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4.6L Ford DOHC modular motor in my 240z


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After years of collecting motors and transmissions I have finally committed ~12 hours into putting a 4.6L Ford Modular Motor with a Tremec 3650 5 speed. I have figured out everything but the steering rod. I decided to cut out the spare and run dual exhaust with a fuel cell or a 280zx tank and the Ford FI pump. I am building a DOHC 5.4L twin turbo which is probably a bit too much and it would take up the 3" of clearance I now have from the top of the motor to the hood. So I am sending out my whole suspension out for powder coating. The motor sits from the strut towers to the fire wall and the engine is the all aluminum one that is 450 lbs. I can't wait to drive her.

 

P.S. the other mods I am doing now or have done. I have:

 

a R200 LSD

 

sectioned struts 1" of added travel and 1" of lowering the perches

 

Brakes on the front are Z32

 

full bushing kit

 

a pair of Modern Motor 300zx turbo to 280z adapter

 

a set of phantom gauges

 

a pair of second generation MR2 seats

 

280zxt gas tank with the ford pump and I had a billet gas filler adapter that fits the gas pipe

 

I used the 4.6L radiator and electric fan

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I am working on a similar project. It looks like you have an engine from a mercury maurader? I know the early 4v mustangs had an intake that looks like a dome. As for it being a tight fit...actually when I pulled my engine from a Lincoln mark 8 at the junk yard the space between the strut/suspension towers and valve covers is the same as it is in my 260z ( which is tight)...maybe an inch and a half.

I'm not trying to put in turbos. I will start a project post when I've made more progress. Would love to hear how you solve some of the issues.

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WOW that looks like a tight fit!!! If that motor fits, then that means the Supercharged motor out of the 03 - 04 cobra will fit too, right? Looks good!

 

I don't know how tall the supercharger is but I have at least 3" thill it hits the hood, I have 1 1/2 to 2" on the crossmember to oil pan and I have 1 1/2 to 2" on each side. I think it would be easier to turbocharge it.

 

PS as soon as I get it running and on the road I will paint the car and dress up the motor.

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I am working on a similar project. It looks like you have an engine from a mercury maurader? I know the early 4v mustangs had an intake that looks like a dome. As for it being a tight fit...actually when I pulled my engine from a Lincoln mark 8 at the junk yard the space between the strut/suspension towers and valve covers is the same as it is in my 260z ( which is tight)...maybe an inch and a half.

I'm not trying to put in turbos. I will start a project post when I've made more progress. Would love to hear how you solve some of the issues.

 

 

I thought mine was a "c" head motor but it's a 98' Mark VIII LSX (or something like that) and super low miles looks new inside. I have a pair of "C" head motors that are apart and am balancing a 5.4 DOHC with twin turbos...Too many parts. I am looking into modifing the header on the drivers side and an extra knuckle in the steering.

Edited by notheredave
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I thought mine was a "c" head motor but it's a 98' Mark VIII LSX (or something like that) and super low miles looks new inside. I have a pair of "C" head motors that are apart and am balancing a 5.4 DOHC with twin turbos...Too many parts. I am looking into a hydra boost steering or modify the header on the drivers side and an extra knuckle in the steering.

 

 

the DOHC is a much better choice in my opinion.

 

The mounts and bolt in mount recievers (Ford expedition), Intake manifolds ("B" heads...98 intake), exhaust mainifolds (most Mark VIII's have stainless steel exhaust manifolds (2) LEFT PASSENGER SIDE) and oil pans are important (ANY BUT MARK VIII).

 

I am building a website for a friend (which will be drdohc.com) his email address is: "Marvin Reeder" <fullonfab@cox.net> and phone number is: 702-285-7177 (Marvin). He specializes in "B" motors and some "C" motors stuff...Mostly Carburetor, ignitions, and intake systems. real nice guy likes to talk.

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Wow, I have no idea how you have so much hood room. I have a stock 78 with the 2 cam engine in it, and it's TIGHT up top (.5"-.75"). However, I also had no problems clearing steering, so maybe the heads/intake/exhaust are more different than I originally thought. Glad to see a 4V getting put together.

 

What are you planning on doing about fuel/ignition control? Are you going to use the stock ECU, wiring harness?

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Wow, I have no idea how you have so much hood room. I have a stock 78 with the 2 cam engine in it, and it's TIGHT up top (.5"-.75"). However, I also had no problems clearing steering, so maybe the heads/intake/exhaust are more different than I originally thought. Glad to see a 4V getting put together.

 

What are you planning on doing about fuel/ignition control? Are you going to use the stock ECU, wiring harness?

