madkaw Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 It was not the option I wanted to attempt, but I was looking for a quick cheap option to reduce tire rub on the rear tires inside the wheel well. Running 245's on a 8.5x17 with +4 offset put me on the raggged edge of clearing. In hard cornering and bottoming out the tires rubbed pretty badly---after almost eliminating the fender lip. When i realized it was no longer the fender lip, but rather the inside of the wheel well I knoew I had to tilt the top of the tire in. I couldn't find much info on this searching as far as what camber change i could expect from doing this. So I needed a alignmemnt anyway so why not slot the strut holes a bit and see what the numbers look like. I only slotted about a 1/4" to 3/8" out of the holes and it actually made a significant change in the rubbing. When had it checked out at the alignment shop I found out that I was only running 3/4 degree of negative camber That leaves pleanty of room for some more tweeking and hopefully eliminating the RUB and improving handling at the same time!!! I also found out that my adjustable rear control arm/diff brace worked great too. When I saw the tech back the car into the alignmemnt spot I was expecting him to come out and ask me about my set-up---if there was changes to be made. Instead he pulled the car around and said your all done! I asked how the rear alignmemnt was and he told me the driver's rear toe was out 3/4 of a degree, but he adjusted it to 0. He then said that my adjustable bar worked out great. Thanks Jon Morteson for the idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erehemantresni Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 So gonna tell us how to recreate the rear bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meph Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 how does that rear bar work? Can you give us some info on it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Here is a few more pics showing all the work-- which kind of tells the story. Welded and reinforced the diff brackets. Welded a stud on to the control arm pivot bolts. Slotted the holes on the diff brackets to allow for side to side movement. Attached control arms with adjustable rod ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Terry Oxandale and Jeromio had something to do with that too! Glad someone else got some use out of that idea, and those uprights look really familiar. I kinda like your welded bolts to space the turnbuckle back to clear the finned cover too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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