cheesepocket Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 OK, I did my homework and thought things would go more smoothly with the clutch. I have a stock 1998 LS1/T56 combo. The hardware is all new and as follows: Tilton 7/8" master, gravity bled Factory GM slave Factory GM LS7 clutch kit with LS2 flywheel, sold as a package by Scoggin Dickey Braided teflon lined Earl's line from master to slave Braided teflon lined Earl's line adapted to bleeder outlet to allow for remote bleeding The clutch will not fully release, no matter what I've done. The only way to get the trans in gear is to start the engine in gear, or get it rolling and match the revs to slip into gear. The clutch does partially release, as once I'm moving in gear with the clutch pedal fully depressed I can stop the car with the brakes without killing the engine. I know advice 101 is bleed, bleed, bleed which I have done. I've used the all the std methods to push fluid through via the pedal, I've tried pulling a vacuum on the reservoir and reverse bleeding, pressurizing the reservoir to force fluid out the bleeder, using a Mityvac to pull fluid out the bleeder, tapped the slave with an extension to release trapped bubbles, etc. I'm not getting anything but a few small air bubbles, like tiny, not enough to cause this I would think. The pedal has good firmness like it's releasing the clutch, but it isn't acting like it. I wonder if the Chevy dealers have a specific tool for effectively bleeding, but more people would have problems if it were that finicky. It acts like the pressure plate has a couple bad fingers and is not fully releasing, or maybe a bent clutch disk, or maybe the trans main shaft is hanging up in the pilot bearing, who knows. The trans and engine were originally together in the Trans Am they came out of, so I doubt mialignment is the issue. I wish I'd made this all work out of the car, and am wondering if I have to pull all of this back out. I've done all the online searches here and at LS1TECH.COM. Anyone have any advice here? It's the last thing keeping me from driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kj280z Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 OK, I did my homework and thought things would go more smoothly with the clutch. I have a stock 1998 LS1/T56 combo. The hardware is all new and as follows: Tilton 7/8" master, gravity bled Factory GM slave Factory GM LS7 clutch kit with LS2 flywheel, sold as a package by Scoggin Dickey Braided teflon lined Earl's line from master to slave Braided teflon lined Earl's line adapted to bleeder outlet to allow for remote bleeding The clutch will not fully release, no matter what I've done. The only way to get the trans in gear is to start the engine in gear, or get it rolling and match the revs to slip into gear. The clutch does partially release, as once I'm moving in gear with the clutch pedal fully depressed I can stop the car with the brakes without killing the engine. I know advice 101 is bleed, bleed, bleed which I have done. I've used the all the std methods to push fluid through via the pedal, I've tried pulling a vacuum on the reservoir and reverse bleeding, pressurizing the reservoir to force fluid out the bleeder, using a Mityvac to pull fluid out the bleeder, tapped the slave with an extension to release trapped bubbles, etc. I'm not getting anything but a few small air bubbles, like tiny, not enough to cause this I would think. The pedal has good firmness like it's releasing the clutch, but it isn't acting like it. I wonder if the Chevy dealers have a specific tool for effectively bleeding, but more people would have problems if it were that finicky. It acts like the pressure plate has a couple bad fingers and is not fully releasing, or maybe a bent clutch disk, or maybe the trans main shaft is hanging up in the pilot bearing, who knows. The trans and engine were originally together in the Trans Am they came out of, so I doubt mialignment is the issue. I wish I'd made this all work out of the car, and am wondering if I have to pull all of this back out. I've done all the online searches here and at LS1TECH.COM. Anyone have any advice here? It's the last thing keeping me from driving. Have you tried adjusting the rod on the Clutch master cylinder so it has more throw? I know there's some risk in blowing out the seal in your slave but might be worth a try... I'm using a Wilwood Clutch Master cylinder with a resurfaced stock flywheel and clutch masters clutch and it works perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I've been reading up on clutch info and have heard that the LS7 clutch has some clutch disk wear adjusters. I've read that others had your issue and the fix was to use a press to put pressure on the fingers of the pressure plate and then adjust the adjusters with a screw driver. Apparently they are there to self adjust the clutch to keep the enagagement at the same pedal location throughout the disk wear....Just another idea I thought I'd throw out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I've been reading up on clutch info and have heard that the LS7 clutch has some clutch disk wear adjusters. I've read that others had your issue and the fix was to use a press to put pressure on the fingers of the pressure plate and then adjust the adjusters with a screw driver. Apparently they are there to self adjust the clutch to keep the enagagement at the same pedal location throughout the disk wear....Just another idea I thought I'd throw out there. You are correct sir. I have a LS7 Z06 and as soon as my clutch wears down some I'm getting rid of it for a Textralia. The LS7 Clutch is a real piece of junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesepocket Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 Thanks for the advice. I had another set of eyeballs on this last night, and we nailed the problem. The problem all along was not enough fluid volume. So extending the clutch arm so that the full stroke of the 7/8 Tilton was used, and actually bottoming out, and that helped release the clutch a little more. But it still wasn't fully releasing. So I had a 15/16" Tilton that I had tried last winter with no luck and we gave that another try. After several bleeding steps and lots of pedal pumping, it releases perfectly in the middle of the pedal stroke. I'll live with the LS7 clutch as long as it works reasonably well. Surely there's a ton of Z06's running around out there with no problems, hope it's OK. So the moral of the story is, even though tons of retrofit guys use a 7/8", mine needed a 15/16" and I guess I'm not going to worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.