 

I played with the engine and transmission attached...I cut out the transmount in the tunnel, relocated the control box for the IRC's, cut of the stock Z motor mount perches. I have the oil pan and the bottom of the bellhousing is about the same height...which is lower than the crossmember (makes me nervous) I am also thinking of switching the 98' LSC Mark VIII intake for the 98' lincoln continental intake which is similar to the earlier Mark VIII with the throttle body in the rear (better to route the intake) or I will modify the battery area and the cabin pressure ducting with a kinda cold air intake???

 

fuel/ignition control will be an original ECM and harness but after I dial everything in...I will have it repogrammed (tuned).

Edited by notheredave
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FYI of course, make sure you get PATS turned off by who ever is doing the tuning. (Rear O2's and EGR are simple on/off settings too, if you want.)

 

I was also worried about the bellhousing and oil pan being lower than the Z crossmember, so I used the mustang crossmember for my motor mounts, hopefully it'll work as a skid plate if I need it.

 

DSC09350.jpg

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FYI of course, make sure you get PATS turned off by who ever is doing the tuning. (Rear O2's and EGR are simple on/off settings too, if you want.)

 

I was also worried about the bellhousing and oil pan being lower than the Z crossmember, so I used the mustang crossmember for my motor mounts, hopefully it'll work as a skid plate if I need it.

 

DSC09350.jpg

 

 

I had read your thread and had planned on reprogramming (deletes). Thanks

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I tried to install a 1998 Lincoln continental manifold for a easier intake setup but it sits too far back (which would force my engine from 4" on) So the best setup I guess is the 1998 LSC Lincoln Mark VIII. I will be looking into modifying the battery location for the air intake.

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I tried to install a 1998 Lincoln continental manifold for a easier intake setup but it sits too far back (which would force my engine from 4" on) So the best setup I guess is the 1998 LSC Lincoln Mark VIII. I will be looking into modifying the battery location for the air intake.

A 1996-98 Mustang Cobra intake will work (pretty sure) but they are pricey on Ebay. If you can find one.

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A 1996-98 Mustang Cobra intake will work (pretty sure) but they are pricey on Ebay. If you can find one.

 

Yes it will work and they are expensive. If you run "C" heads there are more options, but the price is much more and for a small benefit...because the "B" heads flow better But the mid HP is better on the "C"'s.

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So..just based off your pictures, is that the entire airbox, in the battery box, then pull in your air from your wheel well?

 

I haven't cut the circle out yet BUT the idea is the cold air vent for the car runs right through there but might partially cut into the wheelwell BUT that's not a problem...I will weld a piece to make the differance. I have also put (3) more pieces to the puzzle:

 

1. a 4" (diameter) X 4" (long) X 1/8th" (wall thickness) piece of aluminum pipe

 

2. a 4" (diameter) silicon coupler pipe hose

 

3. half (rubber part) of a intake to throttle body intake pipe...from a 1993–1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (see picture with red square)

 

I also picked up some angle iron and the motor mount recievers and bolts from a 1997 and up Ford Expedition.

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So..just based off your pictures, is that the entire airbox, in the battery box, then pull in your air from your wheel well?

 

I checked it out today and yellowoctupus you are right the air cleaner does open up to the back part of the wheelwell / fender...So my plan now I will rivet a piece of sheet metal between the fender and the wheelwell...and it's not in the area of the wheel/tire. I will post pictues soon.

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Have you decided where you're going to put your battery? I'm eying up the battery box myself for my intake, but don't want the battery in the back of the passenger compartment if at all possible. I highly doubt I'll find room, but it would be great to be able to put it back by the gas tank or something....

Edited by yellowoctupus
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I planned on putting it in the back...Somewhere I am going to use a fuel cell or a 280zx tank or a rx7 tank so that I can cut out the spare and do a dual exhaust. I was hoping to put a battery between the tank and the y in the ehaust...see picture.

 

see at link below:

 

http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Exhaust_System.htm

 

I also have a billet gas filler pipe flange I had on my 240z turbo with the same setup...you have to weld up the door and cut a circle for the flange and the gas filler bolts to the back...Similar in looks to a aviation filler.

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Edited by notheredave
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Yeah, Brian's pictures are a great reference. I think on mine (2->1 exhaust, muffler in stock location) there's room to make a battery box that mounts to the moustache bar/ rear diff holder bolts and to the bottom of the spare tire well (also stock gas tank). I'm hoping to finish up my exhaust this week, I'll post pictures if I get my battery mounted up thereabouts.

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