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Looking to buy 240z or 280z; What to look for?


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EDIT:

 

Actually, was wondering, are there any numbers laying around about how much a 280Z will lose with an easy/basic strip? I mean gut the interior, dorrcards off, sound deadening removed, AC and lines removed, wires and any speakers (if the car has them) etc.?

 

I've searched and found a few 'what to remove' threads and posts, but haven't found any solid numbers. Such as ' I started out with 2788lbs. 280z in stock trim, half a tank of gas. Removed X,Y,Z and now it weighs 2574lbs.'

 

I'm sure there are 30 different variables here. Let's just assume the wheels and tires stay the same, suspension is the same, it's just taking off the non-essentials and losing as much weight as possible without actually replacing anything, just removing items but leave the car in running shape.

Edited by Cabanaboy
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Oh hehe :rolleyes: silly me I didn't catch the google image search part the first time.

 

I know I've seen weight numbers around here somewhere, but really the weight isn't going to make so much difference till you know what you're doing with the car. There's a lot of places you can save weight, like going with AZCAR aluminum suspension parts. But you're going to add weight when you add in your roll cage. Swapping the engine out is going to make a difference too, the stock L28 weighs like 800 lbs. The SR20 is a lot closer to half that. (my VQ is just under 600Lbs) I don't know the #'s exactly, but my point is that when you're modding the car, making it what you want, you're going to be adding and subtracting weight. We all know it's possible to drop a lot of weight, but unless you're doing very competitive track courses, +/- 100 lbs isn't going me make as much difference as well tuned suspension and nice tires will. If you're going to drive it to meets and weekends, you'll want to keep some of the accoutriments that make it practical, like headlights and a passenger seat.

 

As I said before, get a good plan. Don't worry too much on what other people have done. Learn from it sure, but this will be your car and yours to customize and make your own.

 

Also, Viewing that Craigslist ad, I'd say keep looking. It's too evxpensive for $1000 bucks, it's wreaked and has issues. more importantly, it's a 2+2, not that that's bad, it's just why do you ned a back seat if you're going to be tracking the car? If you're concerned so much with weight, then this certainly is not a good starting platform.

 

example: My 280Z, I paid 400 bucks for here locally through craigslist. Non-running, I didn't care, I'm swapping the engine. Looked for rust, very little (i'm in NM :P ) yeah i've got to still strip it down for paint and all that, but it's a good base to build from, cheap. Cars are availible. If you found one out here for even $1000 bucks, in decent shape, you could have them send you picts (of all the common rust areas), and you could pay $500 to ship it to phili, that'd still be cheaper than what you'd spend trying to repair that 2+2 in your craigslist ad. So keep looking around, You'll find a good car and the right one for you.

 

You should probably read the S30 Wiki, to familiarize yourself with what models there were, and what came with what. There's a lot of infor on that on here too, just gotta find it.

 

Phar

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My 280z, with a turbo/IC L28, most of the interior intact, coilovers, 16x8 xxr 513's, and both bumpers removed weighs just over 2500lbs without me in it.

 

Hmmm, I thought they were supposed to be roughly 2800 lbs. in intact condition? Are the bumpers that heavy? I know they are ugly as sin...

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Bumpers plus hydraulic bumper mounts are easily 150 lbs (possibly more), depending on what year the vehicle is.

 

My late '74 260 weighs in at 2820 lbs....SBC motor, bumpers removed, Autosports roll bar (VERY beefy), and relatively heavy street wheels/tires. Wheels and tires are an easy and effective way to drop vehicle weight.

Edited by jhm
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I weighed the bumpers at approximately 40-50lbs each, struts were maybe 5 lbs. I still haven't removed the rear duck bill thing and rear bumper struts, so there's maybe another 10lbs to take off involving the bumpers. Also, no spare tire and tool kit. Simple 3" exhaust with a big, fairly quiet muffler. Most of the AC is gone, but the stuff under the dash is all there.

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After seeing some of these pics it makes me sad about those cars but happy with mine. Mine still has the doughnut from the factory in it and a beautiful spare tire bay.

 

Also Cabanaboy, I would not worry about weight too much. It is easier to add HP than to strip weight, and cheaper.

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Question;

 

For Auto-X solo, is there an 'open' class that you can run in? I don't want to build the car to be in a specific class, but I do want to be able to take it to an Auto-X event once a month for some fun. I don't want to build the car and then be disqualified from running it in every class...

Edited by Cabanaboy
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Yup, street mod is pretty open and if it doesn't fit there, X prepared is the other option.

 

 

Excellent.

 

 

So, I may be in luck. The old man has a used GM crate 350 sitting at his place. Not sure of the condition but it had been in a Chevrolet truck with a Reading body on it. He pulled the motor to use the transmission out of it. Not sure how functional it is, I'll have to ask him but it could be the powerplant, and then all I would need is the transmission and the custom axles.

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