HowlerMonkey Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 (edited) I really like this one I got from "the parts bin" as many aftermarket thermostats have a much smaller opening. This aftermarket thermostat is closest to factory that I have seen. http://www.thepartsbin.com/ It is a NTK thermostat and they are available in 3 temperatures. The wahler thermostat also features a larger diameter passage. Edited September 21, 2011 by HowlerMonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 (edited) At idle on a cold day in SoCal I can not get the engine to 160F when idling. It will sit between 140-152^F measured at the CHT at the back of the head, and about 10^F lower at the thermostat. I have to drive it to get enough load on the engine to satisfy the 160F - 170F lower thermostatic control range. All stock cooling system, with clutch fan, and shroud in a 260Z. On a hot day, this is not an issue. If you are running appreciably hotter than 185, the chances for boiling in the back of the engine (head) are greater. Run a 16# radiator cap at least, and don't loop the heater hose if you're bypassing the core! If you're 220^F out the thermostat housing, you're over 230^F at the back of the head---way too hot. Edited October 9, 2011 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
necrotosin Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 At idle on a cold day in SoCal I can not get the engine to 160F when idling. It will sit between 140-152^F measured at the CHT at the back of the head, and about 10^F lower at the thermostat. I have to drive it to get enough load on the engine to satisfy the 160F - 170F lower thermostatic control range. All stock cooling system, with clutch fan, and shroud in a 260Z. On a hot day, this is not an issue. If you are running appreciably hotter than 185, the chances for boiling in the back of the engine (head) are greater. Run a 16# radiator cap at least, and don't loop the heater hose if you're bypassing the core! If you're 220^F out the thermostat housing, you're over 230^F at the back of the head---way too hot. When I got the car the heater hose had already been looped, so this could be the problem? If the previous owner looped it couldnt that imply that the heater core was leaking? Are they hard to remove and repair/replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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