Z Greek Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 I am building a 3.1 stroker engine for my 74 260. I have read every article I can find, and read countless posts on this site. My question is about flywheels. Many of the builds I have read about use a lightened flywheel. Some even go on to say that a lightened flywheel is important for harmonic damper longevity. (?) Purpose of my build is purely a street car. I have spent 30 years working on, and restoring Datsun Roadsters, this is my first Z project. I have gathered most of the parts for the engine, but need to make a decision on a flywheel. My inclination is to go with a stock flywheel. Part of the draw for building the stroker was torque and ease of driving, so unless someone gives me a good reason, I'd rather not go with a lightened flywheel. Although I have to admit, even though I am pushing 50, I am still a bit of a speed freak, and that entered into the 3.1 decision also! Thanks in advance for any input. Andy K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PalmettoZ Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Hey Andy- I had a lighter Aluminum flywheel on my 3.1L and liked it. It gives the motor the feeling that it has more torque since it allows it to spin up faster. Off the line is a little more touchy, since the inertia is gone from the heavier stock flywheel. I had triple Mikuni's and a long duration cam so that probably added to that touchy feeling as well. Once I got used to it I could drive it without any problems. I found my aluminum one used and in good shape for 200.00 bucks on Ebay, it was a centerforce. All in all it was worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Great upgrade, worth every penny. There really is no downside, I doubt you'll have trouble on take-offs with that torquey engine. Don't put that heavy stocker on the back of your stroker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Great upgrade, worth every penny. There really is no downside, I doubt you'll have trouble on take-offs with that torquey engine. Don't put that heavy stocker on the back of your stroker! Agreed I have an aluminum LWF on my turbo sroker and love it. Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 The Arizona Z forged flywheel and clutch kit is an excellent setup. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 Thanks for the input guys. I am really excited to get this thing on the road. Does anyone know where I might possibly rent a torque plate for boring and honing my block? I would be willing to pay a fair rental, shipping, and of course a deposit for the full value of the plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the input guys. I am really excited to get this thing on the road. Does anyone know where I might possibly rent a torque plate for boring and honing my block? I would be willing to pay a fair rental, shipping, and of course a deposit for the full value of the plate. I think you might have sent me an email. My machinist was making one in his spare time. Not sure if he finished it. I will check. I also have a couple other sources. Let me check. Edit: just checked. He's not finished with it. Try McKinney motorsports, they have an RB26 torque plate. It will work fine on an L6 (used it on my race motor build). Pete Edited July 28, 2011 by z-ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 So the lightened fly wheel is a good idea. How about taking material off the crank to make it lighter? or that just over the top. (I am also asking from a hot streeter point of view) Leon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 So the lightened fly wheel is a good idea. How about taking material off the crank to make it lighter? or that just over the top. (I am also asking from a hot streeter point of view) Leon Lightening the flywheel, damper, crank too much will make it undrivable on the street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Yes, do the light flywheel. I have one in my turbo Z and my weber Z. Great in both cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Thanks for all the input guys. I am still searching for someone to rent me a torque plate to use while machining the bores in my block. Pete: I sent an email to McKinney a week ago, no reply, and then tried calling the number on their website, not a working number. I also spoke with Dave Rebello, he says he bored to 89mm for years without a torque plate, but uses them every time now, and highly recommends using one. He is not interested in renting one of his torque plates. Great guy, though, I used a camshaft from him in my U20 for my roadster, and I could not be happier. Any other ideas? I am about to throw in the towel, and have the block bored, and honed without a torque plate. Andy K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Andy, Get your shop that's doing the boring to make you one, you can always sell afterwards. George (Yia tin Ellada re yamoto) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Just did this. I wanted a 240mm flywheel and the Arizona Zcar 12lb steel unit wasn't in my budget. So I bought a new 240mm flywheel and had my machine shop shave it down to about 18lbs. I did buy the Arizona Z-car pressure plate and organic clutch. Mostly because he lives near me and I just drove over and picked it up. The revs are amazingly snappy. But it does require some re-training on driving to keep power in the driveline when starting off. Daves entire setup is pretty sweet with LFW, PP and Clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjracin240 Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Working in a ship yard with a real cool as in huge plasma cutter that can I have been told cut a knats behind out of a piece of 3" thick steel. Thinking a boring plate would be a good project for the guys to do in trade for something next time they had some scrap. With that being said any one got some dimensions pictures drawings of a boring plate that I can use. Of course it would be available for sharing with a reasonable deposit to insure it comes home! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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