Zmanco Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 I'm getting ready to install the MSA Victory Spoiler and am considering if I should put some weather strip between it and the rear deck lid. The bottom of the spoiler is nicely finished, but I'm sure it won't exactly fit the surface of the rear deck and so am thinking that a 3/16" foam weather strip would fill the inevitable gaps. A trip to Lowes and Home Depot resulted in a 3/16" x 1" foam weather strip with adhesive on one side which seems ok. I think I'd prefer rubber which won't hold moisture but can't find anything local that thin. I am planning on using locktite on the bolts and tightening enough to compress the weather strip most but not all the way. My concern is that this might leave the spoiler free to move which can't be good over time. How have others done this? I expect that the paint under the spoiler is going to be damaged anyway, but don't think that matters as there will be 2 holes if I remove it, hence time to replace the deck. Or am I making this too hard? Should I just bolt the spoiler to the deck and call it a day? One more question: What's the best way to remove the 240Z and Datsun plastic emblems on the right corner of the deck? Prying with a screw driver seems likely to damage them and the deck. I've heard people refer to thin plastic tools for this, but have never seen one in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Why not just bolt it down and squeeze some black silicone in the crack if there is any? You're probably looking for sealant scrapers. Plastic spatulas with a knife edge generally used for removing silicone gaskets etc. without marring soft surfaces like aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Yup, bolt it down and use silicone around the edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone_Star Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I have the the same spoiler mounting issue, but another question also - the contour of the underside of the spoiler does not match the hatch; the spoiler is a flatter contour. Do I just bolt it down, seal the edge, and move on, or should I shape it working from the center out to match the hatch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I have the the same spoiler mounting issue, but another question also - the contour of the underside of the spoiler does not match the hatch; the spoiler is a flatter contour. Do I just bolt it down, seal the edge, and move on, or should I shape it working from the center out to match the hatch? You can't shape a composite part, unless you mean you plan on a lot of sanding and filling. How much of a gap is there at the edges? If we're talking very slight misshape then it will probably flex enough to conform to the hatch when you install it, but too much flex could be a disaster. On the other hand if you install it and it's just floating there it will look plain silly. Be careful trying to force it though, the sheet metal in that area is pretty flimsy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyhog22056 Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 There is a adhesive sealer product out there called E6000 or E3000 it is a silicone like sealer and adhesive that sets in a few hours and is completely paintable. It does come in black, white, clear 6 oz to 30 oz tubes, best thing is that it has a high tensile strength and stays flexible in different weather. Where it shows get it smoothed out right the first time cuz you cant go back and smooth it out. We use it all the time for fiberglass to metal, carbon fiber to fiberglass and metal and metal to metal. As for your emblems the easiest and safest way to remove them is to use dental floss get it started in between and use it with a sawing motion to remove without scratching anything or ruining the emblem, if yours have the small pegs on the back just work around them and they will come off then remove all the old adhesive with wd-40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Thanks for the tip on the dental floss, I never thought of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driven5 Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 A hair dryer can also often help soften the adhesive to help the floss cut through slightly easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Daniel, You can use garage door weather stripping to go under the spoiler to protect the paint. Obviously cut to size. People also use it for going under ZG flairs. Home Depot sells it. MD Building Products 2-5/8 in. x 18 ft. Vinyl Replacement for Garage Door Bottom $15.72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.