gone. Happy to find the stud yanked. Remind me to get ARP head studs when I rebuild this rebuild. Started setting up cam geometry but hit the wall. Richard (L motor guru) is coming over Sunday to help me with the cam setup, wipe pattern and timing. I want a pro around for that. Beer tastes very good right now. Tj Edited July 3, 2011 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) Head mating Block porn: The plug was in the cam, false alarm on that. Thanks to **** (short for Richard~?) from Chaos for the cheater tip on setting up the last pads. Using his method it took me about 12 minutes to determine that every cylinder needs a 160 lash pad except for 2 that need a 150. Ran some wipe tests with pretty decent results I think?? Good pic of the max compression showing the coil and seal clearance. Edited July 3, 2011 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 Done! That wasn't so bad at all. I suppose there is a little left to do. Need a few more 160 lash pads. Need a cover for the old fuel pump drive. Need some plugs for the old heater hoses ports. Need studs for I/E Manifold and probably some other odds and ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 Many thanks to Richard Lowell (Chaos Racing, AZ) for introducing me to Bob Ream at Imagine Injection. Bob Ream is recurving my L24 Dizzy ($65 bucks). A true cottage shop, he makes bitchin ITB EFI systems (www.imagineinjection.com) Probably cooler than my triples Webers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Mil Thanks to Bob Ream at Imagine Injection. He took my L24 Dizzy which already had my Crane OP installed. Cleaned, lubed, recurved the centrifugal advance. Previously it was a 24 total, so 10 idle timing was 34 at full tilt. Now it is a 20 so 16 Initial is 36 total and will come in more fasterer and betterly. Zcarsource.com had a sale on aluminum 2-row radiators over the weekend for $185. Got me one of them I'd say. The problem? MSA is NLA on Lash pads. I tried to order 150 and 160s but 6 months minimum. So I ordered some 230s and I will have Mike put them on the surface grinder to size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Cleaning up loose ends and waiting for .160" lash pads which are NLA. MSA shipped me .230s which I will have ET Grind to size on Monday hopefully. Then a quicky OH on the Tranny and start the final stuff. Still have to decide on which clutch to get. Have to cut down the flywheel. Install the O2 Sensor bung and buy the WB Need motor mounts, ugg. Still some money to be spent here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 So while waiting for lash pads to get ground with an idle mind I began worrying about my Compression Ratio and ability to run Premium Pump gas. I have access to 100LL but it is different enough density that it requires a full re-tune of the Webers and that is just a PITA. Reading dozens of different posts that 10.19 compression ratio might be too high, but few discuss Dynamic Compression Ratio and so I began poking around on this and found lots of good data. Dozens of engine Static Compression Ratio (SCR) and Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) Calculators on the net. This one is simple and seems to correspond with others well so I hope it is accurate: http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp Using all my data I am getting: SCR: 10.19 DCR: 7.866 based on the cam specs from Isky. DCR is always lower than SCR. A stock cam would have a DCR of 8.868 Some posts say 7.5 to 8. on DCR is suitable for premium pump gas. I am new to all this stuff so please enlighten me if I am missing anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 I probably should have done an L6 build log somewhere other than Hybridz as there ain't much hybrid about it. Motor is done, adjusted ready to install. Spent yesterday and today overhauling the Fs5w71B with new syncros, bearings and seals. Spent another day today wrapping headers and applying heat shield to the new heat shields and trying to keep the temps away. That L6 is a pretty crappy design with the headers licking the intake runners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akeboshi Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I know what Quagmire would say... giggity overload Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 210+ PSI on all 6 cylinders. Thanks Total Seal.. Running. Working to get the carbs dialed back in. Voltage Regulator took a dump.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Overdue for an update. Motor is great. Pulls to 7500 and generally happy. These plugs below were fresh about 10 miles ago. Hammered the motor pretty good then pulled them and shot these pics. These are NGK B8ES which I manually gapped (lovingly) to .041". I am encouraged that there is no metal spray that I can see. Running a mix of 50/50 100LL Avgas and 91 pump gas. Pretty fat per the Wideband with a mid-11 idle and a low 12 AFR and below at WOT. I swear that my Wideband reads a bit low numerically. Maybe the lead is getting to it...? What happens when the lead in the 100LL finally ruins the sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 I assumed since I started this project and built this (my first) motor that the day would come.. to pull it back out. The case for extraction and fixing some things is growing: 1) Front pulley replacement issue (I don't want to talk about this). 2) Front timing cover leak by the head (my over anxious parts cleaning) 3) Isky L490 cam is too tame.. Need mega-cam and put my tower shims to use. 4) Nagging concern about some loose fasteners makes me wonder what the flywheel bolt torque is now. 5) 18lb shaved flywheel too tame.. Need the ArizonaZcar 12pounder. 6) Missed shift caused some tranny rattle that may or may not get better (Burrs on gears or broke). 7) Rear tranny seal got nicked when i put the driveshaft in. Probably a good time to do prepare for my R200 install and some other upgrades. :/ Pics to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartsel Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 i like that green. man you sure did alot of head work. i noticed you said something about the lashpads were shot. whats that look like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 With the different cam you need different lash pads. One motor I pulled apart (to scrounge the tower shims and MSA Springs) had aftermarket lashpads. 2 other motors I pulled apart (to cherrypick various parts) had stock lashpads. Once I got the new cam installed and determined the wipe pattern and new lash pads required, I discovered they were NLA / Backordered to infinity. Ended up buying whatever they had and had them ground down to my spec. I may not have looked in all the right places to find new ones available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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