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Accesories killing my voltage.


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Time for a little update. When looking at the wires connected to the alternator I noticed that one of the terminals had been soldered to a blue wire that is crimped to a white/red strip wire. (i believe its a #10) The soldering was only holding on to a single strand of the wire. Here are a few pictures, im looking to find out what each wire does, if this is the weak link and how can i clean it all up.

 

Here are the 3 wires that connect to the alternator.

6193796696_3159c34586.jpg

DSC_0004 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr

 

Notice the blue wire that is crimped to the red/white, that is the wire that was soldered to this terminal:

 

6193280295_ffeeed930b.jpg

1317153368437 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr

 

What kind of terminal is this? And is it necessary to reuse a similar one?

Edited by Git-y-up
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... Here are a few pictures, im looking to find out what each wire does, if this is the weak link and how can i clean it all up.

 

Here are the 3 wires that connect to the alternator.

6193796696_3159c34586.jpg

DSC_0004 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr

 

Notice the blue wire that is crimped to the red/white, that is the wire that was soldered to this terminal:

 

6193280295_ffeeed930b.jpg

1317153368437 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr

 

What kind of terminal is this? And is it necessary to reuse a similar one?

 

The large white wire with the black rubber cover is the main output wire. It is the wire that carries power to the car and battery.

 

The large black wire with the ring terminal is the ground. This wire also carries power. It is the "return" path and must handle the same power as the large white wire.

 

The small white/red wire connects to the RF suppressor (the part you called a terminal) via the blue wire. The RF suppressor is not absolutely essential and the car will work just fine without it. Do not try to repair it. Buy a new one from the part store.

 

The white 2-pin connecector has a wire from the ignition switch and a wire going to the warning light on the dash. The mating pins on the alternator are labeled "F" and "N". The F terminal should connect to the ignition. The N terminal connects to the warning light.

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The large white wire with the black rubber cover is the main output wire. It is the wire that carries power to the car and battery.

 

The large black wire with the ring terminal is the ground. This wire also carries power. It is the "return" path and must handle the same power as the large white wire.

 

The small white/red wire connects to the RF suppressor (the part you called a terminal) via the blue wire. The RF suppressor is not absolutely essential and the car will work just fine without it. Do not try to repair it. Buy a new one from the part store.

 

The white 2-pin connecector has a wire from the ignition switch and a wire going to the warning light on the dash. The mating pins on the alternator are labeled "F" and "N". The F terminal should connect to the ignition. The N terminal connects to the warning light.

 

I have a 75 280, does the ammeter have a charging light? Is the charging light what you mean by warning light?

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I have a 75 280, does the ammeter have a charging light? Is the charging light what you mean by warning light?

 

 

What is the RF surpressors main function? What makes it not necessary?

 

 

Yes, by "warning light" I mean a light on the instrument panel that lights up to indicate a malfunction in the charging system. Your 75 does not have a charge warning light. With this in mind there should be no need to make a connection to the "N" terminal on the alternator.

 

The primary purpose of the RF suppressor is to minimize interference with the radio in your car. If you do not have a radio it is not really necessary. They are not expensive. If you have a radio, or you just feel the need, replace it.

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Its interesting that I have no charge light but the N terminal has a wire. Ill have to trace it. Where does the white main feed go from the alternator?

 

Keep in mind that your car originally had a different alternator and an external regulator. The original system used the "N" wire. Your wiring has been modified to accomodate the Hitachi alternator so the "N" wire might not be connected to anything.

 

I don't know exactly where the white wire goes. The service manual indicates it goes to the ingition switch.

 

You should get a copy of the factory service manual. It is available here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you Tony D and others for you patient help with your post and links. I have solved my woes regarding my charging problems. Quite a simple fix really. Ends up the charge wire's crimped on o-ring connector had failed and was therefore arcing. I am greatful i did not try to drive this car with this problem because the fuel regulator is so close to the alternator and was leaking slightly. Now i have no fuel leek and a working alternator. All is well :)

 

One piece of knowledge I have acquired that I would just like to clear up. The internal regulator of the Alternator need both the F and N terminals connected to work. The F is power and the N is from the light but starts at the ignition, the light just provides resistance and lowers the 12v from the ignition. With out the charge light, you need an inline resistor.

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